the compressor pump should cycle as the system demands more coolant to maintain whatever temp you have set. if theres no engagement its likely the clutch is shot or its not being energized to engage, which may be a sensor in the system. the clutch can be changed without compromising your ac charge. if its still sealed with pressure the system is likely ok
So my AC was working when I got the truck in March, but now when I need it, it's not working.
I bought the re-seal recharge and hose kit, but when I hooked it up, it's already showing full pressure.
The compressor clutch spins as it should when the engine is running, and there's air blowing inside the cab, but it's just not cold.
Any ideas?
I have a horrible feeling my compressor is screwed, even though there's pressure in the system ;-(
Hopefully you did not inject the sealant when you saw the pressure was OK.
When you say the clutch is spinning, do you mean only the pulley or the whole compressor?? When the compressor is disengaged, the front plate of the clutch should not be spinning. When it is engaged, it will be spinning.
Putting sealant in an AC system is just a temporary fix, and may cause more problems down the road. Have someone that knows automotive AC systems to take a look at it, and hopefully it just needs a bit more refrigerant because the system is in fact 15 years old. Make sure the person doing the work uses virgin 134a, and dont get duped into using a hydrocarbon based refrigerant like 12a.
With the engine running, and the AC switch at OFF, the front plate does not spin
With the engine running, and the AC switch at ON, the front plate spins, however, it does seem a bit noisy.
I suppose I should look at some schematics of how an AC system works.
With the engine running, and the AC switch at OFF, the front plate does not spin With the engine running, and the AC switch at ON, the front plate spins, however, it does seem a bit noisy.
I suppose I should look at some schematics of how an AC system works.
OK, good !! You didn't mention if you injected that sealant or not. Losing a bit of refrigerant is normal especially on an older system, and more so because it's 134a because the molecules are so much smaller than R12.
It just sounds like you're a bit low on 134a. If you know someone with gauges, hook them up and take a pressure reading. What you want to look for is a low side of about 30 PSI and the high side could be anywhere between 175- 275 depending on ambient temperature and design of the system. Hopefully the truck's fans will be on which will bring down the high side. Too bad you're so damn far away, Dave, or I would help you out.
If you find the clutch is a bit noisy when engaged, check the front of it and make sure there's no hair line cracks in the riveted tabs ( not sure what compressor you have), if it looks good, then just turn your radio up a bit.
Keep us posted on what you find out. If you have any friends going to Syracuse, get them to bring back a couple of one pound 134a recharge kits which can be purchased at Wal-mart. Unfortunately our great Canadian Government does not allow us to be able to purchase it here.
Dave if you need a compressor i have a new ford one taking up space .Number on it is WAG F1SE-AA 28lb/hr Not sure if thats the correct # as it came with a bunch of ford experimental stuff 97 -98 vintage If you need it its yours.
be careful of your fingers .... with a c system engaged and running feel the large and small a c lines one should be hot , not killer hot but a bit hot , the other in this weather should be colder then a beer and probably sweating condensation .
check to see if one of the heater hose lines has a valve in it to shut off the hot coolant flow to htr core . move temp control full hot , note position of valve then full cold and check it again . tHAT BABY STILL PROBABLY HAS FERDS BRIGHTER IDEAS FOR VAC CINTROLLED HEATER BOX oopps , check to see if you can hear doors or flaps moving under the dash when going from hot to cold , with engine running ..77.
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I,m as cool as Milner , but axeually a bit more like Beckwith