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Post Info TOPIC: "the next one" - Scratchbuilt Mid-Engine Sports Car


NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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RE: "the next one" - Scratchbuilt Mid-Engine Sports Car
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Here are some more photos of the roof being created ... to catch up this thread.  I'd like to thank everyone again who's following along and sharing their support.


I was getting a bit anxious as the time was approaching to create the roof panel as I've never shaped a panel this large. The shape is simple enough...it's just managing the size. Normally, some would approach fabricating this in 4 pieces - the sides and front curvature pieces, followed by the main area panel...which would be welded to the 3 perimeter pieces. As you guys have seen, I've got a few marble loose up there ... so figured why not try it as one piece. The other thing is that I didn't really want to do all that welding/finishing. There'll be enough of that in the coming weeks.

The same shaping principles used to create smaller pieces also apply large ones...except for handling the size of the sheet. The throat on our wheel is large enough to accommodate over 1/2 the panel so 'washing out'/smoothing the panel wouldn't be an issue...

The roof panel was started by creating a flexible template on a fresh 4'x8' sheet.



The piece was cut out and preliminary wheeling pattern marked out.


After about 1/2 an hour of shaping the roof panel marks the 68th and final major panel being shaped... It's easy to over shoot the shape, therefore I like to take my time and sneak up on the curvature. Overshooting isn't really that much of an issue since you can wheel the perimeter to get the centre back down...but that means more time spent wheeling.


Later, after final shape tweaking, the edges will be trimmed and feature lines will be created.


The panel looks like it fits the wire frame buck fairly well...but it'll need 'a little' more work to fit just right.


So back to the wheel with my dad...pushing the areas over the doors up to attain the prescribed curvature.


Dropped the roof skin on again and marking areas to be adjusted...




A shot from the underside if the roof and the wire frame buck. The skin needs to conform to the this buck precisely. It's close, but has a long way to go yet...


Bringing up the centre section of the roof some more by starting to wheel it again...1/2" at a time.


Rolling on....


... and on...


...and on... It's getting close...and shiny. The upper wheel and lower anvil are transferring their mirror smooth surfaces onto the material being rolled.


Trial fitting the panel...again. A few more adjustments before the features are put in and edges tipped.


Perimeter edges need to have excess material trimmed.


Edges trimmed away and prepped for tipping.


Pheu!

Thanks for looking



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



WASAGA BEACH, ONT

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Awesome stuff!!

 

Do you ever work with aluminum?



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NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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NOVACLONE wrote:

Very nice work Nick, You Got Skills smile  Thanks for showing us!



-- Edited by NOVACLONE on Friday 14th of September 2012 07:40:15 AM


 Thanks Novaclone!  biggrin   Took a serious interest in metal shaping when I was around 19ish...and been playing with it ever since.  Way back when I never had the enhlish wheel ... only a bunch of hammers and dollies...and basically learned how metal reacted as I worked(beat) it.  To this day though it'll occationally throw me a curve ball where I stand back thinking what the heck happened.  disbelief  Soo much still to learn.



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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Beachcat wrote:

Awesome stuff!!

 

Do you ever work with aluminum?


 Much appreciated Beachcat smile

Yes, I do work with aluminum.  From square/rectangular stock for trim... to sheet metal body panels.  I chose to run with steel for R2's body for the simple reason that I enjoy working with steel.  Weight wise, one evening curiosity got the best of me and I weighed each of the exterior body panels(including the door, hood, and rear hatch shell/structures). The resultant weight came in at about 175lbs...approx 90lbs heavier than if I created the pieces from aluminum...a difference that I'm not really going to loose sleep over. Maybe R3 will see an aluminum body...ahh yes there are things with this one that I would like to change already. Call me nuts!   Ohh yea.. I guess most of you guys already do....



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



PICKERING, ONT

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Nick you have come a long way from the Blue tarp days looks great keep up the great work so you can start on my 55 Chevy GASSER.Markbiggrin



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NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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shorts wrote:

Nick you have come a long way from the Blue tarp days looks great keep up the great work so you can start on my 55 Chevy GASSER.Markbiggrin


 Hey Mark!  Great to hear from you smile  Thanks very much for the kind words.



