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Post Info TOPIC: Enging Heat in 1948 Chrysler WIndsor


AJAX, ONT

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Enging Heat in 1948 Chrysler WIndsor
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Hi guys,

 

I need help/advice on this matter.

I owned a 1948 Chrysler Windsor (Windsor 6: C38W), it is a 6v Flat engine with Fluid Drive transmission.

I notice that the temperature gage goes all the way up to 190, but no smoke or anything out from engine.

I even took the Thermostat out from the Rad, still the same issue, on free way the temperature drop down to 150 and locally its always up to 190.

 

Any advice?

 

Thank You

Regards

Ram



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Ram G


TORONTO, ONT

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If it runs cool on the highway, but overheats at low speeds then you have enough cooling capacity in your radiator, but not enough airflow across it at lower speeds.

You might need a fan shroud if it does not have one, or a bigger/more aggressive fan. You should always run a thermostat or a restrictor. Coolant needs to stay in the engine a certain amount of time to absorb heat.

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HAMILTON, ONT

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I had the same problem with my stock 216 Chevy 6. I added a 12V pusher fan to the rad And the problem went away.



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ONTARIO

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Look down in the fill neck if possible and see if the tubes are not restricted with rust scale and dirt. What I did was took all the rad hoses off and made up an air line in the lower rad opening. Fill the rad with water make sure you have the rad cap and upper rad hose OFF. I ran 160 psi in the air tank opened the air valve, it went off like old faithful and the water was brown coming out. I did this a couple of times and five years later always around 180. Not for the faint at heart fix.



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AJAX, ONT

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Thank You all, I was thinking about the extra fan solution too. I always want to keep the stock as it is.

So Smokin Joe, 180 is normal? I changed all new rad hoses. Will check it again.

Thanks

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Ram G


St THOMAS, ONT

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Depends on what temp thermostat you're running.

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ST MARYS, ONTARIO

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You need to run with the thermostat for sure or you will overheat..Also I used to use a product called Gillets lye I believe that is what it called and may still available at your local hardware store I used to introduce two to three table spoons of into the cooling system.. take a rip around the block and get her up to operating temp.. then block about a third of the rad with cardboard and get her a bit warmer..and open the drain-**** remove rad cap CAREFULLY   It should not get too hot, take the cold water garden hose and run it in the cooling system, make sure the temp control is on full hot to allow for the coolant to flow through the tompson valve and heater core.. I believe you can still get some heater hose "Ts" that you can install into the heater hose so you introduce the cold water and let it run till the water is clear then fill it let it warm up and look down into the rad neck to watch the circulation if you can see good circulation moving in the rad. I would try a run to see if it has successfully cleaned the rad core and heater core .. This should be done with the thermostat removed  for the cleaning.. I found the lye did a great job of cleaning the rad and heater core ..I would only do this on the older brass rads. I have done it many times in the past with good success some times it took a couple times to get it nice and clean..Other than that you might stop into a rad shop shop and see if there any new chemicals they might suggest to achieve the same end..here is link to another solution..

http://www.howacarworks.com/cooling-systems/how-to-flush-an-engine-radiator



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OAKVILLE, ONT

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Chuk you are showing your age I am also by remembering Gillets lye LOL could not resist.I have also used CLR in them then mixed up some backing soda after draining lye or CLR (2 bottles at least) and running water through as you said then fill the rad leaving room for a cup of water with 5-6 table spoons of baking soda well mixed run for a while think 1/2 hour drive after adding lye or CLR.then after adding baking soda.I screwed up the steps but you get the idea 1/2 drive between steps.one finger typing would take me all night to redue.the baking soda will neutralize any remaining acids

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DUNDAS, ONT

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I would think if it runs out cool on the highway the fan... fan position or outer core ( honey cone's are plugged or built up with crud) for the fan to work without a shroud it should be sitting dead centre and within 1/2 an inch or so to rad face... if you can change the belt without cursing its not close enough. 190 isn't  horrible  but I can understand your concern and the weather isn't stupid hot yet. I have had good luck on mobile equipment spraying a couple cans of degreaser/cleaner trough the fins and the lightly rinsing it out with water. nothing aggressive or you will damage the fins. if all else fails you can add a pusher fan set at 180 on a thermostat..... or turn the heater on full blast makes for an uncomfortable ride but has got-tin me out of a few jams over the years.



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