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FOREST, ONT

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1966 GMC 4X4 Build
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Hello Everyone. I bought this truck about 4 years. I was 25 and wanted to start my first project. It's a 1966 GMC 4X4. Not an original 4x4.
 100_3854.JPG100_3855.JPG

It has a 327, turbo 350, 3/4 ton axles and 38 x 14.5 inch super swamper tsl tires. I drove it for 1 summer. It was kind of scary. The steering and suspension were worn out. The more I looked at the truck the more things I found wrong. I thought it just needed cab corners and rockers, I was wrong. It turns out that when your floor starts to look bad lay snow and ice shield down on it (the stuff you roll under the first rows of shingles). When I took out the carpet that was screwed down and pulled out the snow and ice, parts of the floor came too. Awesome I said to myself and a lot more things were said in the garage that night.100_3895.JPG100_3898.JPG100_3897.JPG

This was the start. Didn't think to take pictures until I cut the floor out.

100_3911.JPG100_3914.JPG100_3920.JPG

The floor, bottom of the A pillar and inner rocker fixed. 100_3917.JPG100_3921.JPG

Cab corner almost done. I learned a lot doing the drivers side first. I should have started on the passenger side so the drivers side would have looked better. I also learned to look at old cars and trucks a lot closer before you buy them. Now for the other side. 

100_3901.JPG100_3904.JPG 100_3926.JPG

Believe it or not, this side was in better shape.100_3979.JPG100_3977.JPG100_3978.JPG100_3980.JPG

Now that that's done. You can see that the cab's off and the rest of the body. This bring us to now. It's taking way longer then I thought but 2 kids and a move later I'm starting to make progress. The whole plan in the beginning was to put a Cummins and a 5 speed in. Now it's a frame swap.100_3974.JPG100_3973.JPG 

1994 Dodge 3/4ton 4x4 the donor. First thing I've got to do. Shorten this frame 19". I'm going to take it out of this section. Picture below.

100_3975.JPG

My plan is to take out the crossmember, drill and possibly beat out the front rear shackle mount rivets, pull the back section of the frame out, and cut 19" off the center section of frame. These frames are 3 pieces attached together. Then I need to figure out how I will slide the back, back into the center. After this is done, I will drill new holes and bolt the shackle mount and frames together with grade 8 bolts. I know it seems like a lot of work when I could just cut it and weld it back together. But when I laid out the 45 degree cuts it didn't workout right. The shackle mount was in the way or I was in the down slop of the frame. This is where I'm at today. Let me know what you think of the frame shortening plans. Thank you. 

 

 

 



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COBOURG, ONT

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the 60-66 gmc's have to be hands down my favorite 4x4. are you using the newer axles? sorry no opinion on the frame snip. good luck, take lots of pics.

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FOREST, ONT

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Yes. It's going to have all Dodge drive train. The old frame and axles were setup very crudely.

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DUNDAS, ONT

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Hard to comment with out knowing what you have in mind . I also have no idea what the track width is on ether truck. If your going for the monster truck look it really doesn't matter but if your trying to drop it or match original ride hight then it gets complicated. I'm pretty sure a 93 frame will be heat treated ( hardened) so bolting it is your safest bet. Little more detail what your plans are would help



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MAGNETAWAN, ONT

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I saw an episode on Trucks where Stacy shortened a frame by cutting the centre section out in a z ,,,,just the show you should see,
Nice project too.....I always wanted a truck like that but settled with a 90 chevy stepside.

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NORTH BAY, ONT

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Great interesting follow along build!! Thanks for the very clear pics, and good work. My son is just going through the same thing on his plow truck. Same floor pan conditions, and a rear frame section swap. On the drivers side he had to cut out right up above the left front cab mount. The donor truck he has had excellent floor pans, and also frame.

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SARNIA, ONT

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Dang Jeff, I wan't a diesel now.  I like the idea of the chassis swap.  Shorten the frame up and stick to the full 1994 running gear to keep it easy to maintain and to purchase parts.  Where did you pick up the Dodge chassis?

