Head Gasket Swap

TA462 · PORT HOPE, ONT

Head Gasket Swap

sasquatch · NORTH BAY, ONT

Why are you swapping head gaskets, leaking coolant?

DB Cooper · ONTARIO

That's a hard question to answer.

Let me put it this way, if you have to ask, you should probably have someone very close by that has done this before.

You will also need a torque wrench for when the head gets re-installed.

This may sound like a joke but it wouldn't be impossible for people to walk you through it using this site if you posted pics and asked questions every step of the way.

I have no experience with Pontiacs but it is basically this: Remove intake manifold (and anything bolted to the intake that impedes its removal), remove exhaust manifold, remove rocker cover, unbolt anything that is bolted to the head that impedes its removal (like A/C or alt, air pump etc), back off the rocker arms and remove the pushrods, unbolt the head itself (it is generally recommended that the head be unbolted in a specific sequence, and in steps, similar to what is down when installing a head).

Clean, Clean and Clean again the head and the block deck surface.

New head gasket goes on (the correct way too, I don't know about Pontiac but some/all small Ford head gaskets must be installed a certain way or a water passage gets plugged and it overheats). Install the head and torque to spec using the specified pattern for tightening. Install the intake (it too has it's own tightening pattern and torque spec). Install the exhaust manifold. Install the pushrods and rockers and adjust accordingly. everything else just goes back on.

Before you get into doing all of this, sasquatch brought up a very good point. Are you positive it needs changing?

Remember, the "how to" I posted above is VERY general. Picking up a "how to built your Pontiac engine" would be a good investment.

Take a boo at Youtube, there could very possibly be a video on Pontiac head removal and re-installation.

-- Edited by DB Cooper on Saturday 31st of May 2014 10:25:52 AM

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

Should Not be a huge deal . Read your manual a couple times it should explain what you need . try to put every thing back ware it came from . I take a 3x3 or 4x4 block of wood and drill holes to hold the pushrods easy to mark with a sharpie and keep them in order.

always a good Idea to retoque the heads after a couple heat cycles.

-- Edited by slim on Saturday 31st of May 2014 10:40:45 AM

studeshaker · BUCKHORN, ONT

number one on my list would be drain the coolant. the distributor doesn't have to come out on a pontiac motor.

fatchuk · ST MARYS, ONTARIO

I don't want to sound like a turkey..but I am thinking if you need to ask ..and don't take this as sarcastic or any hidden meaning ..you should probasbly be getting somebody to do it, either helping you that has done it or have it done it.. While it is not a particularly hard job ,if you never done one it is a hard job , if you run into any issues that you can't get the manifold or exhaust bolts off you may need torches, It's messy ,heavy and don't mix any parts up especially the push rods..it's well wurth the time to get a couple pieces of cardboard to mark or poke some holes in to stick your pushrods in.. don't mix your head bolts and make sure they are not torque to yield if they are you will need to replace the head bolts..make sure you replace the thermostat when you replace the coolant and get a picture of the head bolt tightening sequence and the procedure to to follow.. When the heads are off make sure to check the block deck for warpage..Like others have asked..Why are you changing head gaskets..???? what is the problem ???? and make sure you understand how to set the valves ...and remember to make sure you have a table or bench beside you when you pull the head..Theay are heavy and you have to lift them off the block and try to stand and turn to set them down ..I have seen more than one that got dropped on a fender because of not being prepared for what to do when your trying to stand up and turn with the head in your hands....so do it in your head first if you have never done it before..If your not a wrench head ..I might just get a price from somebody and think on it...the things I am not handy at,I get done cheaper and then I can do what I do best...