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



ONTARIO

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Man.......I don't know what to say. Your metal work, Pug's frames. Unbelievable.

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LINDSAY, ONT

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Iwannagofast wrote:

Man.......I don't know what to say. Your metal work, Pug's frames. Unbelievable.


 I agree!! Some amazing talent on here! Thanks for sharing guys



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NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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Thanks Guys! smile

Pieces for the rear hatch are laid out and being prepped for assembly.


Fitting the pieces to the buck and scribing the underside of the dovetail panel so that the vent holes can be cut out.


After cutting out the vent holes, the panel was run though the tipping wheel to brake a starting bend. These bends can now be formed over the buck for a true fit.


Used to torch to heat and massage the corners into place.




Brother in law getting a crash course in metal shaping. Nothing better than diving in with both feet.


Always try to squeeze a little extra in at the end of the day...usually with a mockup panel or creating some templates. Here the front compartment got mocked up with some left over scraps of corrugated cardboard...


Transposing the templates onto sheet metal.




Guess it was a few days later when these panels for the front compartment were shaped...didn't have the camera around to get some shots. Now they need to be welded and finished. Next thing to tackle are those big holes in the hood...

With the metal shaping for the front compartment coming to an end and the troughs along the side redone(wasn't happy with the first go of narrow troughs) it was time to start fitting all the body pieces together.

I started by fitting the tops of the rear 1/4's to the buck. A few areas were in need of a massage until it 'felt' relaxed in place.


Our Body Caliper was set up to measure and compare both sides for symmetry.


I was quite pleased to see that the consistency of the panel curvature came out this well. That includes the outer curvature. The curvature was checked in relation to each other on both sides at 5" increments.


Thanks for following along.



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



ONTARIO

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So THAT's what CAD stands for !! Carboard aided design !!

Geez I'd like to come down and see your setup, but I dread that drive across Toronto.

 

 

 



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NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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hemi43 wrote:

So THAT's what CAD stands for !! Carboard aided design !!

Geez I'd like to come down and see your setup, but I dread that drive across Toronto.

 


 Hey Hemi, it's funny that you bring up Cardboard Aided Design.  Here's a little tutorial I did for someone a while ago using a piece of cardboard to model the fabrication of a structural body component.






Second more accurate template created from the first mockup piece.


Flanges marked out and tipped.






After tipping the flanges the panel takes on a totally wrong curvature.


Need to turn to the Shrinker/Stretcher to correct the curves.




Shrinks just like metal...almost. It bounces back a little. Good enough for a template though.


Some more stretching...


Touching up the panel's complex curvature with the wheel and an appropriate lower anvil. The pressed paper does compress enough to mimic sheet metal.


Ready to check the fit.


Doesn't fit too bad...with a few vice grips holding it in place.


Enough craziness for now..



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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A few more photos to catch up this thread...

The rear fascia pieces were already clamped in place and scribed.  With most of the major shaping coming to an end it was time to start trimming and welding things together.






Lower fascia being fitted to the wire frame buck.


Lower and upper pieces are clamped and ready for welding.



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



NORTH BAY, ONT

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Great follow along build, photos and info, impressive workmanship. Thanks for the very interesting postings.

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NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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sasquatch wrote:

Great follow along build, photos and info, impressive workmanship. Thanks for the very interesting postings.


 Thanks Sasquatch!  smile

Here are some pictures of the pieces that make up the front fenders coming together as well as detail work around the headlight areas.

Top section of the driver's side finder 'clipped' into place on the buck in preparation for ...


... the two lower front and rear pieces to be lined up and tacked into place. Final welding will take place off the buck. You may notice that the piece being tacked is on a slight angle at the moment. As you guys know, it's crucial to precisely align the surfaces being welded. Once tacked, I flexed the panel into position and adjusted the joint with a hammer and dollie. I was aware that there would be some springback of the panel when removed from the buck but that would be addressed by relaxing the lower feature.



The main body feature was sharpened up using our tipping wheel after the convex/concave surfaces were created with the english wheel. Getting the initial lines straight was one of the bigger challenges since the guide marks were on the underside of the panel while it was being pushed though the wheel. Aside from working the metal at the seam during tacking/welding and rolling the front lips these pieces weren't touched with a hammer or slapper.

