Ford 9in

hotrod-steve · PORT ROWAN, ONT

Ford 9in

Smokin Joe · ONTARIO

I had a set of 3.60 gears cut in the US to replace the 4.75 I was running last year. I assembled and then gave it to Peter Fawcett in Whitby to set them up. Not very expensive and if you do it yourself for the first time things can get messy or loud if you are a bit off or a do over. I have been through that years ago with a set of Chevy 4.11s that a shop set up for me 2 times ruining one posy unit then finally getting them right with a different shop. You will need a good name brand dial indicator seeing you will be playing with only a range of 3 in my case and white grease works well and easy to get. Here is a video to give you an idea how it is done. www.youtube.com/watch

Are you putting back in the same pinion as the crown and pinion are matched sets?

-- Edited by Smokin Joe on Monday 15th of June 2015 12:50:08 PM

Bruce Rossiter · TORONTO, ONT

hotrod-steve wrote:
I have a 9in center section and the pinion gear has been removed .I want to put it back but want to check the setup. Does anyone know how?

I wish I was closer to you so I could return the favour for the parts I got from you. I would set it up free for you.

hotrod-steve · PORT ROWAN, ONT

Thanks Bruce,I will have to figure it out for myself. I want to learn how to do it anyway.Only the pinion was removed for a new bearing. I think I only need some 5 hole shims to set the pinion position ( I hope?)

hotrod-steve · PORT ROWAN, ONT

Smokin Joe wrote:
I had a set of 3.60 gears cut in the US to replace the 4.75 I was running last year. I assembled and then gave it to Peter Fawcett in Whitby to set them up. Not very expensive and if you do it yourself for the first time things can get messy or loud if you are a bit off or a do over. I have been through that years ago with a set of Chevy 4.11s that a shop set up for me 2 times ruining one posy unit then finally getting them right with a different shop. You will need a good name brand dial indicator seeing you will be playing with only a range of 3 in my case and white grease works well and easy to get. Here is a video to give you an idea how it is done. www.youtube.com/watch
Are you putting back in the same pinion as the crown and pinion are matched sets?

-- Edited by Smokin Joe on Monday 15th of June 2015 12:50:08 PM

Just replacing a pinion bearing,thanks for the info,Im going to try it .

henrys57wagon · WOODLAWN, ONT

If you are only replacing the bearing(s) then you can reassemble the pinion with the shims that came with it and set the rotating torque. You will still have to check pinion depth and backlash but if all were set correctly before then pinion depth should be correct. Haven't done a 9" in a long time but I would think that one or both side bearing adjusters would have been moved.

RacerRick · TORONTO, ONT

What Henrys57wagon said is true. If you are just replacing the bearing, the shim thickness should be the same - you just replace the bearing and reuse the same shim. Don't forget to check the pocket bearing. Your pattern should be identical to before, but check it just in case.

Rotating torque for a 9" should be 10-15 inch-lbs with used bearings, and 20-25 with new bearings.

hotrod-steve · PORT ROWAN, ONT

I got this unit with the pinion out already and did not get any shims,I assume they are lost. I have a new outer bearing on order but cant find shims. Where is a good place to get them?

Bruce Rossiter · TORONTO, ONT

hotrod-steve wrote:
I got this unit with the pinion out already and did not get any shims,I assume they are lost. I have a new outer bearing on order but cant find shims. Where is a good place to get them?

Here's the type of shim kit that will help. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ford-9-Inch-Shim-Kit,631.html
This kit has a shim pack for adjusting pinion bearing preload instead of the crush sleeve that is normally used. If this is a one time install, I would recommend just using a crush sleeve.

Some of the places I would use is Grisdale's in the Hamilton area, MRE in the London area, or Bicknell in the St. Catherine's area. All these places deal with racers who use Ford 9" rear ends and all are knowledgeable about the parts you need. Best of all is they won't ask for a VIN number. If you do go to these places, take the numbers from the pinion bearings and the side bearings with you to help identify exactly what rear end you have.

Bruce Rossiter · TORONTO, ONT

Here's a link to the Allstar kit that has the crush sleeve and all the places I mentioned should stock the kit.

www.amazon.com/dp/B006K8UN4Y/ref=asc_df_B006K8UN4Y3741776

RacerRick · TORONTO, ONT

If you didn't get the shims with it you need to reset the pinion bearing depth, and it was probably setup to use the crush sleeve for pinion preload.

I always use the pinion bearing spacer with shims to set the bearing preload since I have had the crush sleeve collapse under real hard use. I do that on mopar 8.75" rears also that use the crush sleeve.

*edit for clarity

-- Edited by RacerRick on Sunday 21st of June 2015 01:47:14 PM

Moobster · NORFOLK COUNTY, ONT

The crush sleeve on a ford 9" only sets the bearing preload.

You can reuse the collar if you put it over a bar and and hammer the bulge some. You only need it to get longer by about .010" and it will work again.

