I have a TCI custom IFS, and don't like it. Also was not happy with customer support when I had issues.
The main problem with these aftermarket front ends is that they are based on Pinto geometry. Works great with 13" skinny rims, but as soon as wider taller tires are used, the geometry goes out the window. In the future, I'll make my own. Live and learn I guess !!

Their standard IFS (front steer) as far as I know is based on the Pinto. I have the custom IFS which is rear steer and also though was loosely based on the Pinto. My main issue with it is the high scrub radius, which gives too much feedback when using wider wheels. Unfortunately this is something I can't modify unless I used a high offset rim.

BTW, the front end I used was designed for the 1935 Ford because it was the widest one that TCI made.

Here's what the front end looks like before and after installation; 

 

-- Edited by hemi43 on Tuesday 20th of May 2014 02:47:02 PM

Here are the pics

Fishhooks wrote:

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It is definitely set up for rear steer.

Was told by TCI, that they use "custom spindles, control arms and a remanufactured Dodge Neon rack, 14" long coilovers with 1/2" bearing mount on top & bottom and Grendad hubs, bearings & seals"

Pictures to come soon, waiting on them to load into computer.

Thank you so far.

---

 What they told you is correct. You would think for the price they charge they  could at least supply a new Flaming River rack. The racks they supply are not very good quality IMO. One of the complaints I had when I first put it in was how poorly the rack fit their crossmember. I had to move the floating mount so far over that there was no room left to clamp the boot. I had to machine a collar just get it to fit. Another issue was the boots themselves. I'm on my second set, and they are again full of cracks. Mind you, this front end was installed over 7 years ago, so they may have improved since then. I'm not complaining about TCI, just giving you a real world opinion from someone that has actually used their product.

Here's the picture I had originally sent them explaining the poor rack fitment;

The first picture shows where the floating mount needed to go. The second shows where I had to bolt it, leaving no room for the boot to clamp on.

 

 

It's very frustrating knowing that I am almost "mandated" to purchase suspension components from them and that there are "very few, if any" aftermarket components that would fit my frame and still not rub the fenders of my car.

Especially for those of us starting out, I wouldn't have the slightest clue how to "machine a collar just to get it to fit!"


Thanks to everyone for their opinions and especially to Hemi for your 1st hand experience and photos. Very helpful.



Brian

the tubular mustang arms also help , but it is not the spring that causes interference

it the adjustment rod for the upper control arm that sits over the frame.

If I had to do it all over again I would just use a straight axle and be done with it

Also if at some point you wish to run fenderless the straight axle aready there waiting to look cool

I am not to concerned about handling /ride as I am lucky to put 1000 miles on my car a year!!!

hemi43 wrote:

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Pictures would really help us understand what you're working on.

-- Edited by hemi43 on Tuesday 20th of May 2014 06:20:29 PM

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 See above, pics are uploaded.

If I had to really guess at a cost to complete this set up you would be looking at

lower control arms   500.00 pr

spindles                  200.00 pr

upper control arms  350.00 pr

coil overs                450.00 pr

rack                        275.00

plus Kathleen and daltons share and shipping

rotors and calipers but you need those no matter which route you go

 

Glens complete front axle . axle ,spindles , spring, rotors, calipers, and hairpins was 1100.00 

-- Edited by 34guy on Tuesday 20th of May 2014 07:11:40 PM

I was quoted $2500.00 with a credit of $350 since I already have the crossmember. This is the "non-show" quality version.

Your 2cents is greatly appreciated.

My dillema for sure.

I want to go IFS, but was hoping to stay inside a budget as well, but also my budget was based on the "shopping" of M2 IFS, which obviously is like comparing apples to coffee mugs in this instance.

I will need to obviously need to make some more queries and think alot more moving forward.



On a different note....What would this frame be worth if I were to put it up for sale? (need to have all my bases covered so that I can make the proper judgement)


Thank you again for all of your help

Brian

Brian

          There are lots of guy's here to give you a day of their help to change the front cross member to what you want!!!

I have a friend who had a complete must 2 oe front end and crossmember  400.00  remove yours put this on and upgrade

as cash allows.

buy a front crossmember from hortons  std or 2 inch drop  175.00 and an 1100.00 straight axle from speed way

or run the markets, lots of aftermarket straight axle stuff out there.

I am building 2 cars at this time and both will be straight axle , Properly done they handle and steer just fine.

