OK here is the problem .What kind do yuu guys use.I cannot belive the trouble I am having.Cheap ones metal ones glue stacks 3or 4 deep(I was desperate).Fatstax even welded me up new flanges on them,They are straight we checked and the gaskets are gone again.I have ordered a set of I think they are called something like "fel-pro"the parts guy says there good ones.So what do the rest of you hot rodders use I have more money into gaskets than I have into the engine,well it seams like it. Ed
I used to run blockhugger headers on a SBC. Kept having gasket problems. Ended up cutting the flange between the pipes hoping the headers would fit better (I assumed they were warped, cutting the flange would allow the pipes to easily be pulled straight when the bolts were tightened, or so I thought) ... this didn't solve my gasket problems. Turns out the gaskets I was buying had exhaust port holes that were too large for the headers I was using, leaving very little of the gasket to actually contact the head and make a seal. Ended up buying a gasket set that had smaller exhaust holes and never burned through a set again.
The guy I bought the headers from also had this problem and he even tried the copper gaskets with no success.
Sorry, I do not have any part numbers (or even the manufacturers name) since this happened several years ago. I have since returned to running factory cast iron exhaust manifolds due to the emission clampdown. I know headers can be legal, I just wanted my engine to appear as stock as possible (this included sandblasting the aluminum valve covers and intake manifold and painting them the same colour as the engine).
I just use the steel shim gaskets for sealing stock manifolds....I think the trick is to retighten them a few times, like retorquing heads or wheels. Its when they get loose and the gasket blows out.
Hey Ed; I've always had issues with those darn gaskets. I just bought a set of Remflex gaskets, and they seem to be leaps and bounds better that the old crap I've been using. These are made from graphite, and are a full 1/8 thick. they are supposed to crush down to 1/16 and are designed for warped headders or corroded exhaust manifolds. I actually put them on just before the Port Perry show last weekend, and they seem fine so far. Dan
I have always used the High Performance Hi Temp Silicone. Just lay a thick bead and let it cure bolt the headers on and you are good to go. The secret is to let it come to a full cure first.
Thanks guys there are lots of options out there that I didn't know about ,one of them is bound to solve the problem for me and hopefully others as well. ED
I hear ya Chris but I built the car around the headers.These gaskets may work 2weeks and counting longest time without a leak,maybe I will be able to fix some of the other problems now. Ed
I've used fel pro and have had good luck with them but I also coat them with high heat gasket maker on both sides and let them cure for a couple hours,they will last longer but you do have to stay on top of the bolts,you can crank them down tight and go back a week later and don't be surprised to find a couple loosening already.
just a trick i have used in the past wheel bearing grease it will burn off and be a bit messy and smoky but will help greatly but as others have said lose bolts probably cause most header woes
Felpro work fine for me. The trick is to retorque them. Run the engine up to temp, let it cool down, and retighten the bolts. Then after driving it around for a day or two - retighten the bolts. Then after driving it around for a week or so - retighten the bolts. By then, it should have taken a set and be fine.
I have had the headers rust out with the original header gaskets I put on still good.