My daily driver is a 2008 Honda Ridgeline. I left it with a friend to do the rear brakes for me since I am still learning how. Anyway, when the job was done, I got the truck home and when I went to lock it up, I discovered my security system / key fob no longer functioned. I imagine the timing is just a coincidence. But I need to find out how to fix my door locks and trunk lock. I can't get the trunk open at all but the doors will open with the manual portion of the key. Yes, I checked the key fob battery and it was good but I replaced it anyway and still no luck. I just sunk $600 into a right front wheel bearing and another $600 into the rear break job. I was rather hoping to sink money into my rod, not my daily driver. But I can see how wear and tear is to be expected so I accept that. But I'm not going to put a lot of money into getting the small red led indicator light to come on to remind me that my security system is functioning. Oh and I can't open the trunk with the switch in my glove box either. Unless someone has has a fix, I think I'll just live with this. I have to try and save enough cash to get my burnt valve repaired in the Spring. The good part is that I get to open up the motor again to take off the head. That reminds me, I guess I'll need new intake manifold gaskets.
When he was doing the brakes, did he touch or short out anything else. Have you checked the fuse panel. Maybe the system needs a reboot. Disconnect the battery for a few minutes and see if things return to normal. Sounds like a lot of things failing at once.
power accessories like windows , seats , locks etc don't use a fuse to protect the circuit .. they use a circuit breaker instead
if you used a fuse then the accessory would burn out the fuse EVERY TIME you ran the motor of the accessory to it's end of travel the circuit breaker cuts the power at end of travel as you're still holding the button down..the circuit breaker automatically resets it's self .. that's why locks etc go thump thump thump when you hold the button to long
find the fuse boxes .. find the breaker for the accessories in question .. look to see if there's another similar breaker beside it for something else .. try THAT other breaker in the questionable circuits spot and soon you'll know if / if not you need a new breaker ..
START HERE
-- Edited by DJD on Saturday 21st of November 2020 02:58:14 PM
adding.. if you can try another breaker in the questionable breaker's spot try putting your finger on it to see if you can feel if it's clicking away madly.. that would indicate a short somewhere that wore out the breaker.. then put the good one back in it's proper place before it goes bad too
Wow, this sure is the place for answers ! Thank you everyone. I will print this all out and follow step by step. So positive. Everyone knows their stuff here. I guess I am about to learn about circuit breakers now. But I'll try the battery disconnect first. Sounds like a pc reboot and I'm familiar with that. Thank you again Wuga, 51 Styline and DJD ! I'll let you know how it goes.
Well it wasn't the fuse. I have a box of spares and threw one in even the original looked fine but no luck. Now I'll go on-line to see what a breaker looks like and how to know which one to pull out, assuming it unplugs like a fuse I guess. Hopefully unplugging the battery will be the fix but I should learn about breakers anyway so time for a little research. My fingers are too numb to keep working out there anyway. Snow has begun in Keene.
Well unplugging the battery wasn't a fix either. If the number '8' I see on something above the fuse box indicates the circuit breaker for the door lock fuse (#8) in the fuse panel, then I guess I found the breaker. Maybe it pulls out just like a fuse. I'll try to see if another breaker will fit in there and feel if it clicks a lot. Thank you DJD. If this doesn't work, I might just leave it or take it to a shop in Millbrook in the Spring. I don't really need to get into my trunk yet anyway (unless I get a flat). Hmm ? Maybe I better not wait.
