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Post Info TOPIC: 1950-52 Carter YF 2100S


CLINTON, ONT

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1950-52 Carter YF 2100S
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My friend Andrews truck has been in Canada for a year...    Its been in my garage since last fall....  

The truck ran for a 1/4 mile and quit last spring   He flushed gas tank, and replaced cap and rotor and wires.  Rebuilt the Carter YF and replaced intake and exhaust  gaskets..  

IT WILL NOT RUN    Its got fuel pressure from pump   If you spray it with brake clean it will run for seconds  

Andrew says get a new carb!!  

Bright me reads about a W1 Carter   I buy a re-built W1 from E-bay  beautiful carb!!  

duh  doesn't fit   stupid me   wrong bolt battern  YF is 2 15/16  W1 is different    

I cleaned the tag on the door and confirmed its a 1949 3100  

I checked engine and theres no serial on engine  shaved off   the block is 3835692  so its had a engine change to 50-52 235

 

so does anyone have a running YF carb 2100S ??    I checked with Bills Truck Shop and he won't ship carbs   

 

 need help   price not a issue     Carl   

100_3124.jpg

 

 



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COBOURG, ONT

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sounds like the float is stuck closed, those old carbs are pretty simple, perhaps take it apart and inspect it internally



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CLINTON, ONT

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Thanks I will  we rebuilt it and had it apart several times     if not    its going into a shed   Andrew has no patience for gasser  he a real diesel guy   he bought the 49 on a whim  



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NORTH BAY, ONT

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Carl, this problem is pretty simple. Will it keep running if you trickle gas into the carb?

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CLINTON, ONT

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I"m not sure   Andrews mechanic re-built it     I never tried a gas trickle   maybe I should ?    love to get it running so we can move it around

I'll put YF back on tomorrow and try just some gas with a pop bottle ?   It does run with brake clean sprayed in   thanks     



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NORTH BAY, ONT

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An empty windex bottle with the pump sprayer works good.
The W-1 carb is correct for the 49, maybe the intake and carb was changed?
As fastax posted the needle could be stuck in.

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CLINTON, ONT

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Truck was bought from original owner in Colorado  has a bull low 4 speed and a 235 from 50-52  :)



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DUNDAS, ONT

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.For some reason you are not getting  gas heres a link to the yf rebuild settings . once the carb is primed  you should be able to see the gas shoot out

 http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/carb/carter/52carter1.html

I have a hard copy of the 2105s (auto choke) and the information is the same other then the choke  setup. I can e mail you a copy if needed .PM







-- Edited by slim on Thursday 20th of March 2014 07:01:13 AM

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ONTARIO

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Fill the float bowl trough the vent tube. Use a water bottle with a small hole, read SMALL hole, in the lid. See if it will run.

Does Bill's Truck Stop have a new carb?  Perhaps a local could pick it up there and ship it to you.wink

 

Oh, and break clean is not a good thing to spray into an engine.no

 



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COBOURG, ONT

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bring the carb to me, i could very easily fix it, i think i may even have a rebuild kit for it.  if the engine runs on a combustible sprayed into the engine you know it will run.



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DUNDAS, ONT

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From the original description of the problem I would think its rust or dirt stuck in the low speed circuit. no you cant buy a new one and the only other replacement would be a rochester b that puke gas that will be a mixture of used clapped out parts. The yf is the best single barrel carb you can put on a 235 . easier just to find out what the problem is because there could be more problems with a replacement. 



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COBOURG, ONT

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theres a pile of these on ebay, various years and models so you might find one there.  there are some new ones i saw as well. 

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/carter-1bbl-yf-1971-ford-1971-72-ford-truck-6-cyl-200-eng-/170983510453?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27cf6951b5&vxp=mtr



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DUNDAS, ONT

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fatstax wrote:

theres a pile of these on ebay, various years and models so you might find one there.  there are some new ones i saw as well. 

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/carter-1bbl-yf-1971-ford-1971-72-ford-truck-6-cyl-200-eng-/170983510453?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27cf6951b5&vxp=mtr


 Problem with this one you will run out of steam at the top end with out going back and changing a bunch of stuff. These along with the rochester b were built for dozens of different cars they look the same on the outside but that's where similarities end. remans are usually a rag tag mixture of whatever parts they have because they rebuild them in batch lots. without taking it back apart and checking you could have anything in there . Rebuild kits can be as big of a gamble unless you get them from a specialty shop. To give you an idea here is a list of yf carb for chev I6


Here is a listing of the Carter type YF specifically produced for Chevrolet. Somewhere, I have a similar list for Stromberg.

