I need someone to come to Schomberg and help wire my 47 Merc 2 ton basically from scratch. It's a pretty simple vehicle. No computers to worry about. But I'm not knowlegable on relays and wire guages etc.
Any takers? I would pay you with money, beer, parts, home furnishings ( I have a store) etc.
Cant be of any physical help to you......but....Are you using an aftermarket wiring kit|?.. They are supposed to make things pretty simple.
What I did with my 51 (this was before wiring kits were widely available) was carefully take the whole wiring harness out of my donor vehicle (76 Nova) and labeling everything. Then starting at the fuse box, transplanted it into the truck. Worked out well. I did find a Nova wiring diagram for a few little problems.
There are some very good kits on the market that are simple to install-and not a lot of money compared to the investment you could loose to an electrical fire . They are well engineered for even a novice to install and the better ones usually come with a 1-800 help line...just a thought. I have used a couple different brands and all well worth every penny.
I just finished doing the 52 Pontiac. I used a " E-Z" wiring kit, 18 cicuit, with GM strg. column. Looked "intiminating" at first, followed the instructions,[thats hard for a guy to do] soldered all the connections while doing it, all wires were clearly labled!! Put the juice to it, & everything worked the way it should.
__________________
I can only please one person a day, Today is not your day!!Tomorrow doesn't look good either !!!!
Roger I avoided posting earlier. I would love to help with your wiring as I'm an electronics tech so it's right down my alley. Problem is I'm looking after an ailing wife currently so I have no time to spare. ( that's why I'm on the 'puter a lot as I'm not able to play "cars" for real!)
I hope these diagrams might help as a start point as I'm sure your truck will be far from stock.
Despite being able to do most of this stuff myself I think a basic kit may be the way to go. It's nice to have colour coded wires etc. Wire is not terrible cheap and if you have to buy a bunch of different colours it gets spendy fast + connectors etc... One pitfall I see a lot with kits is many assume you have a GM column and thus are wired based on that so just be careful on your selections. A few fellows here obviously have had luck with some kits so their opinions are worth listening to.
-- Edited by poncho62 on Sunday 26th of February 2012 06:24:18 PM
__________________
Stu
"some things hurt more, much more, than cars and girls"
Hey Stu, i know you weren't knocking the GM column, they are just popular & available!!! Most of these wiring kits come either way as stated before, & I think or "thunk" Beachcat should be looking into a "basic" kit. A friend & neighbour has a 57 Chevy Sedan Delivery that needs a re-wire in the worst way, harness is cut,spliced & butchered in a 100 places & I've suggested he change it before it goes up in "smoke" but NOPE "it worked when he took it off the road 20yrs ago & it will work just fine" when it goes back on the road!!!! My 2nd "suggestion" was to "buy a good fire extinguisher"!!!! For a couple of hundred bucks it just "ain't" worth the risk!
-- Edited by dualquadpete on Sunday 26th of February 2012 09:03:00 PM
You can order these "wiring kits for non GM column. I just "happen" to have a GM col. & it's much easier to order that kit,"just plug it in" My E-Z kit came with detailed instructions, lots of diagrams for diff. brands, for alt.,dist. hook up etc. Lots of "extra" circuits for future use, ie. pwr.windows, elect. fan, AC etc. It's really the only way to go for a "re-wire" & not worry about having a fire!!!!!!
__________________
I can only please one person a day, Today is not your day!!Tomorrow doesn't look good either !!!!
You can order these "wiring kits for non GM column. I just "happen" to have a GM col. & it's much easier to order that kit,"just plug it in" My E-Z kit came with detailed instructions, lots of diagrams for diff. brands, for alt.,dist. hook up etc. Lots of "extra" circuits for future use, ie. pwr.windows, elect. fan, AC etc. It's really the only way to go for a "re-wire" & not worry about having a fire!!!!!!
Yep if your starting out with nada and if electrical is not your forte I totally agree. I wasn't knocking GM columns BTW I was just pointing out possible pitfalls going in. Forewarned is forearmed.
__________________
Stu
"some things hurt more, much more, than cars and girls"
Yeah the older cars certainly have very little circuit protection! Most Fords didn't have a proper fuse panel until 1964. I think 63's had one fuse protected circuit! I'm of two minds really. Early cars don't have a lot of stuff to deal with so they are usually simple to wire if kept stock and often can just have proper repairs done to the wiring if it is in good conditon ( undoing that PO Sparkomatic 1970's stereo install!) but when you upgrade to newer stuff like EFI and powerful stereos, halogen lights etc you really benefit from a rewire and additions of relays and circuit breakers along with the high amp alternators.
__________________
Stu
"some things hurt more, much more, than cars and girls"
do they make a generic wiring harness for your truck. reason i ask i'm not an electrician by any means but i've made plenty of harnesses for projects over the years i just followed the schematics with colour codes and size of wire. as long as there is no computer involved i'm good. that being said i picked up a generic wiring harness for a 55 chev truck from bills trucks in courtice (i just check internet, prices sure have gone up) it went in slick as snot in less then a day. especially a truck because the rear wiring is down the frame.