You have completed a ton of work on the cab.  I don't know how you do it with the two toddlers.  I can barely get out in the garage with an eight and twelve year old!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  I like your idea of grinding down the rivet heads and drifting them out.  I always use my pneumatic chisel with the appropriate drift insert.  Dodge must use the three piece frames to run all series of  trucks, short box, quad cabs, etc........   Looks like an easy frame shortening exercise with that center frame section.  How are you going to keep it all true when you shorten the frame?  You need my Blackhawk frame machine for a few months.  Keep us posted with the pic's, Rhys.   

 



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FOREST, ONT

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Rustynuts- I saw that episode. I don't have enough frame to cut it that way either.

Slim- I want the truck to look like it did when I bought it. Just done safely and correctly. It was a death trap the way it was before. The 38's are a little much. I'd be happy with 35's. 

1966 GMC3.jpg

Rhys- The dodge was a farm truck I bought from a buddy. I should have bought a new cab, it would have saved a lot of time. There's still things that have to be fixed on it but I was tired of working on it. That's when short cuts begin so I moved to the frame. All my work happens between 9pm and 1am or nothing would happen on it. I took the crossmember out. The air hammer wouldn't move the rivets at all. It took a 3lbs hammer and a big punch to get them out. Not looking forward to beating out the next 8. The way the frame slides together, I think it won't be to hard to get it straight again. I'm going to mark out some points on the frame and use them as reference points. I will measure them first, make sure they're square, get the frame apart, cut off the 19", get it back together and then measure it all again using the same reference makes. The measurements will be different numbers but as long as it measures square it should be good. It's not like I cut a car down the center from front to back and added 5". This should look easy to you. LOL.   



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WELLESLEY, ONT

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Ohhh MAN... that's cool. You make it and the cummins'll shake it! definitely following your build, looking forward to more updates.



-- Edited by BAMBAM on Sunday 3rd of November 2013 08:40:46 AM

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OTTAWA, ONT

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That is awesome. Very nice bodywork.

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FOREST, ONT

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Got the Frame apart. Almost have the frame all wirebrushed where it will be going back together. After the new holes are laid out and drilled, I am going to paint the frame and shackle mounts where they all sandwich together. I was going to use POR 15. Does anyone know of or recommend something else or better?

 

100_3983.JPG100_3984.JPG

        



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ONTARIO

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POR-15 will work great on the rusty areas, but will fail over time if it's applied over new or untreated metal.

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FOREST, ONT

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The frame is back together. Used 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts. I looked up the torque for the bolts in the machinist hand book and it said 96 ftlbs. Does that sound right? 

Set the cab on the frame. Now I have to figure out where to put the cab mounts.  

100_3989.JPG100_3991.JPG100_3996.JPG



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DUNDAS, ONT

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RumblingBolts wrote:

The frame is back together. Used 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts. I looked up the torque for the bolts in the machinist hand book and it said 96 ftlbs. Does that sound right? 

Set the cab on the frame. Now I have to figure out where to put the cab mounts.  

 


 You will be close. Course , fine, plain , plated , dry, wet/with what ,will all make a difference along with the manufactures yield strength. 96  will do the job



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SARNIA, ONT

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        Millwright Tight, that's how tight!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



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FOREST, ONT

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Thanks Slim.
That's funny Rhys. I was working at GreenField a couple years ago and this fella from Alabama said that to us a bunch of times. Not really the answer I was looking for when working on ESV's.

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BARRIE, ONTARIO

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That truck is looking good!

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BRANT COUNTY, ONT

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Nice project and work. Don't ya just love RUST??!!

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FOREST, ONT

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This is my first project. All that rust has taught me a lot. Now I know what to look for the next time I buy a project.

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DORCHESTER, ONT

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Rust can be such a bee-atch. You're doing a fine job of salvaging that beast!

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NORTH BAY, ONT

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Nice work. Coincidence that there are at least three of those trucks in this area that look very similar, two are the same blue, the other is going to be a stock GM tan colour.

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ELORA, ONT

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hemi43 wrote:

POR-15 will work great on the rusty areas, but will fail over time if it's applied over new or untreated metal.