List:

CarterYF carburetors produced for use on Chevrolet

756s – 216 engine aftermarket 1937~1952
787s – 216 engine aftermarket 1937~1952
788s – 235 engine aftermarket 1950~1952
789s – 235 engine aftermarket 1950~1952
890s – 235 engine aftermarket manual choke (number assigned, no production)
891s – 235 engine aftermarket auto choke (number assigned, no production)
964s – 216 engine aftermarket manual choke 1937~1952
965s – 216 engine aftermarket auto choke 1937~1952
966s – 235 engine aftermarket auto choke 1950~1952
967s – 235 engine aftermarket manual choke 1950~1952
2008s – 216 engine aftermarket 1937~1952
2046s – 206 engine aftermarket 1932~1936
2100s – 235 engine aftermarket manual choke 1953~1956
2101s – 235 engine aftermarket auto choke 1953~1956
2104s – 261 engine aftermarket (number assigned, no production)
3055s – aftermarket (number assigned, no production)
3211s – 235 engine aftermarket 1957~1962
3379s – 153 engine original equipment manual trans 1962~1966
3402s – 153 engine original equipment auto trans 1962~1966
3711s – 194 engine aftermarket 1962
3760s – 230 engine (number assigned, no production)
3770s – 230 engine (taxi) original equipment auto transmission 1964~1965
3771s – 230 engine (taxi) original equipment manual trans 1964~1965
3772s – 194 engine auto transmission (number assigned, no production) 1964
3773s – 194 engine manual trans (number assigned, no production) 1964
3821s – 194 engine (van) original equipment 1964
3946s – 194 engine aftermarket 1964~1965
3946s – 230 engine aftermarket 1964~1965
3975s – 230 engine (van) original equipment manual trans 1965
3976s – 230 engine (van) original equipment auto trans 1965
4043s – 194 engine (van) original equipment manual trans 1966
4043s – 230 engine (van) original equipment manual trans 1966
4044s – 194 engine (van) original equipment auto trans 1966
4044s – 230 engine (van) original equipment auto trans 1966
4048s – 230 engine (van) aftermarket experimental 1963~1966
4072s – 194 engine original equipment auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4072s – 230 engine original equipment auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4073s – 194 engine original equipment manual trans CALIF smog 1966
4073s – 230 engine original equipment manual trans CALIF smog 1966
4080s – 194 engine original equipment (pass) auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4080s – 230 engine original equipment (pass) auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4080s – 250 engine original equipment (pass) auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4085s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1966
4085s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1966
4086s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4086s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4145s – 194 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans 1965~1966
4145s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans 1965~1966
4202s – 250 engine (taxi) original equipment auto trans 1966
4203s – 250 engine (taxi) original equipment manual trans 1966
4278s – (export to India)
4339s – 194 engine aftermarket 1963~1967
4339s – 230 engine aftermarket 1963~1967
4339s – 250 engine aftermarket 1963~1967
4367s – 230 engine original equipment manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4367s – 250 engine original equipment manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4368s – 194 engine original equipment auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4368s – 230 engine original equipment auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4368s – 250 engine original equipment auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4369s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4369s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4370s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4370s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4371s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4371s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4371s – 292 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4372s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4373s – 153 engine aftermarket manual trans 1963~1967
4374s – 153 engine aftermarket auto trans 1963~1967
4375s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans 1967
4375s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans 1967
4376s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans 1967
4376s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans 1967
4377s – 250 engine original equipment (taxi) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4378s – 250 engine original equipment (taxi) auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4387s – 194 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4480s – 230 engine aftermarket (all Federal) 1963~1967
4480s – 250 engine aftermarket (all Federal) 1963~1967
4492s – 194 engine aftermarket 1962
6213s – number assigned no production


This list taken directly from the Carter files. Note there are a few listed as "number assigned, no production". These were experimental carbs that were never produced. Unless I slipped up (certainly possible) this list is COMPLETE for the YF's for Chevrolet. There are many other YF's for other applications.

Jon.
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-- Edited by slim on Thursday 20th of March 2014 12:17:58 PM

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COBOURG, ONT

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well of course you do your homework and find a carb with similiar jetting and cfm rating.  i wouldnt put a carb from a straight six on a big block, they may fit but wont work right.  i also do some research and make sure the supplier knows what they are selling too.  nothing worse then laying out hard earned cash only to get stuff that is no good or wont work.



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CLINTON, ONT

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I'm back biggrin   spoke to mechanic today    

It seems the carb, before and after re-build  FLOODED the engine and fowled the plugs!!    with gas hooked up it flooded....with no gas hooked up it would run on a shot of BC

Andrew and mechanic thing its a "Altitude" problem   Truck lived its life on the "top of mountain" in Colorado...

