I just bought a 1999 classic style chev 1500 extended cab pickup with the 5.7 litre. It came with the towing package and the vortec V8 has a bunch more HP than my 1995 suburban. I bought it to replace the sub and hopefully pull my trailers better.
Anyway...
I am going to do some up grades and thought I would research them out a bit to get the best bang for the buck. So after watching You tube and google searching, I don't know if I am further ahead or just took some steps backwards.
Here's what I was looking into and am open to read other opinions etc...good or bad.
Magnaflow vs flowmaster-what I found surprised me with this one. The last truck I had came with Magnaflow cat back with the duals straight out the back with 3.5 inch polished tips. This truck sounded awesome with the 305 vortex. My wife and I both want the new truck to sound the same thus looking into the kits. My research shows that flowmasters are more about the sound and don't increase performance. They create back pressure. ??? The magnaflow are a straight through muffler and are supposed to be better for performance. ???
Cold air intakes. I was trying to figure out what kind of power increases they give. K&N of course costs the most at around $266 US from Summit and the Spectre cost around the $150 US from Summit. After finding out that they both make around 20-25 more HP, I find a you tube video that busts the myth saying they don't do anything. One of the comments also said that unless you modify the computer (tuner time) they can actually cost you power????
The other thing I was trying to figure out is the Jet performance chip and whether it is worth the $250 plus US funds. Didn't get to far with that one yet other than the plug in scan tool they offer looked pretty cool allowing you to modify the "program" so to speak.
Open for thoughts and opinions.
Rich
-- Edited by slab on Saturday 11th of October 2014 08:36:23 PM
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
I put a K &N cold air kit on my Ford F150 Lightning, I don't think there are any real gains to be made, sounds good though lol, the same with the Magnaflow cat-back I put on,sounds good
I put my truck on Jay Misener's chassis dyno before and after and the difference was minimal
A handheld tuner like an SCT or whatever other brand would probably be your best way to go, you can change the parameters in the trucks computer, they have some "canned" tunes in them , but any real gains wound require some dyno time
towing?....
go for torque... smaller sized exhaust tubing
Mass air or speed density?
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Fords Rule ! If it ain't designed and manufactured in North America it sucks ! I don't do rice, pasta, fish and chips, sauerkraut, Ikea or other third world motor vehicle !
Put the K&N cold air on 010 Burb,[5.3 /3:08 gears] mileage increased about 3 MPG & another 2MPG on "non ethanol" fuel!!!! Can't complain there, tows well & the sound when your foots "in it" same a unrestricted 4bbl, or Dual quads!!!!
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I can only please one person a day, Today is not your day!!Tomorrow doesn't look good either !!!!
I'm leaning toward Magnaflow, spectre cold air intake and the JET performance programmer. The programmer should be able to make the other changes work with the stock computer by changing the program.....or so the ads say????
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
I bought a 97 GMC K1500 last year, so joined a bunch of truck groups....Most seem to think that the cold air intakes do little or nothing. I am at the point in my life it seems that loud exhaust bothers me, so I am leaving my truck pretty much alone..I get 16-17 mpg alone and about 10 mpg towing the 5th wheel (6000 lbs)
I installed a programmer in my 06 Dodge with a Cummins engine. It had 5 settings, and the top one gave it an additional 100hp, and 250ftlb torque It did work amazingly well. Would just lite the tires at will.
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If brains were wire, some couldn't short circuit a firefly.
hot engine compartment air is not a cold air kit despite what the sellers say
I put a volant air cleaner kit in my 01 f150 for that exact reason 300 odd bucks was a little much for 2 mpg but the truck does run a little better without the restrictive stock air cleaner
bought an edge tuner - a little pricey but the high perf tune helps it drive like I'd expect it to and bumped the gas mileage for driveing at 40-55 mph - anything faster than that and I need to switch it back to stock or the gas mileage goes into the dumper
I drove to newcastle from scarborough the night I put the volant air cleaner box in , along highway #2 it showed a 2 mpg increase over the stock one when I checked average mileage on the edge tuner (23 mpg)
with the tuner , set to high perf , the air cleaner kit and flow master muffler with duel outlets + new spark plugs I can get an average of 22-23 driveing steady at 45-50 mph it got 17-18 before I started working on it and that's what it gets at 60-70 mph driveing on the highway without setting it back to the stock tune
what it gets on the stock tune at 60-70 now I have no clue
truck is an 01 f150 super cab with 2 wheel drive 5.7/ automatic
- I also changed the plastic piece below the front bumper for one to fit an 03 harley davidson f150 - THAT seems to be a big improvement to as now the truck "feels" like it's moveing down the road easier
I think because the original plastic piece rolled under the front end whereas this one is flat , less air is going under the truck and less drag is created
-- Edited by DJD on Sunday 12th of October 2014 06:02:58 PM
-- Edited by DJD on Sunday 12th of October 2014 06:07:17 PM
Great info guys. Thanks. I was hoping some had tried some of this stuff in one form or another. Glad to hear the programmers work because they make the most sense. Change the tune to work with the bolt on's . I'll check into some of the products mentioned on the summit site.
