I have been using a Campbell Hausefield gravity feed ($129.00 at CTC) for 10 years,,works for me but I only do a couple of paint jobs a year now. I used the CH to paint my doctors car with waterbourne paint,,,no problem but that paint is unique in that it does not dry to quick. My old Devilbiss suction feed and 30 years old is on the shelf,,I only use it for priming. Saw a guy trying to paint with a new Sata 3000 digital,,,nice gun but it was in the wrong hands,,,he couldn't paint a fence., so it does not really matter how much you spend..the only gun i have seen that absolutely would not atomize paint was a $29.00 BULLDOG TM
-- Edited by Jazz on Tuesday 20th of November 2012 05:48:11 AM
I bought a GTI new, and couldn't get rid of it fast enough. I now have a Sata 2000, as well as a Sata Mini Jet touch up gun.
The secret to a perfect job IMHO, is to not follow manufacturer's recommendations. Crank the pressure up !! Sata recommends 29PSI. Yeah right !! I shoot my clear closer to 40.
-- Edited by hemi43 on Tuesday 20th of November 2012 06:59:19 AM
I am currently using a Millinium GTI by devilbiss but with waterbourne and low VOC paints/clears I was thinking a new gun might be a good idea. I have heard that the tekna?? is supposed to be what guys are using but thought I would throw the question out there and see what responses come in. SATA also seems very popular. And in actual fact .. I have not heard many that liked the Millinium gun that I have been using.
Rich
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
I agree with jazz, the gun doesn't make a person a painter. After forty years of restoring cars and painting them I have learned that. I have a Tekna and a Sata 4000. Use one for color and one for clear. My all time favorite is still the devilbiss 502. An old school gun for old school paint, ah the good old days...........
I bought a GTI new, and couldn't get rid of it fast enough.
-- Edited by hemi43 on Tuesday 20th of November 2012 06:59:19 AM
So what was the issue with the gun?? Mine was a present and since I was not using a HVLP gun as of yet(had a Snap-On siphon feed which I believe was a binks re-named and a Optima gravity feed) I was more than happy to have it. I have done well with it (I ain't a GREAT ! painter) and always managed to get the job done with it. I have been talking with a fellow painter and were discussing whether it is the best chioce for the low VOC paints. I have had some issues as of late and maybe it is just the new type of clear and haven't really gotten a handle on it yet.
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
I agree with jazz, the gun doesn't make a person a painter. After forty years of restoring cars and painting them I have learned that. I have a Tekna and a Sata 4000. Use one for color and one for clear. My all time favorite is still the devilbiss 502. An old school gun for old school paint, ah the good old days...........
I agree with Jazz as well...but since the intro of waterbourne I pretty well have to step up to something else. I bought a devilbiss finishline for primer that will do waterbase as a temporary fix for both the need for a new primer gun and a waterbase gun. I am interested in how the tekna gun works? Are you using it for the base?? I have seen videos of a guy saying he switched from Sata to Tekna and wouldn't go back (I wonder how much they paided him??LOL) Any more info would be great, I am having more difficulty with clears at this moment. I think it's time just to buy a gallon and start experimenting on some spare parts. I don't paint enough cars.
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
I'm no painter either, but I hated that GTI !! It would not atomize clear very well. The base was not too bad though. Right out of the box the Sata was wonderfull, but I've learned over the years that (probably because I'm not a proffesional painter) I need to crank the pressure up. Painting is like anything else, you have to do it all the time or else you'll get rusty. The last complete I painted was a truck I did for my Son about 5 months ago, and the one before that was my car which was 6 years ago. I used Dupont Chroma Premier 72500 clear that was 12 years old (still sealed) and it flowed like glass.
I use the Sata for color and the Tekna for clear. Have several needle,fluid tip, and cap combinations for both guns. I have found the Sata has a bit better atomization of the base coat colors (depending on the grit of the metalic or pearls). The Tekna gun with a 1.3 needle and matching tip and cap will lay down clear as good as a "BIG DOLLAR" gun. Don't be afraid to use a bit more air pressure than recomended. Always use a high end clear and minimum of three coats. When it comes to clear you do "Get What you Pay For"........
