WTD: 2 Barrel Carb

dodgy canuck · MILTON, ONT

WTD: 2 Barrel Carb

fatstax · COBOURG, ONT

i have a few i know are good, but ur in milton, kind of far away

Gazoo · BADEN, ONT

If you fellows can sort this out, I'll be driving through Cobourg this Friday (Sept.13), and then again on Sunday on my way back to Kitchener. I'd be more then happy to pick up and deliver.

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

Just read thru posts and no wear do you say what you have now. which generation 194 do you have I'm assuming 3 but it could be 1st . 3rd gen came with a mono jet Rochester b or BC 2 bolt. yes heat is required but what choke do you have ?A 390 holly 4 barrel would require an offenhouser or Clifford intake the adapter you have to a two barrel is more then likely for a Rochester 2GC(?) There are several options for different carbs but carter would be your best bet Again depending what you have now . list of carter replacements. tom langdon also sells holly webber replacements but they all so come with issues.list is from carb king info at bottom of list

CarterYF carburetors produced for use on Chevrolet

756s – 216 engine aftermarket 1937~1952
787s – 216 engine aftermarket 1937~1952
788s – 235 engine aftermarket 1950~1952
789s – 235 engine aftermarket 1950~1952
890s – 235 engine aftermarket manual choke (number assigned, no production)
891s – 235 engine aftermarket auto choke (number assigned, no production)
964s – 216 engine aftermarket manual choke 1937~1952
965s – 216 engine aftermarket auto choke 1937~1952
966s – 235 engine aftermarket auto choke 1950~1952
967s – 235 engine aftermarket manual choke 1950~1952
2008s – 216 engine aftermarket 1937~1952
2046s – 206 engine aftermarket 1932~1936
2100s – 235 engine aftermarket manual choke 1953~1956
2101s – 235 engine aftermarket auto choke 1953~1956
2104s – 261 engine aftermarket (number assigned, no production)
3055s – aftermarket (number assigned, no production)
3211s – 235 engine aftermarket 1957~1962
3379s – 153 engine original equipment manual trans 1962~1966
3402s – 153 engine original equipment auto trans 1962~1966
3711s – 194 engine aftermarket 1962
3760s – 230 engine (number assigned, no production)
3770s – 230 engine (taxi) original equipment auto transmission 1964~1965
3771s – 230 engine (taxi) original equipment manual trans 1964~1965
3772s – 194 engine auto transmission (number assigned, no production) 1964
3773s – 194 engine manual trans (number assigned, no production) 1964
3821s – 194 engine (van) original equipment 1964
3946s – 194 engine aftermarket 1964~1965
3946s – 230 engine aftermarket 1964~1965
3975s – 230 engine (van) original equipment manual trans 1965
3976s – 230 engine (van) original equipment auto trans 1965
4043s – 194 engine (van) original equipment manual trans 1966
4043s – 230 engine (van) original equipment manual trans 1966
4044s – 194 engine (van) original equipment auto trans 1966
4044s – 230 engine (van) original equipment auto trans 1966
4048s – 230 engine (van) aftermarket experimental 1963~1966
4072s – 194 engine original equipment auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4072s – 230 engine original equipment auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4073s – 194 engine original equipment manual trans CALIF smog 1966
4073s – 230 engine original equipment manual trans CALIF smog 1966
4080s – 194 engine original equipment (pass) auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4080s – 230 engine original equipment (pass) auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4080s – 250 engine original equipment (pass) auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4085s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1966
4085s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1966
4086s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4086s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4145s – 194 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans 1965~1966
4145s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans 1965~1966
4202s – 250 engine (taxi) original equipment auto trans 1966
4203s – 250 engine (taxi) original equipment manual trans 1966
4278s – (export to India)
4339s – 194 engine aftermarket 1963~1967
4339s – 230 engine aftermarket 1963~1967
4339s – 250 engine aftermarket 1963~1967
4367s – 230 engine original equipment manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4367s – 250 engine original equipment manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4368s – 194 engine original equipment auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4368s – 230 engine original equipment auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4368s – 250 engine original equipment auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4369s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4369s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4370s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4370s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4371s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4371s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4371s – 292 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4372s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4373s – 153 engine aftermarket manual trans 1963~1967
4374s – 153 engine aftermarket auto trans 1963~1967
4375s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans 1967
4375s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans 1967
4376s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans 1967
4376s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans 1967
4377s – 250 engine original equipment (taxi) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4378s – 250 engine original equipment (taxi) auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4387s – 194 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4480s – 230 engine aftermarket (all Federal) 1963~1967
4480s – 250 engine aftermarket (all Federal) 1963~1967
4492s – 194 engine aftermarket 1962
6213s – number assigned no production

Have fun!