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
Most of those mods really aren't going to do a whole lot for you. Still fun to do, but cold air intake, muffler and jet chip will barely be a real noticeable difference.
Biggest bang for buck I ever noticed on my last truck was changing the gears. Maybe not change on the dyno but you really felt a change.
Just for example typical dakota r/t stock would dyno 220 at the wheels. To get my truck to dyno 260 at the wheels I had,
Mopar M1 Intake Manifold, K&N 14x3, MSD 6a, Long tube Headers, custom 2.5" exhaust, magnaflow built in X muffler and high flow magnaflow cats, larger 52mm Billet throttle body, custom tune on the PCM, 4.56 gears. Probably missing something else but you get the picture. (and I was dyno'ing above average compared to the other guys)
You get all the bolt ons together and a tune you will notice something but it's never going to be that much.
A muffler and cold air intake won't get you any noticeable power increase, my suggestion pick the muffler you like the sound of and just enjoy the rumble of your choice.
Thanks everyone again. I am seeing that the stock truck might be the best bet but Like Nickeleye says It would be fun to have that sound out the pipes and the powerful sound of the intake. I have found a couple of Magnaflow systems used that I want to check out and there not far away. The rest I don't think I will be in a hurry for after all the info you guys have verified for me. I think I'll invest more into the hard cover for the bed and the paint touch-ups it needs. It's a very nice clean truck with only 141k on it. The vortec 350 and the 3:42:1 gears should be a very noticeable Improvement towing the house trailer.
-- Edited by slab on Monday 13th of October 2014 01:14:41 PM
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
I think I might have a hard tonneau for you, I'll measure.
Man the steering on that 'Burb looks light! Have you got a load distribution hitch on that puppy?
that would be great if you had a cover. Let me know. No load leveler for the car trailer only for the House trailer. But you are right in your observations, it was a touch light in the front. Although all went good on the way home, I don't think I want to pull another truck on that trailer. We tried to take some of the weight off the tong but then there wasn't a good way to strap the back of the truck it was too long. My trailer needs some work as far as strap hooks and such to make strapping it down easier but I'm always looking for an upgrade(the last trailer that sold on here I was 3rd in line). I was glad the post about the 401 blitz was posted.
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
Do not get a Jet programmer. Ive got one sitting in my drawer upstairs. Its a Jet stage 2 unit. I do my own PCM tuning. The Jet box intercepts stock signals and "buffers" them. A real PCM tune works just like factory. The Jet box does not touch torque management, it onlyleans out teh rich WOT a/f ratio. I burned out a couple cats shortly after I installed the Jet unit. Jet does make a DST unit that allows you to do true PCM tuning for teh 1996+ Vortec 305/350/4.3 and 454 trucks and more. It came from the Tunercats OBD2 tuning software that I use. ACtually designed by John at Tunercat and sold to Jet.
Your truck has the Vortec 305 5.0 liter. It is rated at 230hp@4600rpm and 280 lb/ft torque@2800rpm. The L30 305 uses a TBI style Y pipe and single catalytic converter, with 3 precat O2 sensors and a single aftercat sensors.
The Vortec 350/5.7 rpo L31 is rated at 255 hp@4600rpm/330lb/ft torque@2800rpm The L31 runs dual cats with 2 precat and 2 after cat O2 sensors.
STock Vortec 350 exhaust, 1/2 ton left(dual 1/7/8" thet crimps down to almost 1/2 that in the bends), 3/4 ton right(dual 2-3/4" pipes and larger cats)
Both engines run 60-66 psi of fuel pressure, same poppet injectors 23.1lb/hr@63psi. CSFI(Central Sequential Fuel Injection) MAF 75mm t-body(same size as used on LS1 Camaros) 191º/196º duration at 0.050" lift with 0.412"/0.428" ;ift with 1.5:1 rockers and a 111ºLSA. This is the same hydraulic roller camshaft as used in the 1994-96 iron headed GEN 2 LT1 engines used in the Impalla SS/ Caprice/Roadmaster and CAdillacs. They were rated at 260hp@5000rpm/330lb/ft torque@2400rpm. It was also used in the 94-94 iron headed GEN 2 4.3 liter 265 cid Vee eight, yes 4.3 V8 with was rated at 200hp@5000rpm and 240lb/ft@2400rpm.It was also used in the B bodies. So all these truck and car engines used the same roller cam, the exhausts, intake manifolds and air intakes along with PCM tuning make the differnce in output.