 

Fishhooks
Joe was right when he said about a straight axle if you decide to take the fenders off.
Other than real high tech/expensive independent,, straight axle look better on a fenderless car.
If it was my car the first thing I would do is mock it up with the fenders in the proper spot and the body if possible and the frame set at ride height and angle.
I would check the location of the crossmember. The wheels should be in the middle of the opening looking from the side.
I would check where the center of the hub will be,as far as ride height goes. You don't want the opening on the fender 2" above the top of the tire.
If you set everything up at ride height you can also check the angle that the crossmember was mounted in the frame. If you can not get enough adjustment to set the caster then now is then time to address that.
To check everything I have brought up would cost you nothing just some time.
It might save you before you buy parts for that crossmember.
Measure twice,,spend once
If one of those are off you might as well start over again.
Great if the cross member is in properly if it isn't and has to come out you can then decide on a more reasonably priced unit and be glad you checked it before you laid down $2500 more for it.
The golden rule I've always gone by ---HAVE YOUR WHEELS AND TIRES FIRST ---then you can look at it all mocked up and say yes that's the look I want.
You can run MII front on a "A" but the fenders hit the upper control arm mount. You can modify the fenders for this.
Some hate it,, it wouldn't bother me to do it. You can only see it from the front. Some have shorter uppers to fix this problem.
I'm sure everyone has their own opinion on this and I'm sure some know much more about this but this is what I would do.
Good luck
TMJ


Heidts use to have a good section in the front of their paper catalogue. Don't know if they still have it or not.

Brian

Its funny to see the comments are almost exactly what

I told you on the phone

IFS on a 30s car is not right. But thats just me

hemi43 wrote:

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I think his crossmember was welded in at TCI on their frame jig. If that's the case, it should be dead on. I actually welded my crossmember in a little too straight up. I was able to get my required caster, but barely. Lesson learned.

---

          Dead on to what though dan ?  a dead flat frame or  

            was the frame raked 8 degrees from the rear

           when tci installed the crossmember 

   

  

Shhhhhh joe

He lives east of toronto. You know there not right in the head out that way

hemi43 wrote:

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34guy wrote:

---

hemi43 wrote:

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Cat in the Hat wrote:

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IFS on a 30s car is not right. But thats just me

---

 That all depends on the type of build. IFS on an "old school" type of car needs a straight axle. A street rod with a straight axle would look odd. 

---

         ????????????????  Thousands of street rod out there with straight axles and don't look odd to me!!!!

     

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 I guess that all depends on your definition of street rod. To me, a street rod is what Coddington would have built. Not too many straight axles on his cars.

---

        I probably wouldn't use a straight axle either if I had all these manufacturers begging me to use their stuff for free on my next car build!!!

         Dan I'm just an old school guy!!! I love the smell of gasoline and rubber and the sound and feel of a six pack sucking air hard, and the whine of

         a four gear rowing thru the gears,I love slamming my door closed and walking away with no worries someone may lean on it, I love leaving it and driving

          it the rain. Dan I am a hot rodder !!!!            

Glenn....you are exactly correct. The responses are identical

I think the term for buying parts off the shelf and bolting them on is SOFT ROD..er

Myself I'm just cheap and Lazy  . These to factor normally dictate the direction I follow.

So I guess a Coddington built rod and those

Resembling them should be known as 

glamour rods LOL

fatstax wrote:

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i see why the TCI guy would tell you that mustang 2 stuff wouldnt fit, theres nothing about these kits that is actually mustang 2 anymore, when these kits came out they did use mostley pinto or mustang 2 parts, i see these kits dont use anything from a pinto, they are only based on the design. 

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 I think the only Ford based part on the TCI custom front end is the rotors. They use Grenada like someone mentioned already. I forgot which ball-joints they use, but I know the rack is based on a Dodge Omni (rear steer).

Pretty sure they use Dodge spindles , but some china-ford metal ...

 thanks for all the good information shared..good post

FarmerSid wrote:

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What about Corvette parts?

---

 Interesting comparison between the 2 they do look a hell of a lot alike . I see TCI is now offering a M2 kit but nothing for an A.. better pricing but still not comparable to a straight axle . Maybe when I get old and feeble Ill look at them fancy Ifs setups .

Feeling old?  not happening any time soon  

If your on a budget and have limited skills(like me) ,I would go for the straight axle. Ive used them for years -once they are set up right they work just fine. Theres probably a million of them on the road as we speak. They seem to do 75 or 80 mph with no problem. They always pass me-I must be getting old!