Yes you can run a cross steering with a vega box. It's generally suggested that you don't run hair pins with a tube axle though. The axle will have to twist with suspension movement and tube axles don't twist. 4 bar would be a better choice. IMO
__________________
Custom CNC plasma cutting. PM me for your custom parts.
You guys can believe anything you want but the fact is that, if you are serious about proper handling, "tubes and bones" don't mix. As long as you are going in a straight line and bobbing straight up and down you are probably alright but, when you enter a corner, the tube becomes an unyielding anti roll bar and one of two things is gonna happen. Either fasteners, rod ends, mounts and brackets start bending and breaking, or, if the size and strength of your fasteners, rod ends, mounts and brackets exceed the amount of applied stress, the front end will go, instantly, into infinite roll stiffness and apply maximum lateral load to the front tires. The parallel, equal length four link setup is far superior and allows the chassis to roll properly, applying vertical load on the front tires for maximum tire capability. Tires like to be loaded vertically , not shoved laterally. As for the observation about how great Kurtis midgets were with "tubes and bones", I can assure the Kurtis midgets would have been a whole lot better with a proper four link suspension. As far as the wishbones on the live rear axle of an Indy car, it is irrelevant because each wishbone is attached to an independently rotating "birdcage" bearing mount. Some Indy cars with front wishbones had one of the wishbone mounts attached in such a way that it could rotate freely around the axle, eliminating torsion bind. Others had a wishbone on the right side only with a single link on the left. The best current suspension linkage setup is parallel, equal length four link with lateral panhard links front and rear.
You guys can believe anything you want but the fact is that, if you are serious about proper handling, "tubes and bones" don't mix. As long as you are going in a straight line and bobbing straight up and down you are probably alright but, when you enter a corner, the tube becomes an unyielding anti roll bar and one of two things is gonna happen. Either fasteners, rod ends, mounts and brackets start bending and breaking, or, if the size and strength of your fasteners, rod ends, mounts and brackets exceed the amount of applied stress, the front end will go, instantly, into infinite roll stiffness and apply maximum lateral load to the front tires. The parallel, equal length four link setup is far superior and allows the chassis to roll properly, applying vertical load on the front tires for maximum tire capability. Tires like to be loaded vertically , not shoved laterally. As for the observation about how great Kurtis midgets were with "tubes and bones", I can assure the Kurtis midgets would have been a whole lot better with a proper four link suspension. As far as the wishbones on the live rear axle of an Indy car, it is irrelevant because each wishbone is attached to an independently rotating "birdcage" bearing mount. Some Indy cars with front wishbones had one of the wishbone mounts attached in such a way that it could rotate freely around the axle, eliminating torsion bind. Others had a wishbone on the right side only with a single link on the left. The best current suspension linkage setup is parallel, equal length four link with lateral panhard links front and rear.
That article is describing tubes and bones not hairpins isn't it? I thought hairpins were the recommendation with a tube axle as the hairpins will flex when under load vs the stiffness of a wishbone. Quite a few companies have been selling a tube/hairpin as a cheap package forever. Spirit industries, speedway to name a few.....plus four bars a stinking ugly up front.
Just my opinion but either split bones on a dropped axle or hair pins with a tube when fenderless and if its a mustang II put some fenders on it so I can't see it. ;0)
Batwing/ 4 bar is what they call for with a tube axle. Any way you look at it you are going to get suspension bind once you split the bones with a traverse spring . It's no longer triangulated its square . Henry had it right with his original setup.
if you make the hairpins as long as possible it will limit the twisting, as well you should limit axle travel as well, I think the axle in my rat moves maybe 2 inches at the most
A pair of 1/4 eliphtics does it all in a heartbeat. Locates the axle better. Upper link allows caster adjustment with ease if so desired. Everything built here now gets that. of course perhaps it is the look you are after. If so so be it. don
