Anybody familiar with this product, looks to be a new launch at SEMA. Pretty high levels of Zinc, phosphate and moly which is need for a flat tappet cam. 5 quarts container for $25 so pretty competitively priced. What are others using
I'm going to try some of this. I just finished fixing the engine in the 29 and have to pick up a new pan....so, I'll try it. Seems like it has all the right stuff in it.
I don't think its $25.00 per 5 quarts container IN CANADA check that out
I think its $35 in our store
If it is thats dam cheap dam cheap for Lucas its 75.00 at Car Quest Clinton
Who buys anything in Canada?? $27 for a five quart jug with free shipping in the US. It's closer for me to go to the US, than drive into town, over at least weekly, grocery's, gas, lunch, parts. Hey I'm retired and can't afford to shop here!!
-- Edited by oldkoot on Thursday 24th of January 2013 09:29:36 PM
I used to run Royal Purple, I just switched-over to Brad Penn http://www.penngrade1.com/ . I've heard a lot of good about it, so just trying it now for the first time.
I looked for it in Port Huron Mi last week and none could be found. All the stores (NAPA, Advanced, autozone, O'Rielly's etc.,) over there carried Lucas products, but sadly no oil. Maybe it'll take a couple of months to get on the shelves?
-- Edited by Rochie on Sunday 3rd of February 2013 09:54:10 AM
well id first have to ask what engine you plan on putting it in. Flat tappets need the zinc on brake in but after 30 min running they are work harden and the extra zinc will more then likely do more harm then good. if its just been rebuilt by someone then follow there instructions if you rebuilt it there are some fine brake in oils on the market. Id suggest you spend a few hours and read this
Interesting article but it deals more with viscosity, I'm not a machinist or have a degree in metallurgy, but the reason Zinc was reduced in oil was more to prevent the failure of emission devices than anything else. As an engine wears, blow by increases and the 02 sensors and cats become contaminated by the zinc in the oil, failing within the manufacturers warranty period for major emission devices. Remember no car has been built since the 80's with a flat tappet cam, roller lifters came in about the same time zinc levels where reduced.I found this article focused more on what we might experience.
Sorry about the fonts but i havent figured out why it keeps reverting to this horrible mess and types in normal till you hit preview ....any time I hit back or move the currsor it changes .... thanks for the link . I really don't have a problem with the zinc and moly and I would personally slather the stuff on a new rebuild but as far as running after break in I'm still not sold. to keep moly or zinc in suspension in the oil it would have to be fine enough to pass through the filter and remain suspended in the pan. therefore its not going to act like cam brake in fluid that you pour directly on the parts. the article all so brings up some other valid points that i believe is where the real problem lies. I have over 60.000 kl running full synthetic on a flat tappet cam original gm with unknown miles on it when I installed it with no addvers affect . I don't see a problem running regular oil that brings us back to substandard parts and lack of enough oil. as far as the parts go you get what you pay for ( sometimes) what i found interesting and true that as a rule builders have been finding ways to cut down on splash with windige trays ect. now getting back to viscosity and all motor oil is rated at 100 c and thickens when cooled and its a proven fact that most engine wear happens at start up the 10w-40 you are looking at is roughly 10x thicker then required at 40 c bringing your oil pressure to the max and dumping most of the flow directly back into the pan instead of feeding it to the parts that require it. This is where the 10 psi per 1000 rpm comes in to insure your getting the maxamin flow to the engine for lube and cooling . Oil flowing through the pump and over the relief straight back into the pan is not doing your tappets or bearings any good. Remember flow is directly related to rpm the faster you turn the pump the more volume you will get weather you have 10 psi or 60. Under Ideal conditions you wouldn't reach the relief ( bypass) setting until you top out on rpm that way 100% of your oil flow is going to the engine all the time
So for a mechanical roller set up would Shell 15-W-40 Rotella T work? I know it is used in most diesel applications both conventional and low emissions.