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Post Info TOPIC: Sheet Metal Work


ONTARIO

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Sheet Metal Work
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It will be easier to get a roof panel from the wreckers and replace yours. Another way is to use panel adhesive. This may sound "Mickey Mouse", but the result will be excellent. Again, go to the wreckers and cut a roof panel from a donor truck, glue it to your original roof. All you will have to do is blend the lip (if you want to) and the job is done. Best part is there will be no warping, and no body filler needed. If you're lucky, you'll find one the same colour.
Panel adhesive is available from Napa, and is used to bond aftermaket body panels just like I explained.



-- Edited by hemi43 on Tuesday 4th of September 2012 08:36:55 PM

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BRAMPTON, ONT

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I have an 84 s10 with a sunroof that I just don't want its a PITA. I'm looking to have sheet metal welded in. Can anyone around the GTA do this or know a reputable shop to go to? I'm not worried about the paint as I'd be happy with primer.



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NEWCASTLE, ONT

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Why don't you just drop on a cab and box from a '47-55 Chevy/GMC truck?
I have the plans to make the cab mounts in my computer. The S-10's can be easily customized with off the shelf parts to drop it in the weeds if you wanted to!
If that's a short box-extended cab you have, it's the correct frame to be a donor.

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/166836/

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BRAMPTON, ONT

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I would love to as I love the old body gm trucks. Just do not have the money for anything like that just yet.


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BRAMPTON, ONT

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You have got the wheels turning though

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COBOURG, ONT

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to fix ur roof is likely not worth all the work and expense.  i would simply fasten a sheet of steel over the hole, seal it and paint it and replace the headliner in the cab.

its only the roof so who is really going to see it?



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ONTARIO

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fatstax wrote:

to fix ur roof is likely not worth all the work and expense.  i would simply fasten a sheet of steel over the hole, seal it and paint it and replace the headliner in the cab.

its only the roof so who is really going to see it?


 Chinese people wont see it !! biggrin



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COBOURG, ONT

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unless they in a tour bus, dont forget the tour buses.



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MARKHAM, ONT

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hemi43 wrote:
fatstax wrote:

to fix ur roof is likely not worth all the work and expense.  i would simply fasten a sheet of steel over the hole, seal it and paint it and replace the headliner in the cab.

its only the roof so who is really going to see it?


 Chinese people wont see it !! biggrin


 You of all people should know this is incorrect. Standing on a fender or hood gives a nice view up there.....



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PUGSY


MARKHAM, ONT

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The ''glue in the new piece'' sounds like the best idea. Only comment I can add is to use offset pliers on the roof opening to get the new piece flush. A skim of bondo is all it will need.


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ONTARIO

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123pugsy wrote:
hemi43 wrote:
fatstax wrote:

to fix ur roof is likely not worth all the work and expense.  i would simply fasten a sheet of steel over the hole, seal it and paint it and replace the headliner in the cab.

its only the roof so who is really going to see it?


 Chinese people wont see it !! biggrin


 You of all people should know this is incorrect. Standing on a fender or hood gives a nice view up there.....

Hahahaha !!


 



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ONTARIO

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123pugsy wrote:

The ''glue in the new piece'' sounds like the best idea. Only comment I can add is to use offset pliers on the roof opening to get the new piece flush. A skim of bondo is all it will need.


 The problem with the offset pliers is that there will only be a 1/2 inch or so of lip for the glue. When using panel adhesive I like at least 2 inches of overlap. This method (when feasable) is a superior way of installing panels like half quarters.



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ONTARIO

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123pugsy wrote:

Hey Hemi.

What kind of thickness do you think a 2" band of adhesive would comsume?

1/32" or maybe 1/16"?


 Not too much !! I would say 1/32 or less

 What I've done in the past is to drill a few 1/8 holes, and rivet the panel together until the epoxy cures. I then drill the rivets out and epoxy the holes closed. The whole idea is to have the thickness of the epoxy be as small as possible. The patch panel epoxy comes in siamese caulk tubes, and costs about $50. I think 1/4 of the tubes should be sufficient for what he's doing. IMHO, it's too much hassle, and not enough gain to roll that lip. If it was me, this is what I would do;

I would cut the truck's original roof out to the outer edges, leaving the 2" perimiter for the donor roof to bond to. This requires removing most of the original roof, but what this will do is get you close to the outside edges where there will be more rigidity. I would then trim the donor roof to the outer edges, and bond it to the truck. In theory, the fit will be perfect, and the only ridge even after gluing should be the thickness of the donor roof, which is about .030" . The glue squeeze out can the be sanded smooth, or/and feathered with a bit of filler.

Hard to explain in writing, but hope you can understand what I'm trying to say.



-- Edited by hemi43 on Thursday 6th of September 2012 08:55:35 PM

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MARKHAM, ONT

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Maybe he could get a piece of donor roof and run an offset bead so the patch has a 2" offset flange. It would have to be installed from below.

I'd be game to try it on my bead roller.

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BRAMPTON, ONT

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I'm gonna look around for a scrapyard truck that I can get the patch pannel from. I may have to take you up on the bead roller offer unless theres another way for me to get an offset.

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MARKHAM, ONT

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scott420p wrote:

I'm gonna look around for a scrapyard truck that I can get the patch pannel from. I may have to take you up on the bead roller offer unless theres another way for me to get an offset.


 No problem.

Get a patch piece, hold it up from inside and scribe a line on it and we'll get her fixed up for you.

 



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BRAMPTON, ONT

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Perfect thank you. I will PM you soon when I have got everything together. I'm gonna go hunting for one this weekend.

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MARKHAM, ONT

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I guess I better get working on the dies.....

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MARKHAM, ONT

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Hey Hemi.

What kind of thickness do you think a 2" band of adhesive would comsume?

1/32" or maybe 1/16"?


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MARKHAM, ONT

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Personally, I always think of the smallest repair possible. Bigger just seems like more work but this may not necessarily to be the case.

Of coarse I've never done a roof fill in before or glued in a panel, so my experience in this method is nil.

I have done an overlapping patch before and I just don't like doing it this way.

Leaving it back far enough from the roof edge would be key to achieve a good feather as you mentioned earlier.

Does the roof panel have reinforcing bracing underneath?
This is something else to consider.

Anyways, its up to the OP on which method he prefers.

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BRAMPTON, ONT

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I do have some bracing underneath and am not opposed to putting a little more. I think i'm gonna try the first way mentioned because if it doesn't work well I can still do it the other way mentioned. I will try it out and see if it works. Thanks for all the input.

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