As a child I was taught there is only one colour spray can...imagine my shock the first time I wondered down the paint section at Canadian tire.....not only does black come in gloss...it comes in not black!
Hey hemi if you you would like to borrow the cover when you take the family out for what passes for fine dining in Newcastle,you know the Timmies ,I'll ask him if its available tomorrow when he gets off work. Ed You got me Steve ,he must have smuggled into the yard,I'll have a talk with him. Ed
As a child I was taught there is only one colour spray can...imagine my shock the first time I wondered down the paint section at Canadian tire.....not only does black come in gloss...it comes in not black!
That's funny right there.
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There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.”
And here we all thought that there were too many "sock" vendors at the Barrie flea market !! Wow, were we ever stupid !! They're not socks, they're "tack rags" !! You can see a used one by the front tire!!
i still cant believe the boy was able to procure the side pipes so easily, i recall something ed said about my cold dead hands. another white family heirloom.
good for you. they were a neat different car in their day. don't forget to 8" spring shackles for the nostalgic look. lol the rises in the fenders are uncommon for a non vette car. the side pipes are a good touch. good luck and keep us posted. have at it young lad.
Don't lose too much sleep about having to mod the wiring harness. You can plug a '94-'95 PCM into a '96 harness no problem. The extra components on a '96 were added on, so the early PCM just ignores them. Except for.. The knock sensors on a '96 each have their own input to the PCM, on an OBD1 PCM both sensors go to one input, so this will need to be jumpered at the PCM connector, or pull the pin and connect the wires. And the knock sensors themselves are different, so you'll need OBD1 B-body (iron head) sensors. Keep in mind while researching that F and Y body LT1's (aluminum head) only use 1 knock sensor. There are a few differences in the LT1 between car lines. Don't assume f-body and y-body parts will work.
You'll also need an OBD1 diagnostic port connector and re-pin the serial data wire at the PCM to D29 for the B-body PCM.
You'll want to disable the VATS in the PCM, and you'll need to tune the shift tables for the Javelins gear/tire combo if you are keeping the 4L60E, or tell the PCM it's a manual if using some other trans. You do need a VSS signal, (IMHO, use the 4l60E)
An AC delete pulley is available, or you can pull the compressor apart and use the pulley from that. This will help with motor mount clearance.
-- Edited by DaveM on Sunday 7th of July 2013 09:16:36 PM
-- Edited by DaveM on Sunday 7th of July 2013 09:17:00 PM
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There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.”
I do have a 95 PCM sitting in the garage and an already modded 95 pcm sitting in my roadmaster if I hit a snag
I have been looking at links on how to mod the wiring harness so hopefully I can figure that out
ya the engine has a few red flags but the price was right and the low km is worth the risk, worst case I get it working, it
blows and I get another one haha atleast I get all the wiring and such
Thanks for the input Dave .This is way past me VATS,PCM,knok sensors,OBDI,diagnostic ports,hell i'm still looking for the distributer on this thing.Seriousely there is a lot to learn with this new stuff and I am sure we will be wareing out the phone lines with questions between Cobourg and Newcastle,at least untill you change your number. Ed
Here is a pic of the 3 connectors inside the car that you will tie into. Don't cut any wires on the engine side of these connectors. The harness will come out with the engine once you disconnect these 3 and take the 2 screws out of the firewall bulkhead. Keep the pigtails of these 3 connectors to do all of the tie in.
On this one I went the extra effort so that the instrument cluster and dash controls could be used in the Jag that it was going into.
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There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.”
Yep. That's the beauty of this set-up. 95% of the wiring stay's intact and untouched from the battery to the underhood electrical box that is all integral with the engine harness. Power feeds to the cars fuse panel, ignition switch, dash, it all comes through those 3 connectors. It'll run and power the car with about 6 wires to hook up inside the car(once you disable the VATS in the PCM).
A few other wires for dash indicators, diagnostic port, park neutral switch etc. that it will run without, but you'll want to hook 'em up.
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There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.”
Hey guys we have made some progress on the javelin lately. Got it hauled to fatstax shop pulled the old 304 out and have the new LT1 in place. But not before I was able to dump a few cans of Tremclad in the engine bay, gotta make it look pretty for the ladies haha. Now have the chevy motor mounts welded in hopefully we get the tranny mount done tomorrow. after that I get to start playing with the wiring
has gone very smooth so far not many if any tools thrown but I have lost alot of knuckle skin
