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Post Info TOPIC: caustic cleaning


ONTARIO

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caustic cleaning
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OK, here's the picture of my "hot tank".
It's basically a steel drum, with a water tight lid. I got a heating element from an old water heater as well as a thermostat control. I drilled a hole on the side of the tank about 1" up from the bottom and welded a 1" NPT bung for the element to screw into. The coil that's seen in the picture is the capillary tubing for the temperature sensing bulb that get's fed into the tank about 2" from the top.

Inside the tank, I welded an expanded metal base about 2" up from the bottom. This is to prevent the parts being cleaned from damaging the heating element. I have the thermostat set around 140 degrees F.

I built this around 15 years ago, and it's always worked perfect. I use powdered caustic soda that I purchased from a chemical warehouse called Jacklyn Industries in Oshawa, but I think they are now in Mississauga. Liquid caustic soda is available from swimming pool places, because they use this stuff for raising the PH level of water, but I don't think it's as strong as the powdered soda.

If you try and clean anything made from aluminum, it will disappear, but will not harm steel, copper etc..

It will NOT remove rust, because it's a BASE !! You will need something ACIDIC to remove rust. 

Like someone mentioned in a previous thread, don't get it into your eyes because it will blind you !! If you do splash some on your skin, you'll know within a few seconds because it stings like a bugger, so be sure to rinse it off.

WEAR GOGGLES !!

BTW; the solution that is in my tank has been in there for almost 10 years, so there's no need to dump it after every use.That's why I said not to use your stainless tank because it had no lid. Occasionally you will need to add a bit of caustic soda because the solution will neutralize with use. 

hot tank.JPG







-- Edited by hemi43 on Friday 28th of June 2013 03:20:20 PM

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FOXBORO, ONT

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ok hemi i got off his thread to be polite, imagine that.

back to the caustic cleaning thingy.

  
 

sorry newagerod for the jack-up here but;

hemi43 "you have some splaining to du here loocy" LOL *dezi*
x-ok, after putting my 2 cents in on newrods inquiry about hardware and i mentioned i'd like a sonic and you tell me to save my money, Thank YOU. it had been awhile since i had snooped for one and after posting i went shopping for one and they have come down a lot on price. darn near pulled the trigger on a couple of them. heck of a deal for one in gay bay, san fransisco, but his shipping was high i thought. sent him a inquiry about it and am waiting the reply. luckily-maybe. i have a thick stainless tank cut in half length wise with a stainless approx 1 1/2" drain valve on it. probably would of been a 20-25 gal tank. i have had it for some years laying around out back and thinking someday it will have a use. lol its been close a couple of times to being gone.
-how much temp do i need for this caustic to do its job and for how long in the tank. i can rig a metal lid for it on hinges for a cover. but, i won't make stand for it from aluminum. lol go on a cleaning spree, clean it up and put it back outside, s/s, perfect. only other ? would be how do you dispose of the mess afterwards. if i find the tank to big i can always cut it down to suit. shoot me the recipe for this would ya.
x
--i am on a big car forum, fbbo, with guy's from around the world on it and when i mentioned the sonic thing nobody mentioned this caustic trick. interesting.
x
ps; if this thing works as you say, What kind of Beer do you prefer. lol i am darn near finishing another vehicle full of scrap for the scrap yard and was looking at the tank last week. funny

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  ok. i had to go look at this s/s tank and see whats up.
 
 
IMG_0356.JPGIMG_0355.JPG
 
 
its bigger than i thought but can be made to measure. i have a s/s valve for it here somewhere that can go on the bottom line, somewhere. like i said i have had it for awhile and i can't remember where i got it. knowing the business i am in it is probably something to do with food prep. the dimensions are L27-W24-H13 inch's. thing i like is i can use it and put it back outside. shoot me a recipe of sorts and any other tips as to heat and stuff and i will see what can come out of this. i wasn't looking at little sonics for jewelery and such so there is probably a little wiggle room on how much to spend to get what i want and it works. let me know your kind of beer.  lol             rick


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ETOBICOKE, ONT

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Citric Acid is caustic to metal but safe to use.

Just need to find place to buy in bulk.

HERE is write up on how it's used.

I'm a member of several Coleman Latern forums and that's what we use to clean carbon, rust, grime off almost century old lamps, lanterns, stoves.



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ONTARIO

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58Chev wrote:

Citric Acid is caustic to metal but safe to use.

Just need to find place to buy in bulk.

HERE is write up on how it's used.

I'm a member of several Coleman Latern forums and that's what we use to clean carbon, rust, grime off almost century old lamps, lanterns, stoves.


 How can "Citric Acid" be caustic??

Like I said in the fastener thread, give me a day or so and I will post what I built. BTW, that stainless tank won't work !!



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ETOBICOKE, ONT

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It will corrode/pit some soft metals, not at all caustic to skin.

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TRENTON, ONT

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I used to use caustic soda to strip paint from antique furniture and metal ornaments. Built my own tub. Built a stand about 2 feet high to hold an old bathtub. Fitted a drain valve where the drain was in the bottom. I cut a piece of wood to cover the downspout hole and ran a bolt through it to another piece of wood that was on the outside. Tighten the bolt as much as possible to prevent leaks. Built a lid out of plywood and hinges on the backside. MAIN THING TO REMEMBER!!!!! ADD SODA TO WATER. Boss found out the hard way that adding water to soda can be very harmful to lungs and chemical reaction was scary!! Invest in a good pair of rubber gloves!!