54vicky · OAKVILLE, ONT

a simple step beforehand is to drain rad first.I pull thermostat out to help with draining you have to remove rad hose anyway.lessen anti freeze draining into pan.as Slim said for pushrods.put a rag or paper towels in lifter valley to keep any old gasket material when you scrape old head gasket if any.Do make sure surface is clean before installing new gasket do not over look this step.once you have it running and warm if no leaks change oil and filter.if you think anti freeze may have gotten in to valley when lifting intake then drain oil before firing it up.then once warmed up change oil again then filter should have said that first.also dont forget to mark distributor and rotor location on distributor housing.it will help when you start up if timing is real close.I also suggest if you have not done it before that you find number 1 on distributor cap and put a piece of masking tape and mark #1 then mark the wires #2 #3 etc. if you mark them in a clockwise fashion starting at #1 then you wont need to worry if it runs clockwise or counterclockwise as they will be in order you removed also if you mark #1 on distributor with a piece of tape then you will have removed a time consuming step.you will need a manual to show proper torque sequence dont just torque in a half hazard manner.I usaully torque in 2 steps.if intake not marked for #1 what I suggest is choose a plug wire that is closest to rad on head that is left or right.this will be for reference only it may not be #1 in reality but for your reference.hope this helps and makes sense.I would when you have number #1 chosen then stick tape on plug noting it as #1 pictures before starting will help later as to what went where good luck.

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

To be honest I never had anyone show me how to do this but I have always owned a factory manual for anything I was going to work on. Not sure about anything newer but the old ones went into great detail on what to look for and how to do it. If you have any mechanical aptitude it should be enough to get you through. As I said before read it and then read it again till you have no doubts of what you're doing.

DB Cooper · ONTARIO

Interesting.

I have never heard of anyone marking push rods so they go back to the same lifter/rocker position. I have never ever done this and have never had a problem either. Lifter back in same spot, for sure but push rod?

My thought regarding the head gasket change is "just do it". WITH HELP though. You'll never learn if you just take the car somewhere to have it done.

Keeper · OSHAWA, ONT

And remember, 455 heads are HEAVY.

Grab a Hyanes manual, and follow along. Nothing difficult, just a lot of little steps.

Cleanliness is your friend. You do not want any crap in the cylinders or oil valley to make its way around your engine.

hemi43 · ONTARIO

If it was me, I wouldn't swap them, I would replace them !

jarvis1 · COBBLE HILL, BC

^^^^^Maybe he's swapping an old one for a new one?

studeshaker · BUCKHORN, ONT

when going to swap meets etc., start collecting manuals. when i was a kid i collected chilton's books, i have a bunch that cover most cars from the mid 60's to mid 70's. i still use them. with some basic mechanical ability,decent tools and good info, you can teach yourself to do damn near anything. another good reference to have are the hollander interchange manuals.

doug.

TA462 · PORT HOPE, ONT

Thanks for the replies. I have coolant in the oil, that is why I want to replace the gaskets. At least I'm hoping that is what is causing it. I have all the repair manuals, a shop manual and a few other books on Pontiacs for reference but I've just never done it before. I've watched lots of videos etc too. I have the basic understanding on how to do it but I've never done it. Everything I've read suggests using new Head bolts so I've ordered a set of ARP bolts, that's what is in it now. It also has Harland Sharp roller rocker arms so I'll have to find out how much torque they need compared to factory ones. I have all the tools just not the experience. I thought about getting someone to just do it but whats the fun in that? You got to learn sometime right. If it takes me a few days or a few weeks it doesn't matter because the car is not my everyday transportation. I think next weekend I'm going to start ripping it apart and take pictures and label everything as I go. If I run into a problem I'll post what it is and see if I can get it resolved here. I still need to order gaskets. I'll need intake manifold, head, valve cover and header gaskets, am I missing anything? Worse case scenario is I have to get it towed to a shop.

Don · PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY

Just do it. Head bolts were not needed but since you have them ???????? although factory bolts are ALWAYS better quality in my experience and in that generation of engines were intended for reuse unlike some new stuff. You will be fine. You have now spent more time thinking about it then the job would take.
don

Lightspeed Mike · BELLEVILLE, ONT

After you get the heads off, send them to a machine shop to check checked for straightness and cracks. Head gaskets don't just leak normally, usually a reason.
I wouldn't be surprised if they are cracked, if so time for an upgrade.

fleet 51 · PORTLAND, ONT

HI TA : If you are changing the head gaskets due the coolant in the oil -- That's absolutely necessary , but if you suspect any other issues , you may consider doing a " leak-down test " prior to pulling the heads . It's a Labour only process and will tell you exactly where the leaks are originating. It will also show ( by listening for the air coming out ) where any other leakage may be ( always a little ) . IE : Intake / Exhaust / Rings / Head gasket . REMOVE THE RAD CAP FIRST !!! Hope this helps -- LATER --- DON / fleet 51