1989 S15 Tick/Knock

scott420p · BRAMPTON, ONT

1989 S15 Tick/Knock

poncho62 · ADMINISTRATOR

Sort of sounds like an exhaust leak, cracked manifold.......Lots of km, so a sticky lifter is a possibility. Have you changed the oil etc?

scott420p · BRAMPTON, ONT

Haven't changed the oil or done anything to it yet. I bought it and brought it home last Saturday, it didn't make the noise when I looked at it. But after driving it home from St. Catherine's I started noticing the sound unfortunately.

JPB · AYLMER, ONT

I would dump the oil and filter,substitute 1 litre of Rislone Engine flush with the new oil and filter.Drive this around for a week then change again.Or you could drain out a litre of oil,add one litre of Kerosene and let it idle for 20 / 30 minutes,no engine load. Then change the oil.Either method will clean the crud out of it.Kerosene was used in the garage before the new products were devised and works good but NO LOAD.

Bruce Rossiter · TORONTO, ONT

It sounds to me like it has a rod knocking.

hemi43 · ONTARIO

Time for a big block !!

scott420p · BRAMPTON, ONT

Bruce Rossiter wrote:
It sounds to me like it has a rod knocking.

Thats kinda what I was fearing. Unfortunately I'm probably gonna drive it for a while, possibly put some heavier oil in it? Until I can afford to pick up a rebuilt 4.3.

DaveM · ONTARIO

sasquatch wrote:

Wondering, is there somewhere you can hook a mechanical oil pressure gauge into it, and see what oil pressure it has?

Same as a small block Chevy V8, above the oil filter boss on the block, or behind the intake manifold.

-- Edited by DaveM on Tuesday 11th of June 2013 09:21:30 PM

scott420p · BRAMPTON, ONT

Well I looked harder in to this noise, pulled each spark plug wire one by one and the noise didn't go away. Then I finally got someone else to rev the engine as I crawled around trying to pin point this and its definitely coming from the oil pan. So much for a "rebuilt" motor with 25000km lol. So time to look for a new motor as obviously I have been taken on this truck, by a mechanic with a shop to top it off.

sasquatch · NORTH BAY, ONT

Scott for all it takes try the flush John mentioned.

Those sounds can be deceiving as hell. Try the flush first you won't be out very much to try it.

scott420p · BRAMPTON, ONT

sasquatch wrote:
Scott for all it takes try the flush John mentioned.

Those sounds can be deceiving as hell. Try the flush first you won't be out very much to try it.

I will try a flush this weekend because I just don't have the money to buy a motor right now. Would running slightly thicker oil possibly help hold it over for a little longer?

parklane · St THOMAS, ONT

357 right between the headlites??

sasquatch · NORTH BAY, ONT

If it really is a rodbearing, (We don't know that for sure yet,) doubt if thicker oil would help much, but i'd try it anyway after the flush.
I have seen mainbearings rattle pretty scarey, but driven carefully for awhile they did last a surprising length of time.
Wondering, is there somewhere you can hook a mechanical oil pressure gauge into it, and see what oil pressure it has?

scott420p · BRAMPTON, ONT

Well the gauge on my dash is digital and runs at just above 40 psi while cool and once its warms up it drops down only at idle and comes back with some gas.

sasquatch · NORTH BAY, ONT

Drops down to what when hot?

scott420p · BRAMPTON, ONT

When hot it drops down two bars below 40 psi leaving 6 bars still remaining. I'm assuming each bar is 5psi, so I'd say 30psi is the lowest.

Bruce Rossiter · TORONTO, ONT

Maybe I should explain why I think it's a rod bearing that's making the noise. When the engine is revved up. there is no rapping sound. The rod noise only becomes audible when the engine reaches the no-load portion of the acceleration and through the first part of the deceleration. While the oil pressure reading is 40 lbs., keep in mind that the pressure switch is one of the first places the oil pressure goes to from the oil pump. Generally speaking, the rod bearings for cylinders number 1 and 2 are the last ones to be oiled along the crankshaft oil channels which could give you a high oil pressure reading at the back of the engine and a low oil pressure reading at the front of the engine if these cylinder bearings are worn or spun.

