Members Login
Post Info TOPIC: bolts


DOURO, ONT

Status: Offline
Posts: 846
Date:
bolts
Permalink  
 


anyone out there know how to take the hardness out of a bolt

I have several control arm bolts seized into the sleeve/bushings and will have to use a sawzall to cut them out - problem is they are Grade 8 hardness and eat sawzall blades like no tomorrow

is there something I can do on the car to remove some or all of the hardness? ie some form of heating and or cooling

in the alternative - does anyone make like a cobalt sawzall blade?


 



__________________

1947 Ford convertible, 67 Beaumont pro touring, 1953 Mercury pickup



Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 320
Date:
Permalink  
 

What about cutting disc on an angle grinder or die grinder? That's what I would use.

__________________


DOURO, ONT

Status: Offline
Posts: 846
Date:
Permalink  
 

not enough room

__________________

1947 Ford convertible, 67 Beaumont pro touring, 1953 Mercury pickup

DJD


SCARBOROUGH, ONT

Status: Offline
Posts: 965
Date:
Permalink  
 

this may seem funny but as an experiment it may or may not have an effect

I've been told not to acid tank hardened parts like spindles as it removes the hardening

I've used liquid drain cleaner to clean rust from parts in the past
one thing I learned doing this to a hood latch is to never put liquid drain cleaner on springs as it makes them brittle as hell , such that they break when you try to use them

so maybe a little liquid drain cleaner in a spritz bottle ??

at least any rust around the bolts will be gone - don't forget to rinse



-- Edited by DJD on Wednesday 16th of December 2015 03:37:08 PM

__________________
XZ


CORNWALL, ONT

Status: Offline
Posts: 340
Date:
Permalink  
 

If you heat as red as you can and let it cool slowly it will remove some temper, (works for females also). Why not torch them off?

If that was a 2015 chevy you would have to replace the whole "chinese" car.


__________________

Fords Rule ! If it ain't designed and manufactured in North America it sucks ! I don't do rice, pasta, fish and chips, sauerkraut, Ikea or other third world motor vehicle !



ONTARIO

Status: Offline
Posts: 413
Date:
Permalink  
 

DJD wrote:


I've used liquid drain cleaner to clean rust from parts in the past
one thing I learned doing this to a hood latch is to never put liquid drain cleaner on springs as it makes them brittle as hell , such that they break when you try to use them

so maybe a little liquid drain cleaner in a spritz bottle ??

at least any rust around the bolts will be gone - don't forget to rinse



-- Edited by DJD on Wednesday 16th of December 2015 03:37:08 PM


 Drain cleaner is caustic (sodium hydroxide) and will not remove rust. Acids could cause hydrogen inclusion which is why you shouldn't chrome springs. Acids do not affect the hardness.



__________________


DOURO, ONT

Status: Offline
Posts: 846
Date:
Permalink  
 

well - $50 worth of blades and two hours and I got one control arm out - only 5 more to go

__________________

1947 Ford convertible, 67 Beaumont pro touring, 1953 Mercury pickup



St THOMAS, ONT

Status: Offline
Posts: 675
Date:
Permalink  
 

Good thing Christmas is coming up real quick Just get a good supply of blades, and you're good to go.

__________________

If brains were wire, some couldn't short circuit a firefly.



RICHMOND, ONT

Status: Offline
Posts: 181
Date:
Permalink  
 

Check the speed of the saw. For metal, cutting slower works better to save blades.

__________________


ST THOMAS, ONT

Status: Offline
Posts: 12
Date:
Permalink  
 

Try heating the area around them  , then use a air chisel with flat end ,



-- Edited by Super Plus on Wednesday 23rd of December 2015 01:19:38 PM

__________________
Smarter than need be


New Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 2
Date:
Permalink  
 

how about cut off wheels for your die grinder,,, if you can't get the straight die grinder in there how about a 90 degree die grinder,,, I think the discs are 2 or 3 inches in diameter 



__________________


DOURO, ONT

Status: Offline
Posts: 846
Date:
Permalink  
 

heating them up worked wonders - only took ten minutes per cut and only burned up 3 blades for four cuts vs 15 blades for the first two bolts that were no heated - cutting really slow speed also helped I think

four more to do and done



-- Edited by Seeker1056 on Monday 28th of December 2015 05:43:11 PM

__________________

1947 Ford convertible, 67 Beaumont pro touring, 1953 Mercury pickup



WEST PERTH, ONT

Status: Offline
Posts: 287
Date:
Permalink  
 

If thems are really nasty, I treat them like a brake bleeder.

Low flame/heat with a bucket of ice water and a rag. Slowly heat, and then quench with ice water. Do that a couple times or more.

Can't heat the snot of of bleeder, so ya gotta be fast.

Jus sayin

__________________


CORNWALL, ONT

Status: Offline
Posts: 340
Date:
Permalink  
 

All that for a chev?

__________________

Fords Rule ! If it ain't designed and manufactured in North America it sucks ! I don't do rice, pasta, fish and chips, sauerkraut, Ikea or other third world motor vehicle !



ONTARIO

Status: Offline
Posts: 625
Date:
Permalink  
 

Also a big difference in what brand of blade you are using. Try Lenox for a very good made in USA blade. A bit more money but worth the extra.

__________________

Yes they are all crazzzy but me and you........... and I am not sure about you!!!!

Page 1 of 1  sorted by
 
Quick Reply

Please log in to post quick replies.



Create your own FREE Forum
Report Abuse
Powered by ActiveBoard