I use the Sata for color and the Tekna for clear. Have several needle,fluid tip, and cap combinations for both guns. I have found the Sata has a bit better atomization of the base coat colors (depending on the grit of the metalic or pearls). The Tekna gun with a 1.3 needle and matching tip and cap will lay down clear as good as a "BIG DOLLAR" gun. Don't be afraid to use a bit more air pressure than recomended. Always use a high end clear and minimum of three coats. When it comes to clear you do "Get What you Pay For"........
Those are great tips !! Higher pressure, quality clear and 3 coats (maximum)
I have been persueing the problem for quite sometime now (new bigger airlines, new bigger fittings in the hose connections etc) because it just seemed like I didn't have enough air volume for the gun?? The lack of atomization seems to be the same thing I have been fighting with. I 've switched tips but haven't tried the smallest thinking I needed more material. I guess I'm to the stage now where it's either the painter or the gun! Maybe I should get rid of both!!?? LOL Thanks for the responses.
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
You are likely correct about lack of air volume,,use bigger fittings 3/8". I had the same problem of poor atomization with a borrowed gun so I ran it directly from my compressor for a test to eliminate restrictions from my "condenser line and fittings at water separator etc,,made a world of difference. I have a 18cfm @90 compressor and for HVLP you need a ,minimum of 10cfm @90 IMO. Most home compressors are around 5 to 7 cfm
That might be the problem ..I have an industrial I R compressor that needs a rebuild bad but I haven't had a slow down enough to do the rebuild. That might explain why it has not been a problem back when I first got the gun. I am also using an air dryer unit that is supposed to flow 50cfm but it as well isn't new anymore. Thanks for the suggestions. I have the 3/8 fittings already as part of my attempts to solve the problem.
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
I run line pressure to my gun (100 psi) and have a regulator about 2 feet away from the gun. This is where you hold the air hose with your left hand, so the regulator which is small does not get in the way. This will also get rid of any volume issues, which IMHO you don't have. Do yourself a favour and try higher pressure. You would be amazed at how better your atomization will be with even 5 more PSI.
The LS400 Super Nova is hands down one of the best out there....Made by Anest/Iwata, I use it for all my clear coating, the fluid flow alone is superior to any gun I have ever used. Great controls and the adjustments that you have in the pattern size and volume amount superior. Not to mention it`s one sexy looking peice!
That is certainly a high tech looking gun!! Iwata is know for high quailty especially in the air brush field. What are you using to spray base? Great paint on that bike! Love that style of flames.
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
Believe it or not I use a Starting Line gun by Devilbis, they are cheap and work just fine I have used it for everything from Lacquer (yes I still have Lacquer) to Base and Water borne…I always put my money in the clear guns and use Iwatta airbrushes exclusively..
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You dont like it?? Tough S$#t.... I didnt spend my money to make you happy....
Believe it or not I use a Starting Line gun by Devilbis, they are cheap and work just fine I have used it for everything from Lacquer (yes I still have Lacquer) to Base and Water borne…I always put my money in the clear guns and use Iwatta airbrushes exclusively..
Do you mean the plastic fluid tipped " Finish Line" ? They were a good gun, and I was actually able to spray Centari with it. I painted this tank (not with Centari)years ago with that cheap gun. I now use it for primer.
Through Hawks(eastwood) they are about 219.99 in the latest book that I have. They are sold in a three gun kit for that price. There are 2 gun sets and probably individual as well.
My Finishline gun does not have a plastic needle either. I stated that my snap-on gun was a binks clone...I remember now it was a sharpe renamed....not that it matters.
Rich
-- Edited by slab on Sunday 25th of November 2012 09:04:24 PM
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
Believe it or not I use a Starting Line gun by Devilbis, they are cheap and work just fine I have used it for everything from Lacquer (yes I still have Lacquer) to Base and Water borne…I always put my money in the clear guns and use Iwatta airbrushes exclusively..
Do you mean the plastic fluid tipped " Finish Line" ? They were a good gun, and I was actually able to spray Centari with it. I painted this tank (not with Centari)years ago with that cheap gun. I now use it for primer.
No not the Finish line...these do not have palstic fluid tips......
What kind of money do they want for those guns? It's nice to see there's no plastic parts. I still have to find out where you're located. Maybe DaveM and I will stop in once so we can meet.
.96 per can at Wal Mart (U.S.)