Keep in mind that the sound I hear is my guess as to what is making the sound and nothing replaces a teardown to really find out what's wrong. Nothing in a tin can will ever repair a spun rod bearing.

sasquatch · NORTH BAY, ONT

Good post Bruce.

scott420p · BRAMPTON, ONT

Bruce Rossiter wrote:
Maybe I should explain why I think it's a rod bearing that's making the noise. When the engine is revved up. there is no rapping sound. The rod noise only becomes audible when the engine reaches the no-load portion of the acceleration and through the first part of the deceleration. While the oil pressure reading is 40 lbs., keep in mind that the pressure switch is one of the first places the oil pressure goes to from the oil pump. Generally speaking, the rod bearings for cylinders number 1 and 2 are the last ones to be oiled along the crankshaft oil channels which could give you a high oil pressure reading at the back of the engine and a low oil pressure reading at the front of the engine if these cylinder bearings are worn or spun.

Keep in mind that the sound I hear is my guess as to what is making the sound and nothing replaces a teardown to really find out what's wrong. Nothing in a tin can will ever repair a spun rod bearing.

I think the same thing after poking around today and hearing the noise come from the oil pan. Basically I'm trying to stretch this motor until I can get $1000 together for a long block. Thanks for the replies I will let you guys know how the flush goes.

Bruce Rossiter · TORONTO, ONT

sasquatch wrote:
Good post Bruce.

Thanks, I appreciate that.

janies dirty 37 · SOUTH RIVER, ONT

Oh.... sh*tty deal.
If ya do it right..... take bets/$ and you have more control then anyone when its gonna crap out!!! lol. Maybe the money you make will offset cost of working one??? biggrin

Janice

-- Edited by janies dirty 37 on Sunday 16th of June 2013 07:36:40 PM

scott420p · BRAMPTON, ONT

Well unfortunately Bruce was right on. I did an oil change and found about 10 small pieces of metal in the oil pan and didn't even bother cutting up the oil filter. Anyone wanna start a pool of when it'll blow?? LOL

sasquatch · NORTH BAY, ONT

Bummer Scott! Hopefully you luck out on finding a cheap replacement.

scott420p · BRAMPTON, ONT

sasquatch wrote:
Bummer Scott! Hopefully you luck out on finding a cheap replacement.

Hopefully, Thanks for your input Ray.

DaveM · ONTARIO

http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAdLargeImage?AdId=470776533&Keyword=buick roadmaster

scott420p · BRAMPTON, ONT

DaveM wrote:
http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAdLargeImage?AdId=470776533&Keyword=buick roadmaster

The one in my profile pic is the one with the v8. I'm probably gonna stick with the 4.3 as this will be my daily driver. Thanks though.

Chris Stapley · CAMPBELLFORD, ONT

I once had a woodpecker trapped in the pan of my S-10, after a short while he pecked his way out through the basement window..

I think rod bearing too, fairly common..

scott420p · BRAMPTON, ONT

scott420p wrote:
DaveM wrote:
http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAdLargeImage?AdId=470776533&Keyword=buick roadmaster
The one in my profile pic is the one with the v8. I'm probably gonna stick with the 4.3 as this will be my daily driver. Thanks though.

Dave your a bad influence lol. Now I'm thinking of doing a stock 87-93 350 tbi swap.

DaveM · ONTARIO

'94 '95 LT1 out of a b-body are excellent engines for donors. The harness comes out the car easily without cutting, and hooks up with about 6 wires.

Better performance and mileage than a TBI, and a flash programmable PCM. No burning chips for tuning or speedo calibration.

'94-'95 Caprice, Roadmaster, Fleetwood.