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BRADFORD, ONT

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Several years ago on Dennis Gage's "My Classic Car" they did a small piece on cleaning steel or iron parts. You need a tub or pail large enough to immerse parts. Pour in enough boiling water to cover part. Add a container or more of "Crystal Drain Cleaner" like DRANO add part, let sit about 15 minutes. Hook with metal wire or clothes hanger to pull out and rinse with clean hot or ambient temperature water. Dry and paint. Looks like NEW! When done pour drain cleaner down the drain. Clean parts, clean drains, what an idea! IT WORKS!

I just bought a kettle to use on my outdoor propane burner (Corn Boiler) that will boil water outside.

the Kid

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CLARINGTON, ONTARIO

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Anyone ever use the rust cleaner liquid the guy at Barrie sells? I had some a while back and it worked like bloody magic on rusty steel. The only thing that bothers me is that it says to not use it on steering and suspension parts or something like that because it chemically brittles metal if left in too long...or somethingorother.

But does it ever dissolve rust.

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St THOMAS, ONT

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If you're looking for something to remove rust, look no further than molasses. It will not attack steel, copper, brass etc. I get my molasses at a feed store, 5 gal. at a time, and mix it about 1 to 7 with water, and use a plastic 45 gal. barrel. If the part is greasy, you gotta get rid of grease, oil, etc first. It works slow, but its safe.



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CLARINGTON, ONTARIO

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I've heard about using molasses...there is something you can mix with it to make it work faster...vinegar?

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ETOBICOKE, ONT

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2inchestoolow wrote:

I've heard about using molasses...there is something you can mix with it to make it work faster...vinegar?


Electrolysis.

 

I think is the only way to speed up the molasses process.



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St THOMAS, ONT

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58Chev wrote:
2inchestoolow wrote:

I've heard about using molasses...there is something you can mix with it to make it work faster...vinegar?


Electrolysis.

 

I think is the only way to speed up the molasses process.


 Never heard of using electrolysis with molasses, but if you add borax to water, and put in grounding lugs around the mixture, put a charger between rusty part and lugs, it will dislove the rust. Even heard of using a welder for the power source.

Molasses is cheaper and safer, and me being a chicken **** and all .....................................



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LONDON, ONT

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I'm with Parklane on this one.  When I was building my 29 I had some really rusty stuff to get clean.  I built a 4 X 6 tub out of 2x4's and heavy plastic vapour barrier. It was big enough to get the doors, 1/4's,  trunk lid etc. in it. The big stuff went to a buddy for sandblasting.  it's kind of nice to set something in the tub and pull it out after a few days and see clean metal.

The only way to hurry up molasses is to heat it.  I had a friend in Prince George BC, some of you know him as well, that had a BIG ( think frames whole bodies etc.) heated tank of molasses and he said it took about 1/3 the time of an unheated tank.



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CLARINGTON, ONTARIO

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I'm experimenting with the molasses process right now.

I went to my local "Co-op" and bought two four litre jugs of feed grade molasses for a grand total of just under $12 taxes in. I mixed it 7:1 in a big plastics tote and tossed a bunch of parts from my tractor resto project in there. After one day the fan is showing fairly impressive results.

 

edit: this is the before shot
image.jpg

 

 

26 hours later...

 



-- Edited by 2inchestoolow on Wednesday 31st of July 2013 10:30:34 PM

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CLARINGTON, ONTARIO

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I can't see my after pic...did it show up?

Let's try this again.
image.jpg

 

Dammit....same pic again on my screen.



-- Edited by 2inchestoolow on Wednesday 31st of July 2013 10:28:58 PM

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CLARINGTON, ONTARIO

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For some reason it wants to post the same pics...what a tease post. no



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FOXBORO, ONT

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and thats in one day--impressive

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NORTH BAY, ONT

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Thanks, it will be interesting to follow this project and see how this works out.

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ONTARIO

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Damn !! How am I supposed to go to bed now ??

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CLARINGTON, ONTARIO

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image.jpg

Still awake Dan?

 

Here is the fan after just under a week in feed grade molasses. The "fancy" kitchen type seems to be working but not showing the results that this stuff is.

It seems to be working well on some parts and not as well on others. I'm blaming the fact that some of the parts may have had some oily residue on them.



-- Edited by 2inchestoolow on Wednesday 7th of August 2013 07:26:58 AM



-- Edited by 2inchestoolow on Wednesday 7th of August 2013 07:28:18 AM

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ONTARIO

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Thanks for that post !! Real interesting. This process would save tons of hours sandblasting. I'll have to try it.
Going to bed now !! LOL

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St THOMAS, ONT

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The molasses dip will not cut through grease, but sure knocks the crap outa rust. I've had a pair of spindle soaking now for a coupla years! Should be good & clean now.



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CLARINGTON, ONTARIO

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Molasses is a clear winner!

This steering arm was very rusty...pulled it out today after a couple of weeks and gave it a rinse in water only...and it looks almost freshly cast.

image.jpg



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CLARINGTON, ONTARIO

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image.jpgSo, the molasses tub has achieved a new level of stank (my kids are begging me to dump it because they have to walk past it iin the garage) and literally looks like ****....but works like magic.



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