That is almost up to date with the build. The rad and grille are on and I should have the box on this week. There are a million little things I skipped. Don't be shy to criticize. My first build and I have a ton to learn.
OK I guess I will ask.Tom what is the story on the front suspenson.How did you come up with the idea.What is the plan for shocks,if necessary,or torson bars,I find this set up very interesting and clean.Reminds me of the old eliptic style on early cars and buggies,Not that I was there of course. Ed
I know nothing about frames but I do know the old 12 valve has a lot of torque so as you are building it might be a good idea to have a licenced mechanic or frame guy to look things over in case you need an inspection in the future,he might see things that need to be done a certain way and it would be easy to change now before you get it done. Looks like your having fun,good on ya!
It does look interesting and cool build ..Not being critical but I have big concerns about that front end.. as a licensed safety inspector I could not safety that front end as it is in the picture ..that to me is totally unsafe I look forward to see what the final front suspension is supposed to be ...and I don't think a panhard is going to make it any safer..Looking forward to see what you have in mind to make that front end more safer..looks cool and simple but it is not safe..
Nice build Tom. Who did you get to do the driveshaft? I got to watch Dave in Stittsville when he shortened the shaft in my 57, I am going to do my shaft on the HenryJ.
I'm taking it you got the idea from the red car. only difference is thats a front wheel drive and the diff and drive shafts are tyeing the frame to the front end . you have enough room in front of the engine to triangulate the axle between the spring perch and tie it back to the frame. much like a ford wishbone its impossible to bind the axle doing it this way
-- Edited by slim on Tuesday 22nd of October 2013 06:16:17 AM
I was thinking of going with airbags. Then I thought its way to much extra stuff to worry about and I want to keep it simple. I thought leaf springs would be the most simple so copied the idea for the front suspension off old race cars. Its not an exact copy though. There is more work to be done on the front end. Nothing is locating the front end other than friction for now. When its done the U bolts will only be clamping the springs. The springs will be inside a channel to locate them. I am worried I won't be able to make any adjustments once its set so I want it to be perfect. I know I will be taking this thing completely apart at a few more times so I am in no rush to make it perfect just yet. I was thinking about the strength of the leaf springs for lateral movement from their original setup to how I have them setup. They are big springs at 2.5" wide and each one is 5/8" thick at the centre. Originally there was 25" from the eye to the closest U-bolt on the axle. How I have them there is 19" from the front U-bolt on the frame to the eye. I am thinking that there is enough strength in the springs to locate the axle if I can get them set on the frame properly.
I got advice for the frame from a guy in Alberta. He's got a cummins with 2 turbos making scary torque on a 2x3x.250 frame and he cautioned me on how dangerous it could be. I bumped mine up to 2x4x.250 and I want to give it some more thought and get some advice to add bracing that really adds strength. I definitely don't want to build something that isn't safe.
I am glad you guys don't hesitate to point out problems and ask questions.
The guy who did my drive shaft is Gord McCellen out by Carleton Place.
I like the way that front end looks. I was looking at the Red Car in the picture, it looks like there is an arm going from the front of the frame to the axle. You can only see it on the right side of the picture. On the left side it looks like the arm would be attached to a moving piece that is attached to the frame. It be nice if you could find move pictures of that car.
I have seen quarter eliptical front suspensions before, and usually the lower link is not a spring, but a bar. It basically is a reversed leaf-link suspension, requires a panhard or watts link, and cross steer to help get rid of bump steer which always happens on a quarter eliptical setup.
How that is currently designed, your caster is going to change radically going over bumps because the upper and lower springs will both flex and not the same amount, which will cause the axle to rotate. Depending on which way it rotates, you might have the handling of a shopping car with a bad wheel going over bumps. This is why they usually put the solid bar as the lower link. It should be the same length as the flexible portion of the leaf so they have as similar an arc of motion as possible to prevent caster changes.
I like the way that front end looks. I was looking at the Red Car in the picture, it looks like there is an arm going from the front of the frame to the axle. You can only see it on the right side of the picture. On the left side it looks like the arm would be attached to a moving piece that is attached to the frame. It be nice if you could find move pictures of that car.
Friction shock to stop wheel bounce or rebound . Your wheel is like a basket ball once you start it bouncing it continue's
adding the shock is like trying to bounce the same ball under water. As I said earlier the red car is front wheel drive its the drive shaft securing the axle to the frame
Thanks for posting those pictures. These setups make me feel better about mine. I understand that just because someone built these it doesn't mean they are right and I am not saying mine is right. I understand that split wishbones will cause caster to change as the suspension cycles but because they are so long it doesn't change by much. I don't think my caster will be changing has drastically with two leaf springs vs one leaf and one solid link. I agree that they will have different spring rates but they are the same size and shape so I can't see why they wouldn't move in the same arc. I will look into it more closely and do some tests in the garage just to be sure and figure out exactly what my caster angle is. In the second picture it looks like he might be able to make adjustments if those ends are threaded.