But watch for the L99 4.3L V8 in the Caprice. Still a good engine, but no LT1.

Either way good luck with you swap.

shag766 · FOXBORO, ONT

scott420p wrote:
scott420p wrote:
DaveM wrote:
http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAdLargeImage?AdId=470776533&Keyword=buick roadmaster
The one in my profile pic is the one with the v8. I'm probably gonna stick with the 4.3 as this will be my daily driver. Thanks though.
Dave your a bad influence lol. Now I'm thinking of doing a stock 87-93 350 tbi swap.

the motor out of this thing might still be available. it was a L something and very-very little miles on it. i ended up with it on a trade somehow but the ole lady didn't want it off the trailer here. i know where the thing is but i don't know who owns what. i took it in for the power train, no miles on it and a L? something. i made a trade for something else but it never materialized. its way out back at a buddies and i told him to do whatever with it and we will square up when its done. if your interested let me know and i will get an update. let me know. it seemed like a good thing at the time. its nice to have buds you can trust. lol more recentcars 063.JPG

i have mentioned here before that i am an addict. just had to have it. think fire truck. LOL

-- Edited by shag766 on Tuesday 18th of June 2013 06:06:59 AM

scott420p · BRAMPTON, ONT

DaveM wrote:
Looks like a '94, it will be an LT1 with a 4L60E trans . Perfect drivetrain for swaps. Easy wire harness, don't be scarred.
260hp/ 330 tq.

I wouldn't mind doing an lt1 swap but am unsure about the wiring. I keep trying to find answers on how to make everything work but basically all I can come up with is that you use a lt1 computer and harness with "some" s10 harness, but which parts of each are needed. Or to buy a $1200 conversion harness LOL. The reason I was looking at the tbi swap is that its basically plug and play. I'm possibly interested in your Hearse motor depending on whether or not I can figure out the wiring.

-- Edited by scott420p on Tuesday 18th of June 2013 05:06:34 PM

DaveM · ONTARIO

The TBI is not plug and play. Different harness for the V8, Different ECM, different programming for speedo and trans which you need a custom chip.

There are a surprising number of differences in TBI set-ups year to year.

You will use the LT1 harness, underhood fuse panel, and PCM. All of which is one unit and comes out easily with the engine. Unplug 3 connectors under the dash and the complete harness will come out of the car. Don't cut anything.

To tie into the S-15 for the LT1 you are looking at power feeds, VSS signal wire for the speedo which is programmable on the LT1 PCM, gauge signals, your ALDL wire and check engine light, VATS disable. That's pretty much it. Everything is done inside the car.

I have done a number of swaps and the LT1 harness set-up so far is easiest. I even swapped out my '93 9C1 Caprice TBI engine for a '94 LT1. Best mod ever.

Good support here if you decide to do it. I have the programming software, factory manuals, and experience.

If it was an OBD2 ('96) engine I'd be tempted to stuff it in my Dakota.

Wait, this is a 2wheel drive Blazer?

-- Edited by DaveM on Tuesday 18th of June 2013 10:09:11 AM

DaveM · ONTARIO

Looks like a '94, it will be an LT1 with a 4L60E trans . Perfect drivetrain for swaps. Easy wire harness, don't be scarred.

260hp/ 330 tq.

scott420p · BRAMPTON, ONT

Its a 1989 2wd gmc s15 extended cab. One other question is the 4l60e swap is that run from the lt1 pcm? Also thanks for answering all my questions Dave.

DaveM · ONTARIO

Yes the LT1 PCM controls the 4L60e. All shift points, firmness, lock-up are programmable to your liking.

Fuel pump and lines, which are nylon, come out of the LT1 car as well. Gives you the correct connectors at the fuel rails and easy routing.

scott420p · BRAMPTON, ONT

Thank you very much Dave, I'm sure I will have a couple more questions eventually. Now I just have to work a deal for a LT1, 4L60E and components.