Hey all! Wondering if any of you can help me find some spark plugs for my 52 chevy truck with a 216 engine. My local suppliers are no help. Crappy tire has no idea. If anybody could give me a part number or plug number to ask or look for, that would be great!
Really all you need if it is just to get the truck running to drive it in and out of your'e garage, find some used plugs, just clean and gap them, it will still run. What is wrong with the plugs that were in it?
Anyone here with a 283 or older engine etc should maybe have a used set ?
Well you see! I had the plugs out on the work bench and a ghost majically appeared and knocked them on the floor! 3 of the ceramic part broke. There was a few old ones in the glove box that are rusted up a bit. Can I maybe clean them up and give them a try? Are new plugs hard to get for this this? What do people do when they rebuild an old engine? Buy NOS off of ebay? Seems funny that plugs for this are not readily available.
champion rj8c delco 44 I have a set of champion j12y in the 235 now pretty well any 14mm plug with a gasket seat is going to work its not a interference type motor and the piston is never going to hit the plug so your only concern is heat range
i couldn't get none resistor plug, napa said discontinued but could use the resistor plug just they didn't run as hot. that being said i'm sure there is some none resistor plugs sitting on somebodies stock shelf in the back but for ease of purchase to just get ya running go resistor. i'm sure you're not a numbers matching date code type of guy plus grampa always told me to stay away from champion.
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There are 106 miles to Chicago. We have a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark, and we're wearing sunglasses.
I could have yanked the non resistor j12y plugs out of a spare motor cant really remember . they are showing a j12yc . non resistor 14 mm 3/8 reach standard projected core nose copper + design. the original plug calls for a non projected but if you have the head removed you can see that the core nose dosent project into the cylinder head and the spark is confined within the plug hole. . starting the flame within a 14mm hole instead of in the chamber dosent make a lot of cents to me so the projected core extends the tip so its just inside the chamber . Maybe sometimes I think to much. The plugs run a good color and dont foul but i should add im running a converted 4.3 small hei distributor with larger plug gap and a dry coil from an injected 3L ranger only because I had it and it was new. Not as pleasing to the eye but the price was great.
Dam no listing for chev. We all know how much more power and better milelage you get from snake oil. and its got to be true if they had adds in them there popular(cant spell word) magazines. Bettin theyed be a treat in my flame thrower.
LOL Hemi43! Got a bunch done today after hockey. Cleaned a few of the old rusted plugs that were in the glove box and got them sparking. Had nothing at first but cleaned the distributor, reset the points. gapped the plugs etc. Added a toggle switch to bypass the key switch to power the 12V coil with internal 3 ohm resistor. Added a new ground cable. Now have spark on all 6 plugs. Cap and rotor should be replaced as they are pitted but cleaned them up as good as I could. Took the fuel pump and carb off for cleaning. I will clean them at work tomorrow. All in all, was an awesome afternoon working in the heated shop sipping on a cold one playing around on the old truck. It's nice to work on stuff for once that's not under the gun to get back on the road. Can't work on it tomorrow night as I have hockey but maybe tuesday.
One quick question. Can I feed fuel to the carb by gravity or do I need the fuel pump working?
Gravity will work.. Best to check inside the gas tank and blow out the lines anyway most of the time after sitting for years its going to be full of rust or gelled fuel or both carb rebuild kits fuel pumps ect are still avalible from most supplyers think I picked it up at Car Quest but napa should have it. Ha about the avitar thats willow playing had to steal her bone and tap her snout a few times to get that picture . been thinking about photo shoping a santa hat on her. glad to hear your making progress and keep it fun. Ill switch it up with narra the other furry beast who's a bit more layed back.
She's alive! She's alive! Oil pressure gauge works fine and is holding 15 lbs at idle. Increases with RPM. Water pump leaks a bit at lower drivers bolt head. Maybe a bit from behind pulley. Rad has no leaks. Going to pull thermostat to clean and test. I took carb and fuel pump off and cleaned them. She fired on 3 or 4 revolutions. Tomorrow night I will see if she will move under her own power. Kids came up with a name for it. "Lowmater" They know I want to lower it and my other truck is lifted so that's where they came up with the name. It's been a good night! First major accomplishment with this old girl.
I'm shocked at how well it has ran. My guess is that it hasn't ran for 20 yrs. Fuel pump and carb were full of aluminum corrosion. Idles prettty good with no choke. Have to choke it everytime you shut her down and restart but starts right away. I'd say she runs about 90%. Not bad i'd say! She is running on the old plugs with three old rusted plugs I found in the glove box. Cleaned up three old plugs that gave spark and thats whats its running on right now....
Cool eh! My dad says I'm ruining the truck by not putting it back to stock. I think he will change his tune when he has his foot behind the pedal.
Run it till the babbit pounder blows and then drop in A 235 or 261 direct fit just need to pick up the water pump adapter to position it in the center of the fan. Heres one listed in the swap meet.
