Best practice would be to put epoxy on first. That being said I have several reasons why I didn't. The main reason that will apply to most of the decisions I make on this car is quite simply that it is not a keeper. It is not going to be a show contender and lastly, no one will give me any extra for it when I sell it due to the expensive epoxy being under the filler.
Ben's 87 Camaro has seen every type of weather but snow and it still looks great. No epoxy under filler. I think this is going to be it's 4th summer maybe 5th. That being said, his new project Camaro will be epoxy primer every where.
DO NOT PUT BODY FILLER OVER EPOXY PRIMER You will come to regret such ..
The epoxy will push the filler off in time...have seen such happen many times...DO not do it.
Anything done correctly works.... make sure your epoxy is cured. not just dry to the touch and scuff it before applying any filler onto it.
Remember once you start using the epoxy every time you burn through seal the bare metal with another coat of epoxy if not you should just save your money and use etch primer and a good quality 2k primer.
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The best way to get on your feet is to get off your ass.
Do as you will....I've been in the high end restoration /collision trade for 38 years never had a come back,However have redone many cars done WRONG by other shops/people.
This thread does not come close to the hundreds of cars i,ve done.. http://ontariorodders.activeboard.com/t61920759/years-gone-by/
I'm not about to scan an upload old pic's to prove to know what is known to me as wrong...
Good luck fellas .
Do as you will.
Happy new years.
-- Edited by Ground Pounder on Thursday 28th of December 2017 09:02:35 PM
-- Edited by Ground Pounder on Thursday 28th of December 2017 09:03:58 PM
you guys are gonna laugh when I tell ya what the very best primer ever .. WAS
yep it came in a rattle can
it came from canadian tire
it came from the auto body repair section , not the auto spray paint section
it said rust killer primer on the can and had a picture of a nova with a little spot of primer on the wheel well on the label
it was marketed by turtle wax
it sprayed nice and level or flat as hell
it dried with a nice smooth SEALED surface
it allowed body filler to stick to it - forever
it stopped rust from coming back once ground clean in any pockmarks in the metal
I did the rust blisters on a hood , ground them out till I knew there was no rust left then I primed it I them filled the pockmarks with a little fiberglass filler and body filler , then primed over it again
I let that car sit in the driveway for 4 years without painting over the primer and filler the rust never came back , no new rust started and the only rust that occurred was a single scratch from the sandpaper that had actually cut all the way through to metal
and of course it was discontinued in the early 2000's
I also used it for plastic model paint jobs it would soak or etch the polystyrene plastic enough to become more a new surface than a coating like paint would normally be
I could then paint colour , laquor over it and get coats so thin the swierl marks in the original plastic molding would still show through for the first 4 coats of colour
yeah , I can paint thin with a rattle can lol
in between colour coats I would wet sand the model with 1500 wet/dry paper and some colour back car wax for compound then wash with dishsoap to remove wax and respray , repeat it would usually be about 7 coats to finished + primer + 2-3 coats clear for a final little paint job that looked like the model was originally molded in plastic the colour I'd painted - with no globed up detail from too much paint
it's allways been an ambition to find out who made that paint for turtle wax .. I'd buy it by the barrel
-- Edited by DJD on Friday 29th of December 2017 12:58:46 AM
Well that's interesting stuff right there. That's my post from another forum up at the start of this thread. I have seen filler peel off epoxy before as well. It was PPG DP90. Epoxy had sat in the gun too long or something. Don't know for sure. I can't say I have ever had a car come back because I didn't put epoxy under the filler. It would take a very long time to filler a repair if you had to declare the epoxy after each coat of bondo. I think SPI says 24 hours before putting bondo over epoxy. But, I am not saying it is not ,as I stated, best practice. Lots of high end shops in the US put epoxy under filler. I guess whatever works for you. Do as you will as has been stated. Lol
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
A quick disclaimer....
A piece of my build thread/shop activity photos was cut an pasted in on this forum. While this bothers me a little, it is not really a big deal. Since only a portion of what was said or questioned is stated here, I would like to say that I am not Chip Foose. I am not Charlie Hutton or anyone special. I post for people's entertainment and my own. If someone benefits or gains something out of it, that's a bonus.
Thanks
Rich "slab"
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
Filler over epoxy is now the accepted way of doing bodywork. In fact, it's recommended by German OEM for warranty repairs. Epoxy got a bad rap about 20 years ago because of filler adhesion problems, but today that's different. Most shops still wont use it even though it's better practice because of cost, and the time needed for the epoxy to fully cure before fillers are applied.
The guy that sold me the epoxy primers and filler says to prime first then use the filler. He showed me his "shop" truck. One side he primed then filled, the other filled then primed. The side that was primed first still looks great, the other side, the filler is popping off. I guess different people have different experiences. His "shop" truck was a Ranger that was rolled so both sides were damaged the same.