The 1995 TBI 350 rpo L05 was 200hp/300lb/ft torque
Ive owned both the L05 and many L31's. I used to race my 97 reg cab 2wd truck. STock it ran a 15.9@ low 80 mph 2.5-6 60ft. My best was a 14.8@94mph 2.007 60ft.
Here is a marine intake I swapped in:
Stock 305/350 intake next to marine intake(right)
Stock injection "spider" top, MPFI MULTEC 2 GM conversion spider used in GM warranty work for California registered Vortec 305/350's that experienced issues from Cali. fuels.
What we have to deal with insiode the stock intake manifold.
There are a lot of products that will take your money for no gains. I installed a K&N FIPK at the drags 1 day and saw no mph of et gains compared to stock. I did a set of Hooker Comp series 2462-1hkr 1 5/8" x 2 1/2" LT ceramic coated headers. Along with a mild 87 octane PCM tune it felt as though I dropped a 383 under the hood. It literally lept off the start line on slicks. I went from 3.08's to 4.10's as well. Some of the best towing imp[rovements will come from rear gearing and PCM tuning. Feel free to ask questions. Not to blow my own horn, but I am well known in the 96-99 GMT 400 Vortec truck community.
-- Edited by Hog on Saturday 18th of October 2014 10:07:24 PM
Even not for trucks there are a lot of products that give nothing back. Ignition mods are one in particular but folks will fight over it. However having done back to back tests several times over the last 40 years right at the track I know that is so. Hot Rodders are like crows. anything shiny gets their attention. Others just buy the most expensive of everything trusting that will do the job. Being a bit poor can be a real advantage as you learn what works and why because you have no other options if you want to play. My truck ,the very first V10 ram ever sold by Mopar (001) was good enough I never felt any need to modify it in the almost 21 years I owned it. Great mileage (over 20mpg on highway) lots of power (15.86 1/4 mile) and no trouble ever. The new owner says he is going to restore it and that makes me happy. And like the man said big difference for diesel controllers and gas. Diesel will burn at many AFR ratios so more fuel equals more power to a point. Gas has a relatively narrow window of AFR in which it will make decent power and any great variation from the hurts power mileage (and emissions.) Cold air intake will only help on a hot day and will not show on a dyno because a dyno does not duplicate real world conditions. Like for instance air flow over the vehicle wind and even outside free air temperature. Cold air intake doesn't add power persay but would eliminate power losses in very hot conditions and that is a good thing. But they look cool and do change the intake sound. don
-- Edited by Don on Sunday 19th of October 2014 07:00:08 AM
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SR Dragster because old people need to have fun too!
In Port Hope the local Shell premium has a sticker on the pump saying no ethanol. Ed
I was told that only Shell and Esso premium has no ethanol......but who really knows? If they are short of gas at one refinery, they may sub it from another.
Thanks again guys. I've been away most of yesterday and didn't catch this until this morning but what a great pile of info now. Thanks HOG for the pictures and info. At this point we (Ben and I) got the truck in the shop to see what it will need for a safety. The front end was so loose that it will all need to be replaced. The ball joints nipples don't looked like they have been greased in a very very long time and so I am just going to replace them all and the inner and outer tie rods only keeping the center link. I more or less expected this and the offer I put in on the truck included this needing to be done. Luckily we have the ability to do this here and not have to pay to get it done. This will be towing a house trailer and my family so I want it safe.
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
In Port Hope the local Shell premium has a sticker on the pump saying no ethanol. Ed
I was told that only Shell and Esso premium has no ethanol......but who really knows? If they are short of gas at one refinery, they may sub it from another.
If you look at the sticker on the pump the key word is May contain up to a certain percentage . From my understanding they try and keep ethanol out of the premium gas as its shelf life sucks and its not as fast moving as regular. Even the no name brand on the rezz has no ethanol. Ethanol doesn't burn as hot so reduce's octane rating , reduce it or just remove it and octane increases .the term may contain stops people on both sides of the fence from bitching.