Jon.

__________________
Good carburetion is fuelish hot air!

The Carburetor Shop of Missouri 573-392-7378 (9-4 M-Tues CT)

-- Edited by slim on Thursday 12th of September 2013 01:51:51 AM

RacerRick · TORONTO, ONT

What base do you need? Small 4 bolt rochester or large 4 bolt rochester? Or do you have a funky aftermarket intake with 3 bolt carbs?

I think I have a small base rochester still that ran excellent on a ford straight 6.

dodgy canuck · MILTON, ONT

RacerRick,

I do need the smaller bolt pattern. Where are you (I know it says Toronto, but the GTA is pretty big!)?

I suppose I should explain what I am doing...

I am having a cold engine drivability problem. After cold start and letting the engine run on mid-idle for a few minutes the engine stalls when putting it into gear. It sounds and feels like it bogs down and stalls. Similar to what happens when you slowly let a clutch out without giving it gas... loads the engine. After about 5 minutes of drive time, the problem goes away (mostly... sometimes it will still do it, but it is random).
I have set the timing and gapped the plugs. Also richened the idle mixture. It is better, but still does it.
It has been suggested that I try a different carb, but I do not have another that will fit my engine.
194ci inline 6 with powerglide. 1965 Nova.

I bought a carb adapter to go from 1 barrel manifold to a 2 barrel carb, but it does not fit the Holley 500cfm that I have.

I'm all ears for any other suggestions!

sasquatch · NORTH BAY, ONT

The problem sounds like the carb is icing up in the venturi. This can be cured by getting some exhaust manifold heat into the carb base.

Memory is pretty feeble, but isn't there a heat riser valve in the exhaust manifold, or do you have headers on it?

janies dirty 37 · SOUTH RIVER, ONT

Nice try Ray!! There is nothing Feeble about your mind/memory.

Janice

dodgy canuck · MILTON, ONT

The engine is pretty much orig! The exhause manifold is bolted to the intake and there is a heat riser inside the exhaust... It is one of those spring loaded contraptions, but the spring is broken so it is always in the open position.

I thought it was a heat problem, but it will do it when the engine has been running for 30 minutes, too. Though, not as often.

sasquatch · NORTH BAY, ONT

The broken spring is the problem , sure sounds like it.

Not sure nowdays where to get the spring, years back i couldn't find one, so scoured the wrecking yard here untill i found a good one.
The inline spring is the only one that will work without some modification. The V8 springs are different.

One other point is,,, The flapper up inside the manifold that closes off and directs heat to the intake, i have seen them broke off, the rod slides through them and they are spot welded onto the rod. (Then they spin on the rod, won't close properly. ) -Just spot weld it again, but gotta remove the manifold to get at it.

Wondering if "Bills Truck Shop" would possibly have the spring you need, worth a call.
That carb and setup is super reliable that you already have, nothing wrong with it with the proper heat to the carb base.
Try wiring the valve shut, then drive it and see if it still stalls etc.

dodgy canuck · MILTON, ONT

That flap is pretty tight in there, so I don't think that it is moving on its own. I referenced it to another manifold I have to make sure the position is right. I will tripple check that, though!

sasquatch · NORTH BAY, ONT

Very common for the shaft to get seized up, if it is tough to turn, keep soaking it with penetrating oil and carefully try to keep working it loose bit by bit. Tap the ends of the shaft with a hammer.(Without mushrooming the end.)

fatstax · COBOURG, ONT

Carburetor icing occurs when there is humid air, and the temperature drop in the venturi causes the water vapor to freeze.

this from wiki, so i doubt its your carb. the heat riser will combat this problem as this is why they have them. i think fuel problems like too rich can also contribute to this problem

dodgy canuck · MILTON, ONT

When I gapped the plugs, they were all pretty dry. That was the reason for richening the idle mixture. Seemed to help a bit, but holy man! Do my eyes ever burn standing behind it! Seems to be way too rich, but I only added a half turn on the screw.

