That is going to be one lazer straight Camino when its done! Thanks for sharing the pictures!
Thanks for the props. I guess we'll find out in another few weeks. I've never in my life worked on panels as radiused and long as these. The top of the fins go from concave to convex to more or less flat over the length of the box side. There will be a spot in them that pretty much has to have a wave because of this. the stamping would have had it right from the factory(and a whole bunch more that I was able to remove). I have a "tear drop" dura block that was sent ot me mistakenly for something else and I was going to sent it back for a refund....Glad I didn't because it has been of the utmost importance on this job. It seems to fit the shape when nothing else will. I use all edges and flats of the block. Very useful tool.
Again thanks to all for the feed back and thanks to Bob for letting me post the work pics. Some guys wouldn't want anyone to know were the work was in their ride(even though they all have it somewhere!!)
Rich
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
My 2 cents, but with all that feathering, I would have shot with feather fill again before the high build urethane. Remember, don't get too excited to sand that primer you just put on. Let it sit for at least a week, or it will come back to haunt you. Which primer did you use, BTW ?Are you using water borne base? lookin' good !!
EDIT; I looked at the previous pics and it looks like you used the Nason high build. Let me know how it sands.
-- Edited by hemi43 on Monday 3rd of September 2012 10:17:29 PM
Well hear it is ...Labour day is almost over and the Elky is primered again.
Here's a pic of some of the products I have been using on this project to do the prep work. I'm not saying they are the best, just that I use them and have had good luck with them.
The NAPA products are made by evercoat and put in NAPA packaging. That's what I have been told anyway and they work real nice. But preference is individual choice right?? Some might hate the stuff.
Anyway...
Dusty shop.......
Here it is on the way to the booth.
All primered up again!!!! Time for more sanding!!!!!!
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
I sprayed feather fill back on because I took most of it off . As you said I had a lot of feather edges and I thought it best to put it on again. The problem I found with the first round of feather fil was that even though I only mixed the last 2 quarts at once ...it was still mudding up my gun and not spraying out well near the end of the last coats. I was using a 1.8 tip which is just about the smallest they recondmend. A bigger tip would have been better but I believe the problem would have still occurred. This time I only mixed one quart at a time and cleaned the gun after each quart was sprayed. Took longer but put more on the car and way better build up(I hope). Both times that I sprayed the stuff it felt like it was 200 degrees out side when I was all dressed up in my paint suit and, glooves and mask. I will block this round with 220grit and then reprime with Nason Urethane. I find it sands ok. My buddy said it plugs up the finer grit paper alot. I like to water sand but he likes to dry sand. So again it boils down to preferences as far as what primer people like best. Bang for the buck...I like Nason primer.
The problem I have run into with the colour of the car(roof and jambs,bed, floors that are not getting painted) is that colour match is not available in waterbase or Nason base. So at this moment I am stuck using single stage urethane and will clear over it. Not the chioce I prefered but what I will probably have to do. I had the paint scanned etc. by the Dupont rep. and after several tries, that was the best colour match. Waterbase colour are not at this point being made for old colours, at least not by Dupont.
-- Edited by slab on Tuesday 4th of September 2012 06:37:24 AM
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
Bob your going to happy when you get over here next time(not that you weren't before). It's blocking out like a completely different car. I'm sorry to say but....I don't think the fins are going to be waving at you in your rear view mirror any more!! LOL
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
Well, you're definitely doing it right. When I shoot Feather fill, I use a gellcoat spraygun. It looks just like a standard gravity gun, but has a 2.5 mm tip. Even with that large of a fluid tip, I have the gun wide open. I'm curious about the paint colour !! is it solid, or metalic? If it's solid then why clear it? Having said that, I painted a 67 Dart Convertible in the early 90s and sprayed it with Centari when it was still an acrylic enamel, and then cleared it. That paint job was bullet proof, and never got any stone chips unlike straight Centari.
I used to wet sand everything too, but not anymore !! I find wet sanding can bite you in the ass by creating flaws in the primer from the edge of the paper. Now, I dry sand the final coat of urthane primer with 500 grit dry. I use the 3m powdered guide coat and get perfect results everytime. It does make more of a mess with dust, but at least I don't have a lake full of sludge on my shop floor anymore. Even when i colour sanded my car I did it all dry.
-- Edited by hemi43 on Wednesday 5th of September 2012 03:59:01 PM
The colour is metallic. The clear was on the single stage when it arrived and I beleive Bob would like to see clear on it as well. The colour is very transparent, one of the worst I've seen lately. The clear will give me options if I need them. Again...It's not my first chioce or even second choice, it is my only choice it seems. But I'll get'r done.
