is there any special rules for an open drag car , other then face mask jacket gloves etc etc might be considering an open roof style body for my gasser project
and again no I,m not gonna google it . I know there is a few guys on here with open cars , any tips would be appreciated ..77.
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I,m as cool as Milner , but axeually a bit more like Beckwith
If I remember correctly if your running faster than 13.99 with an open you must have a roll bar/cage of some sort. Enclosed cars can run 11.99 before needing one.
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If I remember correctly if your running faster than 13.99 with an open you must have a roll bar/cage of some sort. Enclosed cars can run 11.99 before needing one.
11.99 open, 6 pt and arm restraints.
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don't walk in like you own the place..........walk in like you hold the mortgage.
Re our PM deal here is the last one open car I built with the Beez posing for a pic. The car had already been sold by this time .
I build with the rule book right in my mig welder. In the dragster I run arm restaints as well as the NO1 injury in open car accidents is arm injury or loss. If you have seen video of rollovers in open cars of any description you will notice immediately them as soon as the driver is out cold his hands are straight over his head as the car rolls over, usually on them . I wear a series 5 drivers suit because once you are over about 50 you don't recover you just endure and I don't like pain. What are you specifically concerned about? I assume your car already has a cage /roll bar.
don
-- Edited by Don on Saturday 31st of May 2014 07:35:18 PM
-- Edited by Don on Saturday 31st of May 2014 07:36:30 PM
My chassis is an old drag show car chassis , I don't plan on running competitions other then maybe some vintage events . It has no bars or body . I want to see how the bars are set in place , for the **** pit area ..77.
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I,m as cool as Milner , but axeually a bit more like Beckwith
Just get or borrow a rule book. Look under general regulations Roll bar Roll cage. The diagrams are there for each style of car. Follow them. You will meet a bunch of folks who will tell you chrome moly is the only way to go. Some will even pretend it is the only legal material. Don't buy that Elmer cause its poo. Mild steel while slightly heavier is a very durable material not given to fatique cracking like Cm and not requiring exotic welding abilty. Mild steel must be mig or tig welded, I use mig. The weight difference for an entire car is about 40lbs. In a roll bar or cage much less. Probably under 10 lbs. Mild steel can be easily and properly welded with a mig unit which most of us can use. That is why I use it. I would rather have a good weld in mild steel then and iffy weld in CM. I know how to weld steel and have the equipment. I sew my welds making sure there is never a even tiny bit when both sections were not melted to liquid like state. I remember one time I had to brake real hard and the car came up on one wheel when a competitor forgot I was in the other lane and turned right in front of me. I remember thinking , "Well I will be ok because I know what the welds were like when I made them." That settled it for me and I never forgot it. Luckily I didn't roll but the experience was one I wont forget. Don't take chances with your roll bar or cage. It doen'ts cost that much to make a real good one. Most of the expense and pain is getting the bends made. I have no qualms about oversize material either. IE My Rail is all 1 5/8 .120 min DOM mild steel even though 1 1/4 is legal. However if I was to go to Bonneville and I was invited once then the 1 5/8 would have been required. The first time though will be a bit unnerving but after you get through tech with it that will be behind you forever. I also run a steel floor in most of my cars for a bit of added protection. don
-- Edited by Don on Saturday 31st of May 2014 11:24:56 PM
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