Colder air temp does make it worse, but then, it still did it today too!

sasquatch · NORTH BAY, ONT

Not only colder air, but high humidity will also ice it up without the heat onto the carb base.
Thinking if you do install a 2 barrel carb, your'e STILL going to have the cold carb base, AND i,m sure the great gas mileage those 194's have, will be lost. (Overcarbed) , the smallest Rochester 2 barrel that i am aware of is the 2GC, and i think it is about 350 CFM, too much for the 194 cam.
Fix the heat riser, and get great mileage, be able to still use the stock air breather.

dodgy canuck · MILTON, ONT

I will look into the heat riser again!
With the stock air cleaner... There is no heat pipe that picks up hot air from the exhaust manifold. Not even an opening for it! Should I put one in? I can modify the air cleaner to make that happen.

sasquatch · NORTH BAY, ONT

Fix the heat riser and you don't need anything else.

hemi43 · ONTARIO

Gazoo wrote:
If you fellows can sort this out, I'll be driving through Cobourg this Friday (Sept.13), and then again on Sunday on my way back to Kitchener. I'd be more then happy to pick up and deliver.

If you got time for a cold one on your way through, PM me !! 2 minutes from the 401

dodgy canuck · MILTON, ONT

The carb is a rochester BV with automatic choke. Everything is original so far as I can tell! The only upgrade that has been done is a pertronix kit.

I'm sure I had the same carb on my last inline and I have never had a problem. Even with winter driving. The heat riser wasn't even there on one of the inlines I drove.

All the same, I will fix the riser and see where it gets me!

Gazoo · BADEN, ONT

hemi43 wrote:
Gazoo wrote:
If you fellows can sort this out, I'll be driving through Cobourg this Friday (Sept.13), and then again on Sunday on my way back to Kitchener. I'd be more then happy to pick up and deliver.
If you got time for a cold one on your way through, PM me !! 2 minutes from the 401

I'm not quite sure how that's going to help "Dodgy canuck's" carb problem though, but you always seem to have some good advice, so I'm willing to give it a shot.

sasquatch · NORTH BAY, ONT

Another posting question gone way off track!

Gazoo · BADEN, ONT

sasquatch wrote:
Another posting question gone way off track!

I would say so, considering it's posted in the "Swap meet" area and he was originally looking for a carb.

-- Edited by Gazoo on Thursday 12th of September 2013 05:49:41 PM

Kent · KITCHENER. ONT

Not sure what Yur looking for, but there's a pick & pull out by Rockwood (that I spend hours wandering) that has about 1000+ cars, maybe worth the drive. If interested email me at h.kentr@sympatico.ca

dodgy canuck · MILTON, ONT

Is that place McLean's?

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

If your still looking for a 2 barrel-stolen from another post

JPB

AYLMER, ONT

Status: Offline

Posts: 707

Date: 7 days ago

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Found it!

2G -1 1/4 flange,1 7/16 throttle bore, 1 3/32 venturi 278 cfm

2G - 1 1/2 flange,1 11/16 throttle bore, 1 3/16 venturi 352 cfm

1 1/4 venturi 381 cfm

1 5/16 venturi 423 cfm

1 3/8 venturi 435 cfm larger venturi for larger displacement engines? smile

Kent · KITCHENER. ONT

Ya, McLeans

dodgy canuck · MILTON, ONT

I have also spent quite a lot of time in that yard!

Gwillyville Kid · BRADFORD, ONT

Don't know if you sorted out problem but GM used to make a spacer with a heated grid in it that fit between the carb, and intake manifold for 2.0 or 2.5L 4 cylinder Cavalier, Chevette etc. It was for a single barrel carburetor. I believe it was called an atomizer, but maybe not. 1 or 2 of these might warm the fuel/air mixture enough to overcome problem. Fix the heat riser. It's there for a reason, to warm up the air/fuel mixture when required.

IF you can find an 70's-80's Inline 6 (250/292) G series van there might be a similar atomizer on it. I really doubt the general sells them anymore, but Dorman or Blue Streak might.

While you are doing all this consider installing an electric choke as well. Ambient temperature does not need to be below freezing for choke to work effectively. Look for a carb with choke housing on choke flap shaft.

It's all about DRIVEABILITY!

the Kid

fatchuk · ST MARYS, ONTARIO

When I gapped the plugs, they were all pretty dry. That was the reason for richening the idle mixture. Seemed to help a bit, but holy man! Do my eyes ever burn standing behind it! Seems to be way too rich, but I only added a half turn on the screw.

I am a little confused.. confuse whats new... Plugs should be dry if the engine was running before you pulled the plugs.. I have always found when the exhaust is burning my eyes it's because it's way to lean..hot hi nox..and a lean burn will cause a flat spot or hesitation especially on cold to not up to operating temp..and the heat-riser should be working but as long as it's wide open with a warm engine it should not be causing A problem..If it's burning your eyes I would be starting the mixture settings from scratch again and setting them with a vacuum gage..It is always hard to diagnos and give advice in a paragraph with never having seen, heard or experienced the problem..So this is just a suggestion..