This engine has a story. My dad pulled this from his car in high school in 1960. I decided with my son to build it for my car instead of the 350 in it now. 350 runs great but for him to learn to build THE ORIGINAL small block Chevy, is just cool to me, him and his grandfather. As a matter of fact, the last time a teenager wrenched on this engine, it was hid grandfather ! It hasn't run in 53 years and yes we pack rats have kept it all these years ! I am trying to get some pistons from a member here CANUCKTRUCK. It is most likely one of the first blocks cast due to the casting date and was on of the first 3,000 or so engines assembled by the engine pad number. My car (dads car) was the 999th car made in the Flint MI plant, Oct. 3 1954 !
Nice to hear its been in the family for so long.
Good for you guys. Here are some sites for you to get info. Lots of good guys here. The 265 cams have a notch so be advised when buying a replacement. Check out my picturetrail site for pic's of my wagon.
Sounds like you have a handle on the build. I helped my buddy on his 55 SS/P back in the 80's. Fabbed an angle adapter to have the carb lower in the front, don't know if this is relevant today.
bfalfa55 wrote:Thanks everyone, it will be a fun build. My dad is into it too ! I just joined Chevytalk and joined Trifive a bit ago. I have been searching the H.A.M.B. too. I am going to modify the block so it oils like all other small blocks. I did notice though the notch in this cam is really small compared to others I have seen. This going to be built with as much modern stuff as possible but hidden under some old stuff. The challenge, have a mid to low 13 second, light weight, high winding 55 Chevy !
Thanks everyone, it will be a fun build. My dad is into it too ! I just joined Chevytalk and joined Trifive a bit ago. I have been searching the H.A.M.B. too. I am going to modify the block so it oils like all other small blocks. I did notice though the notch in this cam is really small compared to others I have seen. This going to be built with as much modern stuff as possible but hidden under some old stuff. The challenge, have a mid to low 13 second, light weight, high winding 55 Chevy !
Sounds like a good plan brother and all very do able........best of luck with the build..........nice to see another 55 hitting the street.
I,m as cool as Milner , but axeually a bit more like Beckwith
yep, nothing like a high winding, small cube small block
'69 bel air 454 M20
Who says you need CUBIC INCHES to go fast. Here is a list of SS class record holders, check out SS/OA and SS/PA, 56 Chev, 265+
It is actually where the distributor goes in the oil galley but it sticks way up. Here is a pic. Look at the back side of the oil galley. Were only the 265's like this or were some of the 283's like that too ? I am betting I will be fine as long as I don't clear it away too much. There is no place in that tube shape that the dist. comes in contact with. I wonder if it was there for the purpose of helping with oiling because the 265 has it's own unique oiling.
I had a 69 350 that had the dis't tower almost to the top of the block. I gave a buddy for his 69 Camaro.
Taking apart the heads so I can clean them up and start porting. Went to my dads to get the spring compressor and burrs. Was thinking about carb/manifold I should run. I was going to use my Torker and 650 holley I have but I forgot this was on the shelf. Should I talk my dad out of it ? Before he retired a guy gave it to him because he said it needed a good home. It has never been put on an engine ! It is the better one with the pre-marked bosses for fuel injectors.
A little update. Have started some porting work. I now have the Spider (retainer plate) and Dog Bones (lifter retainers) ! Got them form a member that Poncho62 is a member of (The World of DuckusCrapus) for the whopping price of shipping, $8.75 ! If I don't watch it, I'm going to spend all my money ! LOL ! I will have alomst NO material to remove from the 265 to make the dog bones fit because of how the 265 is cast. Some small block require removing alot of casting to get them to work. I have some very small spots to fltten out for 7 of htem. The lifter area for#8 cyl. has the large tube shape in the casting that all the early blocks had and I guess some of the first 350's had it too. Bottom left of the pic is the one that will require the most work but still won't be alot.
Here is a cam card from a 350 build in a Camaro from the NastyZ28 site. The max lift for this setup is .530. I will be just under .500.
-- Edited by bfalfa55 on Tuesday 10th of December 2013 08:03:06 PM
Well, here it is ! For the grand total of $100 I bought a set of staggered hole valve covers and this 56 265 short block. It is align honed, threaded plugs in the oil passages and fully balanced with what appears to be forged dome pistons ! No clue when it was used. It obviously sat on the engine stand for a long time by the filth on it but it turns over with ease. It was run so little that I can still see the emery paper marks on the cylinder walls to help seat the rings. My bro and I wiped the very thin layer of soot off the piston with a paper towel. There is no ridge in the walls. Other than what can be seen, the previous owner knows nothing about it as it was given to him. The only issue it might have is #7 piston might have a crack in the side of it. How much of a score is this ?
A big SCORE! Good find,well done.
Reality; A test of Mind and Spirit And BODY. (`-`)
Some looking over it closely, They are JE Pistons and can't be very old as this engine might have been run one season and tore down due to the most likely cracked #7 piston. These look to be newer pistons and not something vintage. JE Pistons is less than an hour away so this may still be a piston they make or have blanks. Here is a shot of the bottom end.
"Good cowgirls keep their calves together"
#7 is definitely cracked ! It's scored up too but the cylinder wall doesn't have the same marks, so I have to guess these pistons were used before. JE Pistons said the don't have many blanks in a 3.75 diameter but if I get them some dimensions and cc measurements they can hook me up. He said a whole set of these will cost $950 and a minimum run is 2 pistons at cost of $300. Not cheap but we all knew it wouldn't be cheap ! I am still ahead of the game, it's a little bummer but that's how it goes. Unless I can find one to replace it. Is it even remotely possible to repair a crack like this ? It doesn't go to the oil ring groove, only in the skirt about 1.25 inches.