Ok - so I am constructing an intake manifold for my cummins race engine

 

The design would call for tapered runners that are 1 1/2"x2 1/4" rectangle at one end, and a 2 3/4 or 3" round opening at the other end

 

In the alternative I could do rectangular at both ends, butstill have a taper to enhance velocity

 

Lots of people on here seem to be metal smiths - so hopefully one of you can point me in the right direction

 

I have most of Ron Covells books, and a couple others, and understand how to make hardwood bucks to pound out 1/2 the shape and butt weld pieces together.

 

However my issue is I need to use, say, 14 gauge material to withstand 75+ pounds boost, and not bellow or balloon.

 

If I was to go rectangular - I could cut out the four tapers and weld them together, but that wont give me the radious I want to see in the corners as it transitions from round to rectangular

 

Is there Anybody here to point me in the right direction?

 

thanks

 

Ken

Wow, that is a complex shape to make even for a seasoned metal former. IMHO, something that complicated I would make it from composite like carbon fiber, but that would get a bit pricey !! Since you have so many runners to make from such thick (12g) steel, try to make your buck from a piece of aluminum. If you try to form over a piece of hardwood (16 pieces) your buck will turn to saw dust after a couple of pieces.

-- Edited by hemi43 on Tuesday 26th of February 2013 01:46:02 PM

DaveM wrote:

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Backyard hydroforming. Got a pressure washer?

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 Hey, there's something we haven't done yet !! I'm not so sure 1200 PSI would be enough for 12g

-- Edited by hemi43 on Tuesday 26th of February 2013 04:46:40 PM

or get some tubing bent and reshape one end into the rectangle.  3" dia is 3.14x 3 =9.42" circumference the rectangle would be about 7 -1/2" circ.   or a 2-1/2 " dia tube would be 7.85" circ which is closer.

Just a thought.

area of the 3" top is around 7.065 sq/in        pie x R sq'd= area

so just pie cut the bottom of the tube to reshape into the rectangle and at the same time form the taper.

isn't there something like a venturi that can be put inside a tube to increase velocity. ...or so they say? 

Seeker1056 wrote:

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although a lite bulb just went on - take said 50 degree elbow, and split it almost to one end, the unsplit end being formed to the rectangle, and some wedge pieces inserted into the split on each side to make the wider taper at the top


:)

that just might work

-- Edited by Seeker1056 on Tuesday 26th of February 2013 01:55:04 PM

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 hey thats kinda what I was getting at my friend  

DaveM wrote:

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Backyard hydroforming. Got a pressure washer?

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 never heard of this?

Rustynuts wrote:

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I checked it out on youtube....interesting concept......also questioned the one young guy making the tuned exhaust while crouched beside the pipe under pressure without any eye protection or anything else in case it exploded.

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It can't explode !! Liquids can't be compressed !!

I have used the hardwood buck method with 14guage before, and was able to make 6 grill custom grill teeth before the buck needed repair.   If you use lots of heat the buck just chars a bit and the metal works easy...

OH MY - then sure are purdy

wonder how much lol

the one on the right is about what I want, if it just had some banana to it

I will call them for sure

mm - yes - the motor i am building if done through a race shop like Haisleys or Schieds out of the States would cost anywhere from 45-60k

I will be all in and done for about 12k because i do everything, including design/build/fabricate/modify all the custom parts, and modify/rework the stock parts, and a friend does the machining for free.

Only thing store bought and as is , is the cam, intake valves, and the lifters, as crank and block and rods were free, but now much modified.

I will try to make my own runners before i resort to buying something

thanks to everyone for the suggestions