 Absolutely correct. Sandblast those areas first so there is adhesion, otherwise it peels off in sheets. POR = Paint Over Rust



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FOREST, ONT

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Rough mock up. Still got to move the cab back and the box forward a little maybe. Need to close the gap between the cab and box. The gap is 3" and I would like it to be 1" I think. Then I can start building the cab mounts.

 

 

66.png



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DUNDAS, ONT

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box looks about right . Cab needs to come back

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FOREST, ONT

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Guess it's been awhile since I posted anything on here. It's been a very busy year. Got a bit done on the truck. The box is mounted and the cab is mounted. Now I'm starting to work on moving the engine back. It's to far forward. I can't get the rad cradle on. I think I'm going to need to move it back about 8".

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PORTLAND, ONT

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Good to have you back -- It's a great looking project and I like the detail you are going to -- It will pay off in time -- Keep up the good work and keep us posted -- All the Best -- LATER -- DON / FLEET 51

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CLINTON, ONT

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Like  thumbsup.gif



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COBOURG, ONT

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had a good buddy when i sailed on the west coast who had a 64 gmc short box on 35, even had a 327. the thing was awesome. i had thought of lifting my truck and turning it into a 4x4 but i already have a jeep and the 55 will never see snow. need pics of the progress.

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AYLMER, ONT

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2X like



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INGERSOLL, ONT

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I know I'm probably too late but I've found to remove rivets I cut the heads off with a torch, heat up the rest of the rivet and then they pop right out with an air hammer. If you're careful with the torch they come out clean. Some come out easy without too much heat, others need a little more. In tough spots or on thin brackets I drill them out.

Nice looking build. I've seen that episode of trucks with the frame shorten, he makes it look so easy. There is a few guys who've done it on the 67-72chevytrucks forum as well.

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FOREST, ONT

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Some pictures of the box and cab mounts.

untitled9.png

untitled6.png

untitled8.png

untitled7.png



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FOREST, ONT

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Thanks for the encouragement everyone. I got frustrated a month ago because I don't have a lot of time to work on the truck. Having a young family and working a lot and long hours doesn't leave much time for my toys. Family always comes first and I would never want to change that. I put it for sale on kijiji. Then got some time to work on it again and decided not to sell it. My 4 year old son also help change my mine. When he start to cry, when I told him I was going to sell it. He told me he wants me to finish my "monster truck so we can drive over a car". So work continues slow and not so steady.

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FOREST, ONT

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IR Mechanik I will remember that if I do it again someday. Drill out rivets sucks.
All those show make everything look so easy. Just do this and that they say. They don't tell you about the other people that work on the truck or all the freebies and nice tools they have access to. Working by yourself, with basic tools and learning on the way makes things take a bit longer.

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COBOURG, ONT

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i used to grind off the head and beat it out with a drift and a big friggin hammer. worked great.

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FOREST, ONT

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Took the front clip and cab back off to pull the engine, trans and transfer case out. Got the engine, trans and transfer case out now. Tried to lift it with 1 engine hoist. That was a bit sketchy so I use two. Tandem lift by myself not the easiest but I got it done. The red hoist is not the greatest but it did the trick.

 

engine1.png engine3.png

engine4.pngengine6.png

Now I have to cut the engine mounts off the frame and move them back 8". To get them straight I was thinking of cutting a square tube to bolt between the mounts. I think this should hold them in the right place when I weld them in. Does this sound like a good plan or is there a better way? Then I have to move that transmission cross member back. Looked like an easy job until I got under and really looked. The mount is tapered out from top to bottom about a 1/2 inch. The inside frame is stamped to match. Just some more work for me.

frame1.png  



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MISSISSAUGA, ONT

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Great project, good to see someone else also having enough patiency for some small rust repairs...

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FOREST, ONT

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Got the engine mounts cut out and moved back 8". Thanks Builderrhys for the advice. Got the frame boxed in to move the trans mount back. Everything is welded in now and the engine and trans are back in. I was happy they went in no problem. Guess I measured everything right. Next I'll have to take off the turbo. Then cut out part of the firewall and put the cab back on.   

