so I has this Tahoe im putting together to drive, pedal was way down and it has new brakes all the way around I so I changed the master cylinder. I am still having a problem getting a firm pedal. I do recall reading that some gm trucks and cars are difficult to bleed through the abs system and require pressurized bleeding, is this true? its a 97 Tahoe and I swear I have the air bled out but pedal goes about a third down not running and can be pushed almost to the floor while running, no brake light on and it does stop ok. any ideas?
Oh !! OK then !!
Fill the master cylinder with fluid and apply vacuum to the bleed nipple using a manual vacuum bleeder to remove any air trapped in the ABS module. You're welcome!!
I have a 96 gmc. Pedal is the same . I can push it to within an inch of the floor but it stops fine and no lights. Put 300k on this with 3 brake jobs and its always the same pedal. Dont know if that helps.
oh ya bench bled it, all lines are good as it was just inspected for a safety and I have it back doing the stuff needed to pass. i have fluid flowing to all corners and no air im sure but still a semi soft pedal. maybe that's the way its suppose to be.
No doubt, this year has been a great one for guys plowing snow. (By the job, not good for the guys who bid on big parking lots etc for XX# of dollars, and diesel jumping up in price to $1.49 in places!)
( Oh,,,, and your'e posting wording was fine!!!!!) Lol
That could just be the way they are if they stop fine . Trick I always used on cycle front wheel disk was to pump the fluid in trough the bleeder and push the air out the master 3 foot vertical drop the air would just keep going to the top otherwise. they sell kits now to do this bit more professional then an oiler and hose with gear clamps.
That could just be the way they are if they stop fine . Trick I always used on cycle front wheel disk was to pump the fluid in trough the bleeder and push the air out the master 3 foot vertical drop the air would just keep going to the top otherwise. they sell kits now to do this bit more professional then an oiler and hose with gear clamps.
It's called a Phoenix injector, you can vacuum bleed or reverse bleed as you explained. Reverse bleeding is your best option to get a firm pedal.
do you have shop key ?? . some gm,s require a bleed process , use bleed bottle , push pedal down smooth slow , take a few seconds to do it , pause at bottom , let up slow an smooth . wait 15 seconds ( ??) repeat .
something to do with gm,s style of quick take up master cylinders ..77.
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I,m as cool as Milner , but axeually a bit more like Beckwith
I'm thinking that GM likely didn't arc weld that pedal assembly and now because of those pathatic weak welds, the whole thing is just flexing - causing the pedal to go almost to the floor. I wouldn't trust it!
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"If I could get back all the money I've ever spent on cars...I'd spend it ALL on cars !!!
well im bringing the truck back to the garage to be re inspected so i told them to check it and if they feel its not right to go ahead and make it right. i dont have a pressure bleeder so im not wasting anymore time on it
No doubt, this year has been a great one for guys plowing snow. (By the job, not good for the guys who bid on big parking lots etc for XX# of dollars, and diesel jumping up in price to $1.49 in places!) ( Oh,,,, and your'e posting wording was fine!!!!!) Lol
ive been killing it this year, thankfully i dont have any contracts, i plow on a per snowfall basis, so far im over 2000 dollars in plowing as of the end of jan
I was trying out my new Library card and typed in brake bleeding for your Tahoe. I copied the procedure but the diagrams won't copy for some reason. One of the diagrams looks like they have a fixture that is holding a valve in the proportioning valve during the bleeding procedure.
Calipers & Wheel Cylinders
Animations and Tech Tips
Click to view: Inspect brake lines, hoses, and connections
To bleed the brakes on a vehicle equipped with ABS, please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure in this section.
The brake system must be bled when any brake line is disconnected or there is air in the system.
Never bleed a wheel cylinder when a drum is removed.
1. Clean the master cylinder of excess dirt and remove the cylinder cover and the diaphragm.
2. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level. Check the fluid level periodically during the bleeding process and replenish it as necessary. Do not allow the master cylinder to run dry, or you will have to start over.
3. Before opening any of the bleeder screws, you may want to give each one a shot of penetrating solvent. This reduces the possibility of breakage when they are unscrewed.
Connect one end of a clear plastic tube to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in clean brake fluid
Click to Enlarge
Have an assistant pump, then hold in the brake pedal, while you bleed each wheel
Click to Enlarge
Using the combination valve depressor-R/V Series
Click to Enlarge
Using the combination valve depressor-C/K Series
Click to Enlarge
4. Attach a length of vinyl hose to the bleeder screw of the brake to be bled. Insert the other end of the hose into a clear jar half full of clean brake fluid, so that the end of the hose is beneath the level of fluid. The correct sequence for bleeding is to work from the brake farthest from the master cylinder to the one closest; right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
5. The combination valve must be held open during the bleeding process. A clip, tape, or other similar tool (or an assistant) will hold the metering pin in.
6. Depress and release the brake pedal three or four times to exhaust any residual vacuum.
7. Have an assistant push down on the brake pedal and hold it down. Open the bleeder valve slightly. As the pedal reaches the end of its travel, close the bleeder screw and release the brake pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles are visible in the expelled fluid.
Make sure your assistant presses the brake pedal to the floor slowly. Pressing too fast will cause air bubbles to form in the fluid.
8. Repeat this procedure at each of the brakes. Remember to check the master cylinder level occasionally. Use only fresh fluid to refill the master cylinder, not the stuff bled from the system.
9. When the bleeding process is complete, refill the master cylinder, install its cover and diaphragm, and discard the fluid bled from the brake system.
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What's the point of writing a response if its only going to get deleted.
Hey Stax, I have had the same problem with my 96 Chev bled the hell out of it and same thing, best way to do is to vacum bleed out thru the wheel cyls. works great,regular bleeding won't work with the ABS.
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If it has Tits,Tires or a Track,your gonna have a problem with it.
I bought one of those Pheonix injectors couple years ago and it works slick. I have done 5-6 bleed jobs last year and helped do couple hydraulic clutch bleeds. Pushing the fluid up takes the guess work out of it.
Funny how all my buddys want to borrow it now...rent is a King can of my choice.
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gotta be young and dumb before you get old and wise