Now onto the other side to hem the lip around the headlight area. After the first pass the feature is still a little bumpy. The trick for a nice result is to take your time during this procedure otherwise it will require a little more finessing to smooth out. At the time I was working on this ... I was in a hurry...




A bit smoother, but not great as there are some flat spots that need to be worked out.




During final welding of the panels I'll go over that touch up the small inconsistencies.

Thanks for looking fellas. 



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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Creating a hammer-form for the gas filler housing. An adjustable compass bracket was fabricated to create various sizes of circles with the router.


Centre area plunged through.


Creating another pieces with a slightly different size and profile.




Starting with flat circular blanks of sheet metal cut from scraps and centred over the form the edges are slowly rolled over the hammer form. The inset was then created later.


Hammer form works great and the top/bottom pieces came out very well.


Next step will be to create a sleeve and join the upper and lower pieces together.

Thanks for following along! 



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



HAMILTON, ONT

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fantastic work i always look forward to your posts


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NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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48poncho wrote:

fantastic work i always look forward to your posts


 Thanks 48poncho!  smile 

This project's style isn't exactly a custom or a hot rod like most of the members have here on the site.  But, the techniques used to build it are transferable as a lot of the guys who stop by with parts to be custom made have seen.  

I appreciate the entusiasm you all are sharing.   



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



NIAGARA REGION, ONT

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Always an educational update, really appreciate the thought and details in your posts............
thanks again

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NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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Thanks DavyJ  smilesmile

 

Here we go with some work on fitting the glass and creating door hinge mounts.

Testing the fit of the new windscreen. With the new windscreen on hand, final sheet metal fitting can be completed. After paint...we're after just under a 3/16" gap between the body and the glass.


Getting started on some more of the inner structural components. Finger brake being used to create one of the seemingly few straight line bends for the door hinge posts.


Comparing the bent door hinge profile to the template created earlier.


After a trial piece is created and tweaked(left) the real components can be fabricated. The posts are mirror opposites...so we needed to ensure the bends were made on the correct sides.


Door hinge post sitting on the A-pillar web


A-pillar webs taking shape.


Thanks for looking.



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.

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AYLMER, ONT

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Wow Nick,thats just friggin' fantastic work! smile LOL I use my Cheerios boxes for gasket material!!!      John



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NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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NOVACLONE wrote:

Wow Nick,thats just friggin' fantastic work! smile LOL I use my Cheerios boxes for gasket material!!!      John


 Thanks very much for the thumbs up John! 

I'm with you with using them for gaskets.  Hammer out required gasket...slap on a little aviation gasket goo..and boom insta-gasket.  Work great on just about anything ...well except exhaust manifolds.. HAH!disbeliefsmilesmile



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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Starting the next stage of this project, joining the panels to create assemblies.

Forgot to take a picture how the butt joint for the rear fascia initially looked ...but here we are after the first set of tacks were planished and actual welding began. The key to minimize distortion during welding process is to skip around the joint controlling the amount of heat generated within the panels. When you can comfortably place your hand on the welded area...you're good to continue on.


Looks pretty rough at this point...but welding is complete. Now time to clean it up.


After grinding the pride(bump) off the weld, the HAZ area needs to be hammered and dollied to stretch the material again and remove any distortion. During the welding process material shrinks distorting the panel to some degree.


We're almost done. It looks smooth, but after the panel is installed a few areas need to be touched up until the welded is completely invisible.


The body's door jam assemblies have also almost been completed and set off to the side.


Thanks for checking out the progress.



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



CLINTON, ONT

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Wow    I've never seen this craftsmanship before...   I didn't see the first car...  

Do you do this for a living ?  or are you a millionaire with nothing to do? wink

 

I have trouble, putting my parts back on my S10 (took apart for paint) 4 months ago    

 

You must be related to the Engergizer Bunny.....................



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NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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427CARL wrote:

Wow    I've never seen this craftsmanship before...   I didn't see the first car...  

