If you're trying to install the spring with both ball joints connected, the spring will never fit . disconnect the lower joint and compress the spring as much as you can. Install the spring in it's perches and raise the lower control arm with a floor jack until you can reconnect the lower ball joint. You can then remove your compression tool. If you need a bit more room, remove the upper urethane bump stop.
You could get a shop to compress and strap the springs, but you already have a tool so there's no need. I don't like strapping springs, because it's almost impossible to remove 100% of the straps.
-- Edited by hemi43 on Sunday 20th of October 2013 11:33:56 AM
Dan is correct on this try to just slip the top of the spring into it's home then use the floor jack to raise the lower control up till you can get the lower ball joint tied down ..With no sheet metal or drive train your floor jack may just lift and twist the whole frame with-out being able to compress the spring enough to tie the lower ball joint in place ..So you will either need to tie the frame to the floor or like Dan said use a chain to tie the frame to the axel of the floor jack..Frank be carefull people have been hurt doing this ..So check it twice and keep your eye on it whilst your doing it..I have also seen frames twisted trying to do this without haveing the drive train in place I would personaly either wait or set my engine in the frame bay to keep the frame from twisting if you do not have a good enough spring compressor..Having a shop compress and tie them would scare the hell outa me ..they are mean suckers I still have a scar on my eye brow where a coil spring put me to sleep for a couple minutes many,many years ago..be safe...work safe.. and smart..
-- Edited by fatchuk on Sunday 20th of October 2013 12:40:05 PM
with the spring compressed as much as you can swing the lower control arm down out of the way. put one end of the spring into the frame spring cup then bring the lower control arm up until the spring just fits around the edge of the spring cup on the control arm. now you just start jacking the lower control arm back into position. if the car raises up off the jackstands due to not having an engine trans in the car you can fab up some threaded rod that mounts in place of the shock and put the spring installation on hold until the engine/trans are back in ....... or call a bunch of neighbours over and have them weight down the car by sitting in it/standing in the engine compartment etc.
when you do install the spring make sure the spring compressor is facing the right way so you can remove it throught the shock mount in the lower control arm.
-- Edited by not as drunk as you thinkle peep I am on Sunday 20th of October 2013 02:52:41 PM
-- Edited by not as drunk as you thinkle peep I am on Sunday 20th of October 2013 09:49:08 PM
I'm in the process of putting my front end back together but I can not compress my coil spring enough to put the steering arm on.
I have heard that some shops will compress and strap the coils, is this best? Is there anyone here that can do this?
I'm sure my Chinese junk can't hold up to the amount of compression I need. Well I can't seem to compress any further. Already compressed about 3.5" and I'm very afraid to keep going.
I should have mentioned that I was trying to install the coil with the spindle not on the ball joints.
I just cant get the coil compressed enough to fit the spindle. I attached the spindle just to see how much the coil should be compressed. I still need another 1.5" or more.
The spring compressor will only get you close. You will still need a floor jack to compress the spring that last little bit. Since you don't have an engine in the car (weight) it may be a bit more difficult, so you may have to use a chain from your frame to your floor jack to be able to generate enough pressure.
ThanX for the input guys.. Chuk I do know the hazards of coil springs. A few years ago I put a lift kit on a Jeep I had and those coils were much longer.
I got one side in, compressed the spring as much as I could. Used the floor jack and still just 1/2 to go.. UGH.. I removed the upper control arm bumper and that gave me enough of a drop to get the crown nut on.
Is it a GM with the shock mounted in the spring? If so the flat rate way was to stick the spring up in the top cup then drop the compressor bolt down through the shock hole threading it into the hooks. Put the hooks on the second from the bottom coil wrap and use your impact to pull it into the frame then use your jack to swing the control arm close enough to start the castle nut.Has worked for years but I have seen another way of compressing springs. There was a collision and alignment shop in Kitchener years ago that also ran an excavating business as well. One guy used the loader bucket to compress the springs while another wrapped coat hanger around them. Nobody died or lost an appendage but we ran as fast as we could so it would not be one of us.
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Keep your stick on the ice and don't pull your goalie.
I'm in the process of putting my front end back together but I can not compress my coil spring enough to put the steering arm on.
I have heard that some shops will compress and strap the coils, is this best? Is there anyone here that can do this?
I'm sure my Chinese junk can't hold up to the amount of compression I need. Well I can't seem to compress any further. Already compressed about 3.5" and I'm very afraid to keep going.
if you have acces to a steel strapping setup, just compress the coil and put 3 straps on it, that will hold, then install and cut the straps. i know of another method using a floor jack and some chain but not the safest way to do it
My Springs get compressed the most on the way home from the Beer Store!
....But seriously, you should be able to take that spring right down to coil bind using that compressor without trouble - That's the one I use too! Just keep in mind the energy stored is tremendous and it's linear from the ends not radial from the sides - be gentle!
-- Edited by Fordy Acres Car Farm on Monday 21st of October 2013 05:17:47 PM
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"If I could get back all the money I've ever spent on cars...I'd spend it ALL on cars !!!
CTC also lend tools. I also have a Snapon spring compressor, but it does not fit through some lower control arms, so I use the threaded rod when needed. I like to have my own tools as I am about 30 min from any parts supplier and when I decide to do a job I want to do it at my own pace and timing. I also have a Henry built hyd press to remove bushings etc in control arms etc.
Henry, I like the theory of your compresser but the fact that it is held together with threaded rod and coupler nuts scares the hell out of me, this hardware is closer to a grade two quality then five or the optimal grade eight that I would begin to somewhat trust! Be careful nan,I'd rather meet you at a show than as a gathering of friends from the forum at a memorial....
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Buying selling and trading garage toys and big kid stuff.
Yea Chris there are better places to meet each other. No matter what type of spring comp we use I always insist on chaining the spring to the frame. The threaded rod is either grade 5 or grade 8, which we used a lot of in pulling couplings and bearings while working in the papermill.
