won't start

GP CUTLASS · MARKHAM, ONT

won't start

BunkerT · ONTARIO

So it turns over OK?

GhostPost · ONTARIO

HEI? Sounds like typical GM module in distributor.
I had same issue once.

BARRIE, ONTARIO

70 is too old for hei , isn,t it . Need better description of symptoms ..77.

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

I would check if you got power to the coil. ..... if you got power to the coil , do you have spark, if you have spark is it getting gas. if its getting gas and spark

it should fire , burp , backfire.

jarvis1 · COBBLE HILL, BC

Over heated starter?

Playin Hookie · HUNTSVILLE, ONT

Need much more info to help. Is it turning over but not starting or not turning over?

Keeper · OSHAWA, ONT

Playin Hookie wrote:
Need much more info to help. Is it turning over but not starting or not turning over?

Yup more info needed.

Could be anything, from the coil, to the neutral safety switch.

Don · PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY

Most likely cause of intermittent spark is a bad condenser. Some GM used a unipoint set where point and condenser were one unit. I don't know if you can still get them but they were slick.
So get your test light.
Disconnect the wire going to the distributor from the coil.
Turn ign to the ON position
Clip test light clip to ground
Test for power (light) at the dist connection on the coil.
IF there is power there THEN wiring to that point (and coil primary) is good.
Unclip the test light from ground and clip the clip to the wire coming from the distributor that you disconnected
With the pointy end held on the dist coil connection and the clip end on the distributor wire have some one crank it over.
The test light should flash.
IF it doesn't flash THEN suspect condenser (most likely) or Points. Also be sure Dist wire isn't worn through and shorting.
IF it does THEN suspect coil secondary (highly unlikely but not impossible) or Rotor shorted to ground.
Don't throw parts at a problem, especially coils. They are too expensive.
Phantom no starts are often caused by faulty condensors. And sometimes they can be brand new.
don

-- Edited by Don on Thursday 14th of August 2014 07:29:27 AM

-- Edited by Don on Thursday 14th of August 2014 10:43:52 AM

-- Edited by Don on Thursday 14th of August 2014 10:44:54 AM

GP CUTLASS · MARKHAM, ONT

Hi guys. When I said I went to go for a drive and nothing. I mean nothing. No turn-over, no clicking, no sound. Nothing but silence. Sorry the radio worked and the lights were on.

jarvis1 · COBBLE HILL, BC

^^^^^^^I had the same problem with my '94 Caprice.
Turned out to be the neutral switch.

BunkerT · ONTARIO

GP CUTLASS wrote:
Hi guys. When I said I went to go for a drive and nothing. I mean nothing. No turn-over, no clicking, no sound. Nothing but silence. Sorry the radio worked and the lights were on.

You said the starter seems strong so that was throwing some of us off. If there was no sound, it could well be a starter issue or no power to it.

fatchuk · ST MARYS, ONTARIO

George..You will need to do a couple tests..Are you familiar with your own car and have you done any electrical work to the car? ..First check your battery... Is the battery fully charged? then you need to do the basic stuff..Check all the cable terminations from the positive and negative connections from the battery to ground and to the solenoid at the starter..at the starter or within and inch or two on one of the wires there will be a fuseable link in the either the purple or red wire from the solenoid..check for battery voltage on both sides of the fuseable link ..It is common for that fuseable link on GM to melt.. ..if every thing is good to battery voltage on both sides of the fuseable link you will need to go from there to the neutral start switch which is mounted on the bottom of the steering column on that car..have you tried to crank it in both park and neutral...try to wiggle it bit in neutral to see if cranks if you have battery voltage at all the places I mentioned..for safety sake..do not do this unless you have your foot on the brake and no body is standing to the front or reat of the car in case it does start and lurch into gear..Saftey..safety.. I can't stress safety enough when working on an electrical system..make a little sketch of what you are going to check and write the results down ..I have found a variety of little problems that can and will cause this ..from an under charged battery, burn't fusable link, bad or corroded cable terminations . neutral start switch defective or out of adjustment, and or a bad ignition switch .. surprising how many times it turns out to be a simple bad battery or loose connection, or even a cracked broken terminal on the starter mounted solenoid..

