what are you using to lift it up with? Stock or modified frame? Type of suspension? Not to sound mean spirited but if you have to ask that question are you qualified to do such an operation? Cars come down real fast when not supported properly.
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Not to sound mean spirited but if you have to ask that question are you qualified to do such an operation? Cars come down real fast when not supported properly.
Not to sound mean spirited but don't be an AHole. How do you think people become qualified if they don't ask and learn? Do you think you are born with lifting knowledge? Why do you think manufacturers supply this info with their cars?
Point is, Mike was trying to help. He doesnt know Beachcat from Adam, doesnt know if he has any experience in such matters, so the comment was justified in my mind. The original question was quite vague.
Question answered, lets move on
Actually my question hasn't been answered but I've had a few helpful replies. If there are any 32 Ford owners who have done it, I would appreciate the info.
-- Edited by Beachcat on Sunday 29th of July 2012 08:45:41 PM
On a car like that, I would say under the middle of each axle with a floor jack. Those cars have pretty flimsy bumpers, so I dont think i would be using a bumper jack like the cars of the 50s-60s did. How to jack cars has changed drastically over the years......
if the frame rails are fully boked, then anywhere along the frame should suffice. If its a stock, open c channel frame, then I'd stick to a spring perch location or as Poncho suggested, the axle.
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Tom Laughlin "Billy Jack" RIP - a true Hollywood hero
I,ve had to lift older c frame cars on shop hoists before. If i feel the frame is a bit thin for that kinda hoist i try to position the pads as close to a gusset , crossmember or spring perch mount , as possible . in a situation where i have to set a pad and the channel is open i will cut a short piece of 2 x 4 , and fit it inside the c channel , u can use washers or shims to make it so 2x4 will transmit load to top side of frame . this will help against crushing the open side of the channel ., or a six inch to foot long 2x4 laid flat on top of lift pad can transmit the load from just the 3 or 4 inch dia meter pad to a foot length , will also protect the frame . we lift cars an trucks of all kinds with this methods nearly every day ..77.
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I,m as cool as Milner , but axeually a bit more like Beckwith
Like I said, I'm not trying to be mean spirited or an a hole. The thing I feared the most for someone who doesn't know is the car falling on top of them. Ruining the car and thier day and their familys day. Yes I have known cars to fall off of hoists. I have put thousands of cars on hoists (i do it everyday). I have nothing against teaching you or any one about how to put a car on a hoist but I hesitate to do on an open forum where I may say something wrong, the reader may take it wrong. To me it's way better to show someone in person. When you learned to drive did someone tell you where the gas, brake, steering and gear shift was, then tell you that you know how to drive?
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I didn't ask you for lessons on how to use a lift. I own a lift and have put many cars on it. I asked for recommended lift points on a 32 Ford. Get over yourself.
Point is, Mike was trying to help. He doesnt know Beachcat from Adam, doesnt know if he has any experience in such matters, so the comment was justified in my mind. The original question was quite vague.
The problem with answering this question is , each and every car truck etc might need a diferent setting of the lift points , its gonna depend on the vehicle , like i said before it depends on the frame not necessarily a 32 ford . I,m the only tech in a family run 5 bay shop . 5 lifts , 1 sym , 3 asym , 1 aligner rack drive on style . Personally i would put it on the drive on rack an lift under the suspension , cause that would spread the lift point over the largest area of frame . Lifting each car is different lets say you got 2 , 32 any things in the shop , one has a boxed frame , one has orig frame , BUT , the open side of the channel has waves on it from being jacked with a floor jack or that type of lift that has just a 2 inch wide lift pad . Then the c channel car where you set the pads is gonna depend on where you think is strongest safest or where you can spread the force of the lift point over a wider , longer area . ..77.
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I,m as cool as Milner , but axeually a bit more like Beckwith
I should have done this in the first place. My frame is new and boxed. No past damaged week spots. You see on the frame rail stock picture below that there is only a very short flat section in the middle. I think that the jacking points need to be out further on the angled portions. Placing lift pads on angled protions scares me. Is there some technique you can recommend?
is it hard or soft rubber pads , hard 0ones slip any time they want . the soft rubber ones , are better , but makes sure they are free of grease rust sand water any contaminents and dry dry dry . i,d put the back ones just before the kick up , the frt ones I,d center under the frame rail , but swing the arms out so they hit the locks and stop then adjust the slide arm in or out to center the pads . with the frame angling upwards to the frt . if you set the arms so they are already against the locks , then they cant move any further forwards lots of modern pick ups have a frame shaped like that just back wards to the pick , flat at frt and angle up wards to go over differential . if your really worried about it get some new lift pads welded up , make them from c channel that just fits the width of your frame plus maybe 1/4 inch extra width , then have that section angled to meet the slope angle of your frame . Line them with 1/4 inch thick belting .Then u will have your own custom lift pads and never have to worry about slippage pads that come on lifts are just basic ones , now you have your own custom ones fitted to your car . many bike shops make their own design of lift pads for to fit different bikes . oh yea dont forget the politically correct stuff .make sure u make the new pads , if u try it , from materials sufficient to support the load and welded by a real welder person ..77.
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I,m as cool as Milner , but axeually a bit more like Beckwith
Excellent 77! Thats exactly what I needed to know. My pads are steel. They are 4" square with the 4 corners slightly bumped up in sort of a claw effect. I think they will hold this frame well. If I put pads on them, I loose that claw effect. But I will think about making the ones you described.
Thanks for taking the time on this. I can now place the fronts with confidence. My bad for not being more specific in the first post.