__________________
There are 106 miles to Chicago. We have a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark, and we're wearing sunglasses.
I put a kit from American Autowire in my 50 Plymouth recently. Came with everthing including the ignition switch, headlight switch, terminlas, conncectors, etc. Only extras I had to buy were sockets for tail/signal lights and a hazard switch. It was prewired for a GM column but it did include the female end of the Gm connector so you could attach that to the wiring from your old column if desired. Took a weekend to install and everything worked first try. The included wiring diagrams and instructions were easy enough that a simpleton like me could follow along. Not the cheapest out there but quality is top notch, in my opinion. I saved a couple of bucks by shipping to a friend in the sates and he brought it up for me.
Hey Raff you & I must be related. I did the same thing when I ordered my kit from E-Z had it shipped to buddy's house in W Virginia, then met him at "Summit Auto" in Ohio on a road trip for parts!!! Saves paying UPS [the bandits without a gun] their "rip off" brokerage fees
__________________
I can only please one person a day, Today is not your day!!Tomorrow doesn't look good either !!!!
I have wired several cars - a few from scratch, a few with modified harnesses from other vehicles, and a few with new universal harnesses.
Get a universal harness and wire it that way. It saves a ton of heaches, you get a better finished product, and there are no worries after its done.
I use Rebel wiring because its good quality and the least expensive one I have found. I have a complete muscle car kit that will be going into my 57' Plymouth as soon as I get the brakes completed.
Dualquad, I see you are up in Blackstock. Not far from me. We've probably been shaken down by the same UPS guy a time or two.
"Likely" but I avoid them like the "PLAGUE"!!!! The last 3 or 4 orders from the 'stateside" I've gone down to get them, even with the gas & hotel [or staying at friends house if longer away] it still "beats the crap" outta paying UPS!!!!! & it's a "get a way" for me for a couple of days. Got stung "big Time" on some inner door trim panels I had sent for the 51 Mercury P/Up I had at the time, it doubled the price of the panels by the time it got here "thanks to UPS's brokerage fees"
__________________
I can only please one person a day, Today is not your day!!Tomorrow doesn't look good either !!!!
I did buy a Rebel universal kit with 8 circuits. I'm very impressed so far. They break the install down into sections such as engine, front, rear, interior etc. So far I've done the engine (started right up!), front and rear. When I had a question, I phoned the company ( must be a mom & pop organization cause his wife answered and he called me back) and they were very knowlegable and helpful. There was a "fuseable link" that is placed between the main power and the battery. It doesn't look anything like a fuse but looks like a short length of wire with a standard connector. This was confusing me. If you don't use it, it voids the warranty.
YEP, a "fuse Link" is a special wire that will "BLOW" just like a fuse!!! Only thing is it's hard to find when it does blow. You keep 'prodding" the wire w/test light till you find where its DEAD!! Then replace the whole link!!!
__________________
I can only please one person a day, Today is not your day!!Tomorrow doesn't look good either !!!!
The link is a wire 1 or so gauges smaller than the one you want to protect, ie a 10ga wire would have a 12/ 14ga wire in it so it melts before the 10ga wire.
I did buy a Rebel universal kit with 8 circuits. I'm very impressed so far. They break the install down into sections such as engine, front, rear, interior etc. So far I've done the engine (started right up!), front and rear. When I had a question, I phoned the company ( must be a mom & pop organization cause his wife answered and he called me back) and they were very knowlegable and helpful. There was a "fuseable link" that is placed between the main power and the battery. It doesn't look anything like a fuse but looks like a short length of wire with a standard connector. This was confusing me. If you don't use it, it voids the warranty.
Glad to hear your making "headway" SEE, It's not that hard to do, & so far everything is working out & you'll be able to say "I DID THAT" I felt "really'good when I did the wiring on the the 52 & opened the door & the interior light came on!!! Then the signals & B/lights all checked out TOO!! Everything worked the way it should, engine fired up, Chrg. system A-OK & no worry now of a fire. Keep us up todate on how it goes
__________________
I can only please one person a day, Today is not your day!!Tomorrow doesn't look good either !!!!
The link is a wire 1 or so gauges smaller than the one you want to protect, ie a 10ga wire would have a 12/ 14ga wire in it so it melts before the 10ga wire.
The thing is that it only melts on the inside. You would not know by looking at it that the inards have melted. Strange but in all my years of farting around with electrical stuff, this is the first I've heard of it.
Beachcat: I know of a fellow here in Barrie that does wiring and other jobs on the side. Would you like me to call him and see if he'd consider going to Schomberg? primer
I just finished installing the muscle car kit inthe 57' I changed the front headlight circuit to use relays powered directly off the battery because the lights I am using draw more amps than the stockers, and I am keeping the stock headlight switch.