 

enginemounts.pngenginemounts2.pngenginemounts3.pngframe3.png

I know I'm not the best vertical welder. Someone told me once that it only has to be a few degrees off 90 to not be a vertical anymore. So this was my solution and it seemed to work. I think I got the angle down to about 65 or 70 degrees.

mountswelding.pngmountswelding2.png



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CLINTON, ONT

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Holy ambition    great work    I have to go have a nap after seeing all that work



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PORT ROWAN, ONT

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WOW- And I thought my truck project was ambitious! Keep up the good work and do what your son says. Do you still want to get rid of the big tires?

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FOREST, ONT

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Hotrod-steve I am going to keep the big tires now. The way the body went on the frame it needs the 38s. 35s will look to small.

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FOREST, ONT

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Well haven't posted in awhile. Lots has change on the build. 

66gmc17.jpeg66gmc18.jpeg

The cab didn't fit with the engine moved back.

66gmc.jpeg66gmc2.jpeg

66gmc3.jpeg

Fits now.

66gmc4.jpeg66gmc5.jpeg66gmc6.jpeg

Closed up. It fit good.

 

 



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FOREST, ONT

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Bought a bead roller. Welded some extra supports on the back. Watched a couple youtube videos on how to use it. Started working on the back of the cab.

beadroller.jpeg

66gmc7.jpeg

66gmc13.jpeg66gmc11.jpeg

66gmc10.jpeg66gmc9.jpeg66gmc14.jpeg66gmc15.jpeg66gmc16.jpeg

Turned out not bad for my first time.

 



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FOREST, ONT

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Now I don't have more pictures. I put the 66 back together. A fella came by a couple years back and bought some parts. I show him the truck and he made me an offer. I turned it down. But now a couple years later and the project going much slower than I thought. I decided to sell it. Found the number to the guy that made me the offer a couple years ago. He was still interested. He came down we worked out a deal and he bought the truck and all the parts I had. That was in the spring.

With the big truck gone and a pocket of cash, I did what every car guy would do. Started looking for a new project. One that was different and not so much work. Something that I could get on the road this summer and something I could get the wife and kids in. I knew I want a car pre 59. I started looking on kijiji and craigslist. I was looking for an old hot rod or lead sled style car. One that was an old build that needed some work. I found a few on Craigslist but just couldn't get there in time. But then kijiji came through with just what I was looking for. Only problem was I didn't have that much money. So I watch the ad for 5 weeks figuring the price would drop and it didn't. So I call anyway. I ended up talking the guy down and this is what I got.

 

merc2.jpg

1952 Mercury

Time to start a new Post.



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ONTARIO

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Nice!

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WELLESLEY, ONT

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Bolts...   you did a hell of a nice job on that cab with that bead roller.  Doesn't look like you'll be needing it now, the new car looks finished to me.



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CLINTON, ONT

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RumblingBolts wrote:

Now I don't have more pictures. I put the 66 back together. A fella came by a couple years back and bought some parts. I show him the truck and he made me an offer. I turned it down. But now a couple years later and the project going much slower than I thought. I decided to sell it. Found the number to the guy that made me the offer a couple years ago. He was still interested. He came down we worked out a deal and he bought the truck and all the parts I had. That was in the spring.

With the big truck gone and a pocket of cash, I did what every car guy would do. Started looking for a new project. One that was different and not so much work. Something that I could get on the road this summer and something I could get the wife and kids in. I knew I want a car pre 59. I started looking on kijiji and craigslist. I was looking for an old hot rod or lead sled style car. One that was an old build that needed some work. I found a few on Craigslist but just couldn't get there in time. But then kijiji came through with just what I was looking for. Only problem was I didn't have that much money. So I watch the ad for 5 weeks figuring the price would drop and it didn't. So I call anyway. I ended up talking the guy down and this is what I got.

 

merc2.jpg

1952 Mercury

Time to start a new Post.


       Awesome .    good for you . you did a great job on the truck .  glad you went with this .  Its sweet . 



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FOREST, ONT

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Thanks guys. I am way happier with this car. The pictures make it look a lot better than it is. But it is in good shape. I learned a lot working on that big truck and am excited to learn more on this car. I will start a new post soon.

BamBam that was the first time I used a bead roller. A couple youtube videos and I went to work. Made the first piece with the bead on the wrong side. After that everything seemed to workout.

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