Thanks Dan.
Very informative post,..... ha.

I think I will go gray and keep the interior a bit lighter so I can see what's going on there.
Dark colours and old eyes can't see shlitz these days.

How about primer colour before final paint?
Black for dark colours, grey for lighter paints?

For instance, what colour primer is under your red paint?

Something i have wondered about also Joe

Tell us Dan

Your posts are always informative and Topical

Thank you in advance for your insightful answer

Hey Dan...Were you on the US DuPont site or the Canadian site? I don't see the numbers you said on the Canadian site although the DTS is still there but at a much lower VOC rating. The Numbers I saw were v-2910s, v-2940s, v-2970s DTS Epoxy primer sealer.

Have a look here. I might be wrong.
dpcprd.asp.dupont.com/bowstreet5/webengine/dpc/common/Controller/Action!_pageDispatcher/InnerModel!dpc/modules/Login/OuterModel!dpc/common/Controller/InnerAction!visitorAction

Rich

 

Go to the products tap top center , then technical info on far left.

-- Edited by slab on Sunday 20th of April 2014 05:28:06 PM

I painted a hood and a trunk lid for a car I used to owned several years ago. I bought the paint from Napa/UAP. The woman working the paint counter suggested I tint the primer to match the final colour. The thinking behind her suggestion was that if I get stone chips that knock off some paint and show primer but not bare metal, the chips will be almost invisible due to the primer being the same colour. There is some sense in that line of thinking.

DB Cooper wrote:

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I painted a hood and a trunk lid for a car I used to owned several years ago. I bought the paint from Napa/UAP. The woman working the paint counter suggested I tint the primer to match the final colour. The thinking behind her suggestion was that if I get stone chips that knock off some paint and show primer but not bare metal, the chips will be almost invisible due to the primer being the same colour. There is some sense in that line of thinking.

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Now that makes sense.

 

I know once I get driving my rod, if,  I ever get driving my rod, I won't do any maintenance of the paint.

Well, that looks like a pain in the butt ($$$) when it's time to paint my rad. I was hoping to just clean it up with soap and water and hit it with black epoxy.

123pugsy wrote:

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Well, that looks like a pain in the butt ($$$) when it's time to paint my rad. I was hoping to just clean it up with soap and water and hit it with black epoxy.

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 I'll bring the conversion coating products with me on Saturday.I have some left over. All you'll need is the epoxy.

All this stuff sounds complicated, but the aluminum conversion coating is basically the same as a "metal prep" for steel. The only difference is that when aluminum is treated, it has to be neutralized and that's why it's a 2-step system. 

-- Edited by hemi43 on Sunday 20th of April 2014 10:07:53 PM

34guy wrote:

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so helpful of you dan

Great post by the way

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 Why, thank-you Joe !! 

Thoughtful post !!

Thanks

MANCAVER wrote:

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Thank you Dan for sharing your knowledge and to you, Joe, for your congenial and supportive attitude!!

Once again, thank you!!

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 Thanks Ray, Errrrr ,I mean Roger !!

PM sent

hemi43 wrote:

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123pugsy wrote:

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Thanks Dan.
Very informative post,..... ha.

I think I will go gray and keep the interior a bit lighter so I can see what's going on there.
Dark colours and old eyes can't see shlitz these days.

How about primer colour before final paint?
Black for dark colours, grey for lighter paints?

For instance, what colour primer is under your red paint?

---

 I sprayed a white sealer over the high build, but the red I used is a very high hiding colour so it really didn't matter what colour went under the paint. Primer(or sealer) colour only comes into effect when spraying low hiding top coats. Dupont has a "value shade" system that ranges from white to dark grey (1 to 7)and the idea is to used the shade that is closest to your colour. This is done to save paint (finish colour) Complicated, but not really.

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 This thread has lots of good info but there is more....

Value shade by Dupont is a sealer that is only sold by the gallon.  It is a three colour system as Dan said white gallon, a middle grey gallon and a dark grey gallon.  Usually you need to mix two of the colours to get the value shade for the colour you are using.  Each gallon of paint/sealer is close to three hundred bucks last time I checked.   My point is It ain't cheap and if you want to use it you might be better off buying some(or trying) from a body shop that uses it.  Or if you get lucky a supplier that will mix it for you to the amount you need. My suppliers didn't do this, and it was a gallon or nothing. I was told by the suppliers that in reality , the body shops didn't use it either because of the expense and they normally just use a grey high build urethane primer as the final under paint product which is not too far off what the value shade is for most colours.  Is this the "by the book" method...no but the reality is not many (in my area anyway) seem to be paying what it takes to go by the book.  I used to use an acrylic sealer premixed by the quart that worked very well from Dupont but of course the new VOC laws got rid of that.  I know Matrix uses an over reduced Epoxy for a sealer which they have 3 different colours of but ...two problems:1 Napa is only carrying top coats and clears by Matrix at this point. 2- I have read by some reliable sources that using an epoxy as a sealer is not a good idea and causes problems( source was a PPG tech) .   I am still researching out this topic for the Kids Camaro. 

Here's what I am using on the kids Camaro(a sneek peek outside of his thread) and cost is a factor as well as what I have left over in stock to help him out with.  Right or wrong depends on who you are, how much money you have, etc, etc.

On the bare metal- Nason  epoxy sold by the quart, mixes one to one so half gallon with activator works out to around $90.00 plus tax approx

On top of the epoxy- feather fill, sprayable filler by evercoat cost is about $80.00/gallon approx

on top of the feather fill - nason high build urethane primer not sure of price currently but was around $150-175 ready to spray with activator

If I can find a sealer that would be next

then we are torn between a Nason top coat or Matrix ( I want to try Matrix and probably will) not sure of price yet. Both of these products are solvent based.

Then either a Nason clear(which I have in stock and is what I used on my flamed neon...still nice and shiny) or the Matrix clear.

This is just what I am doing...if you ask ten painter/bodyman you will probably get ten different suggestions.  Is it complicated?  That's up to you to decide but I would suggest first coming up with a plan as per colours(interior, exterior) then a  price range you want to be in, then a supplier with the type of paint products you want to use( PPG, Dupont, Sherwin Williams, BASF,Matrix,summit,eastwood, etc) then start figuring out which of their products you want to use to fit your price range.  Or the most expensive way....which shop you would be liking to pay to do the work if your not doing it yourself. 

I believe Sherwin Williams has the tintable primers.  Dupont does not that I am aware of. 

Hopefully this info will be helpful, and maybe some guys that are currently working in the game will chime in and offer some suggestions as well.

 

The other product that Hemi likes is called slicksand by evercoat as well. I will be purchasing it by the quart this time around because of how fast it dries and because it is activated by a liquid hardener tube that does one quart. Easier to mix and also easier to handle. It's thick before you start but as it started to harden it gets really hard to spray. One quart at a time for me.