Do you do this for a living ?  or are you a millionaire with nothing to do? wink

 

I have trouble, putting my parts back on my S10 (took apart for paint) 4 months ago    

 

You must be related to the Engergizer Bunny.....................


 

Ha!  Best way I've started a morning in a while ...with a laugh!! smilesmile   Yeah, millionaire ...ok!  This metal shapings stuff and the R2 project are a moonlighting(literally) thang.  How does that saying go?.. Work all day, hobby at night...and sleep never!  wink

 

I was the worst at remembering how things go together too... till i started organizing and bagging all the nuts/bolts for anything i took apart and taking photos of things coming apart.  Helped a lot.

 

I've posted build photos of the first car somewhere down the list here in the project sections .. called Rhythm - Scratch Built Late 60's Inspired Sports Car

I invite you to 'Like' and check out some more photos on my facebook site when you have a moment -  http://www.facebook.com/iNVisionPrototypes

 

Thanks for looking.



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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Work on the roof's structure had to be wrapped up before anything could be started within the interior.  And I was really itching to step out of my comfort zone to get into the interior and start carving/shaping the foam panels(the fun part) that would facilitate as plugs for composite panels(not soo fun).  I've never done composite work to this degree before so I wasn't sure if things were going to turn out as I was planning.

So, after tweaking, installing and tweaking the roof's main structural components some more, the corners were trimmed back and finalized with additional pieces.


Vertical corner filler pieces created, clamped, and tacked into place.




This pretty much finished up the body shell ... for now.

Before any interior work could begin, I had to get the doors temporarily mounted to the shell..without hinges... so that interior panel plugs could be accurately created. Fixtures were fabricated attaching the doors to the shell after they were properly spaced.


More to come..



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



MARKHAM, ONT

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Lovin' it Nick.

Keep it coming!

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ONTARIO

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Hey!! let's rent a party bus and all go down to visit Invision's shop !! Now THAT would be a cool garage tour !! Then we could go across the border to Sammy's for beer and wings and get $hitfaced !! LOL

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ONTARIO

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I know where we can rent a 37' motorhome.wink

And maybe a designated driver.no



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AYLMER, ONT

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I am In!smile  Would love to see that !



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NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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You guys are always welcome to drop by and check out the madness - literally. Not only R2...but my Dad got bored about a month ago and decided we needed to remodel the area I'm working in to give him some more room for his stuff ... soo things are kinda torn up at the moment. Could be a great thing to take the wives Christmas shopping at the outlet mall here in the Falls while you stop by our place for a while too.

Cheers!



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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The interior starts as a blank canvas with the medium changing from forming sheet metal to shaping foam(at least for a little while). The process will involve creating a basis for molds from foam, bondo and clay.





Temporary structural bracing created to hold the dash plug.


Table-saw pulled out to cut up the material for the interior.


Wood grain finish on that dash. Actually it's the beginnings of the plug for the dash created by up-cycling some remnants of plywood left over from another project. Foam will be glued to it...then shaped to the final profile.


Interior plugs are all set to go.


Thanks for checking out the build guys. smile



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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After the plywood backing was fixed in place foam sheets had to be cut to fit.

Translating the drivers door pattern onto the foam sheet.




Attaching the foam board to the plywood.





Looks like an interior created in Lego Land. With all the panels adhered to the plywood backing, braces are installed and weights placed to ensure positive contact. Now we wait...




Thanks for following along. smile



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



ONTARIO

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What type of foam are you using? Are you using construction adhesive to laminate it all ?

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NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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hemi43 wrote:

What type of foam are you using? Are you using construction adhesive to laminate it all ?


 Just using the pink foam from Home Depot...and laminating it with PL300(foam friendly).  It'll be skim coated with Bondo later for 2 reasons... one, to give me the surface finish/detail needed inside the molds and second...to prevent the resin from eating it all up.. yumm yumm..  biggrinbiggrin



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



ONTARIO

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That's why I was aking !! The pink or blue insulation foam is made from styrene, and polyester resin will make it disappear. I've been using polyester based foam from my local fiberglass supplier. It comes in 4X8 sheets in various thicknesses. A bit expensive, but it sands and carves beautifully. You could always use epoxy resin for your glass. I think you may find that the bondo might chew up that foam too. Just my 2 cents. Nice work !! Looking forward to seeing it finished.