Thanks
Rich
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
Yeah single stage metallic was never a good way to go. The reason is because the metal flakes, which are basically aluminum flakes suspended in the paint would be too close to the outer surface of the paint thickness. Best way to explain single stage paint is to compare it to concrete. As it cures, clear in the paint floats to the surface to cover the pigment and metal flakes, just like when concrete cures the cement floats to the surface to give you a smooth surface and covers all the gravel. The problem is that the UVs from the sun chews through this very thin layer of clear in a matter of months, then the aluminum flakes are exposed to the air and corrode and then the paint looks faded. Base clear also gets chewed up by the sun, but because there's so much clear between the metal flakes and the air, it takes years before the car needs repainting.
I'd love to see the car when it's done !! It will be awesome!!
Things are looking a lot better now. Blocked the whole car with 220 and the dura blocks. Only found a couple spots that I missed in the last round. I put some polyester putty in them and smoothed them out with 220 and a block.
Pulled the car out side after pulling off all the masking paper to give it a really good cleaan up with the blow gun.
And the next picture shows the next project that arrived a day ago. Big difference from the current one . LOL
Tomorrow , Ben, Jacob and me will be in Rockton meeting up with Oldguy. We'll tour for a couple hours then I will be putting the car back in the booth, masking it up again and priming it with 3 coats of urethane primer.
Rich
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
Hey ! Look more pictures of the car getting primed up!! WOW. I am hopeful that this will be the last round of block sanding.....400grit. Then the Elky should be ready for a good clean up and paint job.
Nothing really exciting about block sanding execpt that the car is one set closer to the shiney stuff.
Rich
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
Bob.....now remember that if you shoot me.........I won't be able to paint any of your other cars.......right??? LOL
But really ...I know what your thinking and you aren't allowed to shoot me................
Oh yeah and all you production painters who might look at this....don't laugh tooo hard at my extreme masking LOL I have alot of respect for the painters that don't require much masking and can put the paint only where they want it. I just can't afford over spray on stuff.
Sorry I've been off the air for a while but I didn't think more pictures of a blocked out or primered car would be required. Total blocking was three times for this one. At this point I blocked the car with 320 grit to get rid of the primer orange peel and will finish with 400 grit to get the 320 scratches out. the Urethane paint doesn't requiire more than that. I will do the final sanding after I get the paper off the car from doing what I am going to show you in pics as soon as they get done loading into Photobucket. Now I can imagine that there are people that wouldn't do what I did at this point but I choose to because the paint colour is really transparant and I want all doors and hood , gate etc closed so I can walk right down the side without stopping(or that is the plan anyway). Also this is not a doors off resto, high end paint it in peices job. Tape edges will be minimal.
Thanks Rich
-- Edited by slab on Thursday 20th of September 2012 09:34:25 PM
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
Thanks and no problem. I should clarify something about what I just did. The front steel around the grille area didn't want to come apart and Bob didn't really want me to go as far as I did with this anyway. It was almost like the pieces where tack welded together????? I am taking a few risks painting some of this like I am(i think masking it up in the front will be easier on the final paint with the steel already done) but we'll see if it pans out in the end. The million layers of paint chipped the paint around the edges in some spots when we stripped it so I had to do some of the jams(which wasn't in the plan!).
The pics are before I put the clear on. Everything seems to be real nice so far. the paint and Clear went on real smooth.
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
Ok let me clarify again.....Bob's not mad at me......It's just a running joke that everytime he sees it I've taken something else off or done a little more than we had planned. The "shoot me " comment came last weekend when we were talking about another car of Bob's and I decided to run with it... LOL Computer talk is so hard to understand...LOL
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
Tomorrow , Ben, Jacob and me will be in Rockton meeting up with Oldguy. We'll tour for a couple hours then I will be putting the car back in the booth, masking it up again and priming it with 3 coats of urethane primer.
Rich
Hmmm Arn't you forgetting someone...Just Kidding!...if it wasn't raining OldGuy was going to call me.
Great work on the Elky. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Hmmm Arn't you forgetting someone...Just Kidding!...if it wasn't raining OldGuy was going to call me.
Great work on the Elky. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Hi Ben
I know your kidding but that post was for the early rockton sept8th?? When you were doing something else. It did rain that day as well. You and Oldguy make swap meets fun again. Good friends and my boys and lots of car junk!!! Doesn't get much better than that. Ben says Hi back at ya Kurt. He really wants to get his car in the shop. Soon I tell him, soon. We've bench raced it a lot lately. LOL
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
Here's some pics of the Elky. Lots of paint on this. These are before clear. Clear went on OK. Need to watersand and polish it now to get rid of the peel.
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
looks good !! I know what you mean about the "peel" !! Not sure what gun you're using, but I threw the recomended pressure settings for my Sata 2000 out the window. The last complete I painted I set the pressure at the gun to 45 PSI. The clear was dead smooth, and the clear was 12 years old !! Uses more material, but who cares.