 

I am proficient at removing and replacing...  but I don't take carbs apart...     I thought I was doing the easy thing, by buying, a rebuilt W1 for 200 bucks

 

We live 60 miles north of London close to Bayfield  

 

 



-- Edited by 427CARL on Thursday 20th of March 2014 01:31:11 PM

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COBOURG, ONT

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sounds like a poor rebuild, gas is either getting in when it shouldnt or leaking in from a seal or gasket



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CLINTON, ONT

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I wondered that... confuse 

Mechanic is a tractor hobbyist and has rebuild carbs before   Hes Excellent on Diesels      

I guess I better finish the interior trim next week

and push it outside  

 

 

  Thanks for all you replies     Carl @ Clinton  



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DUNDAS, ONT

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I already sold all the stuff off chris58s 235 but he said he had the carb done by a guy in or around london .



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ST MARYS, ONTARIO

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Was the carb rebuilt? or did it just get a kit in it..big difference..doesit have a brass float or a cellulous one..have you actually  had the carb on it or seen what is does.. have you tried to run it with the top off the carb to watch and see what may be happening with float, needle and seat, pump well??? they are about as simple a carb as you can get..It should be easy  but I have said that before and then had to marry her, never trust a girl with peanut butter legs...biggrin.. is your shop heated?? I hate the cold..and like I said before I have seen easy and sometimes it's easier said ...I am not to far away and could maybe find a time to come by ..where sactly is you....I am just off 23 by the cemetery north of Kirkton...on line 10 like to keep my eye on the cemetery make sure they keep the lawn cut, flowers watered and side walks clear in winter in case I get company I hate being alone all winter down there..disbelief You couls also try to check out the stove bolt forum to see if anybody there has an sea-foam fix or a silver bullet..



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CLINTON, ONT

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fatchuk wrote:

Was the carb rebuilt? or did it just get a kit in it..big difference..doesit have a brass float or a cellulous one..have you actually  had the carb on it or seen what is does.. have you tried to run it with the top off the carb to watch and see what may be happening with float, needle and seat, pump well??? they are about as simple a carb as you can get..It should be easy  but I have said that before and then had to marry her, never trust a girl with peanut butter legs...biggrin.. is your shop heated?? I hate the cold..and like I said before I have seen easy and sometimes it's easier said ...I am not to far away and could maybe find a time to come by ..where sactly is you....I am just off 23 by the cemetery north of Kirkton...on line 10 like to keep my eye on the cemetery make sure they keep the lawn cut, flowers watered and side walks clear in winter in case I get company I hate being alone all winter down there..disbelief You couls also try to check out the stove bolt forum to see if anybody there has an sea-foam fix or a silver bullet..


          The mechanic installed a "kit"   I have not had it running, or looked "in" it    

          If I took it apart confuse it would never go together again no  I have the patience of a 2 year old biggrin  I'd thrown it in the garbage.... Yes I would 

          I would ship it somewhere, if someone would re-build it and receive large sums of money via Pay Pal or E transfer    

          The carb is off and sitting     really no rush I can pull tne truck out and push in if I get a day that looks like spring  (make that summer) 



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ONTARIO

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427CARL wrote:

          

          If I took it apart confuse it would never go together again no  I have the patience of a 2 year old biggrin  I'd thrown it in the garbage.... Yes I would 

     


 Then what are you doing on a "Hot Rodder " forum ?? biggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrin



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DUNDAS, ONT

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I could do it for you but Chuck is a lot closer all the information he would need is here

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/carb/carter/52carter1.html

It has a brass float so even if it leaks they are easy to repair Information here under troubleshooting - brass float

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm



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CLINTON, ONT

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hemi43 wrote:
427CARL wrote:

          

          If I took it apart confuse it would never go together again no  I have the patience of a 2 year old biggrin  I'd thrown it in the garbage.... Yes I would 

     


                  Then what are you doing on a "Hot Rodder " forum ?? biggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrin


                            Hmm   trying to find a good answer    

                           I did cut the floor out of 92 Sunbird with a sawsall and installed 32 inches of S10 frame and a Killer Racing 355 V8  

                          but I throw little things a long distance (carbs)  

                           and so I come on here, to get help from all the old smarty pants  winkwinkwinkwinkwink



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ST MARYS, ONTARIO

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Carl..If for some reason you are in my area passing through you could drop that carb with me to take a look at if your not in a must have to-day thing..I am doing some renos in the house right now but if you can leave it with me and if you have the old kit left that he used I would like that with it I will take it apart and see if I can figure out whats going on....Chuk



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CLINTON, ONT

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OK   thank you   



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