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AYLMER, ONT

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smile NICE!!!!!!!



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CLINTON, ONT

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Thats awesome!    making it float is a cool idea...    unsinkable?  



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NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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hemi43 wrote:

That's why I was aking !! The pink or blue insulation foam is made from styrene, and polyester resin will make it disappear. I've been using polyester based foam from my local fiberglass supplier. It comes in 4X8 sheets in various thicknesses. A bit expensive, but it sands and carves beautifully. You could always use epoxy resin for your glass. I think you may find that the bondo might chew up that foam too. Just my 2 cents. Nice work !! Looking forward to seeing it finished.


 Thanks very much for the tip Dan.  I'm familiar with the polyester foam board...never used it yet though.  If it's as carving friendly as you say I'll be picking some up for another little project I'll be working on.  Since the plugs for R2's interior would be disposed of after the molds are made, I decided to run with the cheaper styrene.  Covering the styrene with bondo followed by a good coat of 2k primer and high temp mold release wax worked out very well on the plugs. 



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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Thanks for the thumbs up guys!  biggrinbiggrin



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



NORTH BAY, ONT

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A great educational posting, very interesting!!

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BRANTFORD, ONT

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Amazing !

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TORONTO, ONTARIO

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Woahh thats very impressive. Always impressed and lookin forward to updates.

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NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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Thanks Gents!

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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



ELORA, ONT

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This is one of the most amazing looking projects on the web - I'm really enjoying the build, can't wait to see it finished.

-- Edited by Gearhead on Tuesday 8th of January 2013 09:13:51 AM

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NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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Work continues on the interior.

Most of the braces have been removed. A few voids were spray foamed and preliminary feature lines sketched in with a Sharpie.


This is one of my favorite times in the vehicle building process - taking the design from 2D to 3D. After key design dimensions have been translated to the foam and I can visualize the interior’s final shape in my head, I start carving and shaping it until it feels ‘right’. In the background you can see our ‘down draft’ dust collector running ... pushing the particulate down from the immediate working area.


Various flexible straightedges are used to assist in roughing in the main features. Shaping the main dash area begins.


Moving onto the rear wall. Adhesive wasn’t applied to certain pieces, as it was easier to shape them separately. Once close, they can be permanently fixed.


40Grit moves a lot of material … fast. So care needed to be taken to bring the entire driver’s side area down as a whole.


Driver’s side area just about done. A few things to fine tune…but only after the passenger side has been completed.


Final touches to the interior plugs. Sprayfoam is being applied to some of the voids. Once dried the excess will be trimmed away and sanded for a smooth finish.


Thanks for checking out the build guys. smile



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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.

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AYLMER, ONT

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Thats wild Nick! Keep it up buddy,



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ONTARIO

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Awesome !! How does the expanded foam sand in relation to the pink foam? I've always tried to stay away from using 2 different material when doing plugs, but if the hardness of the pink foam is almost the same as the spray stuff, this would make life a lot easier. I remember gluing polyester foam together with polyurethane glue (pl2000) and the glue ridges were a nightmare. I had to cut all the glue out with a knife before I could sand. PITA !!
Like I said before, nice work, and too bad you're so damn far away !!

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NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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Thanks guys!

Hemi - The spray foam worked quite well to fill in the oddball shaped voids and adhered well to the pink stuff. Saying that, it's not as dense as pink foam and if the area is very deep it takes some time to cure. For instance if a void was 3", the outside 1" would be hard allowing me to sand the plug...but after cutting down that 1"...it was a little spongy so i had to let that cure a while before continuing. With respect to the glue ridges .. they can be a real pain(kinda gooey) if you sand into them. I planned my foam thicknesses so that I stayed away from the PL300. However, in one area I did cut through and had to use courser(40grit) sandpaper to shape the area...followed by 100 to smooth things out again.

Regards.

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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.



SANDFORD, ONT

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Nick, your workmanship is outstanding!
Gary

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Gary

54 AD truck - mild custom



NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

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Thanks for the thumbs up Gary!

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Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.

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