-- Edited by fatchuk on Friday 15th of August 2014 09:35:01 AM

GP CUTLASS · MARKHAM, ONT

fatchuk wrote:
George..You will need to do a couple tests..Are you familiar with your own car and have you done any electrical work to the car? ..First check your battery... Is the battery fully charged? then you need to do the basic stuff..Check all the cable terminations from the positive and negative connections from the battery to ground and to the solenoid at the starter..at the starter or within and inch or two on one of the wires there will be a fuseable link in the either the purple or red wire from the solenoid..check for battery voltage on both sides of the fuseable link ..It is common for that fuseable link on GM to melt.. ..if every thing is good to battery voltage on both sides of the fuseable link you will need to go from there to the neutral start switch which is mounted on the bottom of the steering column on that car..have you tried to crank it in both park and neutral...try to wiggle it bit in neutral to see if cranks if you have battery voltage at all the places I mentioned..for safety sake..do not do this unless you have your foot on the brake and no body is standing to the front or reat of the car in case it does start and lurch into gear..Saftey..safety.. I can't stress safety enough when working on an electrical system..make a little sketch of what you are going to check and write the results down ..I have found a variety of little problems that can and will cause this ..from an under charged battery, burn't fusable link, bad or corroded cable terminations . neutral start switch defective or out of adjustment, and or a bad ignition switch .. surprising how many times it turns out to be a simple bad battery or loose connection, or even a cracked broken terminal on the starter mounted solenoid..

Thanks for the list. I tried something quick. Charged the battery fully and it started. Now to check the alternator and wires.

jarvis1 · COBBLE HILL, BC

OMG

fatchuk · ST MARYS, ONTARIO

Good ..you are making progress.. Now you need to detremine if the battery is bad? is the system charging ?? or do you have a draw that is draining the battery ?? if you have and can use a volt meter..

check battery voltage with key off.should be about 12.5 voltage

have somebody crank the engine while you check that battery does not drop below 10 volts..if it does replace the battery or have it tested with a carbon pile or somebody who can determine if the battery has sulphated..

key on engine running, battery voltage should be apprx 14.2 volts..less than 13 volts you have a problem with either connections or Alternator or again a bad battery..

to check for a draw..diconnect the negative battery terminal..take a test light or a volt meter and install it between the negative cable and the battery...key off...there should be no light if using a test light ,or no voltage on volt meter..if the light lights..start checking things such as the glove box light not going out ,trunk light, you cna do this also by removing fuses to till the light goes out that will determine which circuit the draw is on to isolate what is draining the battery..

54vicky · OAKVILLE, ONT

I will add to what chuk said make sure battery post are clean,also the engine ground is good unbolt and clean.if not bad battery I have over the years seen both of these crop up with the rain we have had lately.the moisture will cause the connections to oxidize and rust at ground.when checking voltage check with probes on battery posts then check on cables on battery.I also put probe on positive post then place negative probe on a clean spot on engine to eliminate bad cable or connection.on the older GMs there is usually a 10 gauge wire on the negative clamp that is attached on the inner fender or rad cradle that will if bad engine ground burn up as it is trying to ground through chassis and is to light to carry amperes.while you are at it clean that 10 gauge where it mounts usually has a star washer to bite for good connection.as chuk said have someone crank engine while you hold probes if you dont have a carbon pile.as battery may show 12.5 or there abouts but will drop rapidly when cranking I call it surface charge when it shows 12 volts or so with no load.it may also be a bad starter which will also cause voltage to drop on meter.hard to know from a distance to diagnose but you have been getting good advise there is never a simple answer too many things can cause no crank.hope you solve it

wuga · PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY, ONT

George.......9 days ago you changed the battery and were going to check wiring. Did you find the problem? People here tried to help you, you have to take this thread to a conclusion or tell us you just threw your hands up.

Warren

fatchuk · ST MARYS, ONTARIO

When you try to help guys and they can't even take the time to follow up pisses me off..thanks for wasting my time trying to help..next time don't expect me to help if you ask for help the least you can do is finish up the thread..Or please don't waste peoples time..You are the reason I don't waste my time trying to help..unless I know you ..

GP CUTLASS · MARKHAM, ONT

Sorry guys. Didn't mean to be rude. My laptop died and I just picked up a new one yesterday. Windows 8 is a bit quirky for me.

I haven't had the problem since I last posted. Continue to check all wires and connections to make sure everything is good. I took out the neutral safety to check it out. Seems ok.

I guess I just have to wait to see if it happens again.

Dick Kirkpatrick · MILTON, ONTARIO

Windows 8 is nuts. It took me weeks to get used to it and I still have trouble.

dualquadpete · BLACKSTOCK, ONT

Me too [on the windows 8.1] very confusing!!! Glad you 'may" have problem licked.

henry · CORNWALL, ONT

Windblows? go linux

windows is still DOS with a fancy "try and find what we renamed in this version" GUI.

win 8 to 8.1 has hardware requirement changes and has screwed some people.

Look at Linux Mint, DSL (damn small linux), Ubuntu, Xubuntu and more.