I just googled B2071 and it appears to be a lathe and mill combination. The lathe/mill they currently sell has a different number (B2229) so the B2071 appears to have been discontinued (although the tooling for the new model might still work).
-- Edited by Pint and a Pound on Saturday 5th of January 2013 06:38:31 PM
__________________
If at first you don't succeed you do have options ... lower your standards or just plain quit are the two I usually choose from :)
If that 327 is a large journal forged crank casting# 3914672 it can be worth good money to the right person. It can be cast with that part number also you'd have to check.
-- Edited by scott420p on Saturday 5th of January 2013 06:38:30 PM
a good friend of mine passed away recently and he left the widow a mess of automotive crap all over the place. she has asked me what some stuff is worth for her to sell. i said i would ask. the 327 is worn out and basically is a core and crank, it came out of a 67 texas chev 1/2 ton. the 283 is almost complete but is also worn out, it comes with block, crank, heads, oil pan and i think pistons and connecting rods. i know know probaly not much but with the emission nazis in ontario the older cores must be worth something? i know he also has a busy bee lathe, i'll find out what model first.
__________________
There are 106 miles to Chicago. We have a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark, and we're wearing sunglasses.
i asked the guy who built my engine last spring pretty much the same question, he said if you are building a car that requires a 283 or 327 to be correct then thats fine but those engines have small journals and are not ideal for performance or durability. those engines ae likley valuable to the collectors or car restorers
If that 327 is a large journal forged crank casting# 3914672 it can be worth good money to the right person. It can be cast with that part number also you'd have to check.
-- Edited by scott420p on Saturday 5th of January 2013 06:38:30 PM
So .... if the crank actually IS forged ... do they still call it a "casting" number or is it actually a "forging" number? (I'll be here all week folks).
__________________
If at first you don't succeed you do have options ... lower your standards or just plain quit are the two I usually choose from :)
If that 327 is a large journal forged crank casting# 3914672 it can be worth good money to the right person. It can be cast with that part number also you'd have to check.
-- Edited by scott420p on Saturday 5th of January 2013 06:38:30 PM
So .... if the crank actually IS forged ... do they still call it a "casting" number or is it actually a "forging" number? (I'll be here all week folks).
Still a casting number - both are a casting, forging is a secondary process to the casting
__________________
Tom Laughlin "Billy Jack" RIP - a true Hollywood hero
Small journal 327s were built from 62-68....in 69. they used the large journal crank, so those are quite rare. I think for a street engine journal size makes little difference
I have a small journal 327 under the bench right now. It has a 283 crank in it to make it a 302. As mike said, those things will rev like crazy...all day long. Now IF I was going to build a blower motor or stuff a bunch of nitrous down it's throat, I would want a large journal 4 bolt. Buy as was said above a 2 bolt small journal will live quite well as a street strip motor.
BY the way here's some help in determining exactly what she has.
I've had a bunch of those and always felt the small journal cranks spun up easier - we had a 283 punched to 4" with a stroker small journal crank and roller cam and lifters back in about '68 in a stock car - that thing ran over 9000RPM all night long and never busted. I loved that motor. Also had some small journal 327s in a '67 Vette and a few hot rods and never had a bit of trouble with any of them.
__________________
My wife wants me to see things from a woman's point of view, so now I spend a lot of time looking out the kitchen window