You will need to get a measurement from the "true" axle centerline to the end of the pinion.

There are dimensions marked on the end of the pinion in a +/- measurement.
Bolt the pinion in and measure the distance from the "true" axle centerline to the end of the pinion stub, this measurement should be 4.375" +/- what the pinion is stamped with.

True centerline??? The bearing cap split line surface, may or may not be exactly in the center of the bearing due to machining processes.
You must check the dimension from the bottom of the bearing saddle to the top of the split line. Compare this measurement to 1/2 of the bearings outer race diameter and adjust the pinion depth dimension according to these results.

You can now measure down from the top of the bearing saddle to the end of the pinion and come up with the value for the correct distance. Shim accordingly.

Setting backlash??? While holding the pinion yoke firmly, rock the ring gear back and forth. The dimension your looking for is between .008" and .012" back lash.
Adjust the carrier side to side with the threaded collars until you get this dimension.

Lastly apply a thin smear of white lithium grease to a couple teeth on the ring gear. While keeping some resistance on the ring gear, rotate the pinion back and forth through the grease smear and then check the contact pattern of the grease. The correct contact patch will cover approx. 80% of the tooth.

Hope this helps. If not message me here and I will come down and help you with it.

-- Edited by Moobster on Thursday 18th of June 2015 11:59:52 AM

hotrod-steve · PORT ROWAN, ONT

Thanks Moobster, I will get the parts together and try it. If I cant do it ,I will let you know.

RacerRick · TORONTO, ONT

A new crush sleeve is under $10....I wouldn't reuse them.

Moobster · NORFOLK COUNTY, ONT

That's cheap enough, where do you get them???

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

Just looked at rock auto 3 bucks Canadian so 10 sounds right for Canada

FORD 1965 F-100 5.8L 352cid V8 Drivetrain Differential Crush Sleeve

Price

USA STANDARD GEAR Part # Crush Sleeve
Rear; 4WD; Ford 9"; 28 Spline
Rear; 4WD; Ford 9"; 31 Spline
Rear; RWD; Ford 9"; 31 Spline
Rear; RWD; Ford 9-3/8"

CAD$2.85

RacerRick · TORONTO, ONT

i replace them with the solid spacer and shims from Speedway. Last I checked it was something like $20.

henry · CORNWALL, ONT

Damn Chevy guys..........AKA Turnips

99% chance it will use an .018" pinion support shim.
Nodular "N" cases usually .021"

Hey Moobster.... Good advice for an new case/aftermarket.

If Factory gears, Ford never marked pinion depth.

Ok here it goes..... roll your eyes.....

Ford's precision machining should not be questioned!

The real question is .......... why did zippy disassemble it?

Also if the gears look worn, check to see the the rear pilot bearing case bore is not cracked (high horse power-high traction problem)

wuga · PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY, ONT

You could try Brad at Bowtie Muscle near Chatham. He did my 9" and was easy to work with. He can supply parts, knowledge or rebuild.

bowtiemuscle1@yahoo.com
519-354-5016

Warren

hotrod-steve · PORT ROWAN, ONT

I decided not to use this unit. The ring gear has some pitting/rust on the face of a coupe of teeth. looking for another 9in in better shape-hopefully all together and ready to go.

hotrod-steve · PORT ROWAN, ONT

I found a good 9in center section ready to install. Do I need a gasket or can I just use a silicone sealer?

dualquadpete · BLACKSTOCK, ONT

if you go with the silicon, let it "tack" for a few min. before joining together!!!!! Find you get a better seal & it doesn't all squeeze out when tightening up the nuts.

henry · CORNWALL, ONT

Silicone is pure evil in the wrong hands.

A paper gasket works well and they are not that expensive.
The the main issue is to stop seepage around the studs.
The factory uses copper washers under the retaining nuts.
Make sure the spot faced seat for the washers are smooth and clean.
They have to be cut off next time you try to remove the center.

I have had success with fat cross section O-rings at the base of the stud with a small spot of silicone to hold the rings to the housing & studs(for cars that see many gear changes)I skip the copper washers. Check the chamfer on the rear of the mounting holes.

If you use a (thick)paper gasket, coat both sides with wheel bearing grease and install as such.
If you want to remove the center later the gasket stays intact and can be reused with a THIN smear of silicone.

henry · CORNWALL, ONT

Silicone is pure evil in the wrong hands.

A paper gasket works well and they are not that expensive.
The the main issue is to stop seepage around the studs.
The factory uses copper washers under the retaining nuts.
Make sure the spot faced seat for the washers are smooth and clean.
They have to be cut off next time you try to remove the center.

I have had success with fat cross section O-rings at the base of the stud with a small spot of silicone to hold the rings to the housing & studs(for cars that see many gear changes)I skip the copper washers. Check the chamfer on the rear of the mounting holes.

If you use a (thick)paper gasket, coat both sides with wheel bearing grease and install as such.
If you want to remove the center later the gasket stays intact and can be reused with a THIN smear of silicone.