Ethanol increases octane rating but reduces temperature (as you said.) Biggest problem is in hot weather as it is prone to vapour lock which means nothing to a EFI vehicle with a pressurized fuel system but is a pain with a conventional engine mounted fuel pump. A lot of nonsense about ethanol. It is essentially poisoned moonshine and is like methanol and nitro methane an oxygen bearing fuel. Gasoline fuels are the opposite of diesels. Cetane rating for diesel goes opposite gasoline. A higher octane rating means the burn is more controlled and that is so it doesn't partially explode or detonate. Regular or low octane burns quicker and easier but in higher compression engines several of the some 23 compounds will go off together rather then burn smoothly. This causes the pressure in the cylinder to rise too quick so that the pressure is excessive before TDC. That is why you hear that tink tink tink sometimes under load with too poor a fuel. Higher octane fuel is more stable and burns at a controlled rate in the same engine. It does not make more power. It allows the engine to run full tilt without detonation or pe-ignition which if it a higher compression engine it would not do on regular or 87 octane. I taught automotive fuels for several years in a college setting. The power gains available with a higher compression are far greater then the power loss of a stabilized fuel (hi octane) so it works for us. We give up a little to gain a lot. Sunoco or Suncor Petro Canada 94 has ethonal and I use it exclusively in my race car. And my Max Wedge as well. I know not what you have been led to believe but it is how it is never the less. don
-- Edited by Don on Monday 20th of October 2014 11:10:55 AM
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SR Dragster because old people need to have fun too!
In the early days of fuel studies the octane rating of ethanol, methanol and nitro methane was unknown or untestable meaning higher then any available equipment in the 60s and 70s could test. Back then if you were racing at sanctioned race event and were caught with ethanol in your fuel you would be disqualified for cheating because you were. If you were to go to the other extreme caught with water in your fuel no one would care. There are companies who make ethanol conversion parts for holley carbs for racing (E85 conversion plates). Some racing bodies run only ethanol. If it was low octane that would be impossible. The talk around the fire is often a lot different from the facts. Gasoline is at the bottom ethanol next then methanol then nitro methane. And you are right Shell premium has no ethanol and is made in a completely different way then conventional gasolines. But that doesn't make ethanol bad. It is not corrosive like methanol (aka wood alky). I am going to leave it here. You can search to find out the facts or believe the myths. Tis a free country. don
-- Edited by Don on Monday 20th of October 2014 06:01:27 PM
-- Edited by Don on Monday 20th of October 2014 06:02:55 PM
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SR Dragster because old people need to have fun too!
ethanol is nasty stuff in small carbureted engines. we see it every day in my buddy's shop and manufacturers are constantly issuing service bulletins with cautionary info. don't use it at all in 2 strokes, it shortens their life expectancy dramatically.
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don't walk in like you own the place..........walk in like you hold the mortgage.
Thats why I had been running the 94, it was supposed to be ethanol free.
I see that my local old canadian tire station is supposed to have 89 and 91 that are ethanol free. Guess I will start running that gas instead.
From what I can find, the old stations that still have individual pumps for each fuel are most likely to have the ethanol free gas in the mid and premium grades.
All the newer pumps seem to mix it right at the pump.
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Tbucket build pics:Build Tbucket build pics continued: Build And even more: Build
WTF? Ethanol in 94 octane? Doh. I run that stuff in one car but it's EFI..
Can you enlighten me as to what's up with metanol being bad on an old carbed car?
Father in law said Don't run ethanol in the 49 dodge, bad for the fuel pump diaphragm etc. I don't but I didn't ask why.
So, is it a matter of being incompatible with old hoses/seals/diaphragms/gaskets etc?
yes , it degrades fuel lines, seals etc. it is corrosive, we have seen aluminum carburetors so badly pitted they have to be discarded. also ethanol by it's very nature attracts water - it draws it out of the air.
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don't walk in like you own the place..........walk in like you hold the mortgage.
WTF? Ethanol in 94 octane? Doh. I run that stuff in one car but it's EFI..
Can you enlighten me as to what's up with metanol being bad on an old carbed car?
Father in law said Don't run ethanol in the 49 dodge, bad for the fuel pump diaphragm etc. I don't but I didn't ask why.
So, is it a matter of being incompatible with old hoses/seals/diaphragms/gaskets etc?
yes , it degrades fuel lines, seals etc. it is corrosive, we have seen aluminum carburetors so badly pitted they have to be discarded. also ethanol by it's very nature attracts water - it draws it out of the air.
Yeah, it's hydroscopic as anything. Didn't realise that about fuel lines etc. SO E85 vehicles are more than just an E85 sensor and fuel mappings.. Interesting. :) This is good to know. thank you.