Is there such a thing as a reasonably priced engine rebuilder anymore? Got a couple prices on getting a pair of heads rebuilt and almost fell over, i didn't ask about getting the block punched out/ bottom end done. I know that 10 years ago or so it cost me 2 grand for machine work alone for a 283. Just wondering...
If you are only worried about the heads, why not find some decent condition 305 heads and put them on your shortblock. That gives you the early block (to appease the MOE) and also gives you hardened valve seats for todays gas.
305 heads also give you double valve seals I think ... the little 0-ring and the umbrella type. What I mean is that each valve gets both seals.
-- Edited by Pint and a Pound on Saturday 8th of December 2012 12:37:18 PM
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If at first you don't succeed you do have options ... lower your standards or just plain quit are the two I usually choose from :)
Reason i ask is because i bought this engine hoping it was going to be as it was offered and be able to install it with minimal cost involved because i didn't want to do a full blown rebuild of an engine because i don't want to spend big $$$ on it. I bought this engine that was supposedly rebuilt, ya it was to an extent, but of course not poperly. It's still original bore, bottom end has been apart, looks like it's had new rings put in it because there is no ridge at the top of the cylinders, had a quicky hone job, the heads were taken apart and they buffed the valves and put new valve seals on them and threw them back together grooves in valve faces and all! So now i have this 283 sitting here that needs its heads completely gone through and i just can't justify $800 to rebuild them, let alone punching it out too. If this engine was an original to the vehicle that i have then i might be able to swallow that pill a bit easier but God almighty they are only 283 heads. Some will say well do a 350, but i want something '67 and older to avoid emmissions' issues.
I use Roger Tennant Automotive in Port Perry & found him to be a very honest business. He 's done 3 engines for me & won't screw you over. If you just want the machine work done, or have his shop do a complete build up.I usually have the engine back in parts as Ilike to assemble my own. I took my camshaft to him to see what it was,[ bought a complete engine & didn't know what the cam was] he asked me questions on carb. size, what rear gears & trans I was running, checked the cam lift & duration, handed it back & said" perfect" for what your running,put it back in" he could have sold me a new one!!! He's also reasonable on pricing for performance parts too, bought my Edelbrock carbs & manifolds & Comp Cams from him at or below speed shop prices!! Pete
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I can only please one person a day, Today is not your day!!Tomorrow doesn't look good either !!!!
Thanks for the inputs guys. Just wanna go with a bone stock rebuild, as much as i liked my modified stuff, this one will be the mildest yet, lol. I must be getting old...
$800 is steep to go through a stock set of heads...hell you can go by a brand new set of Aluminum Edlebrock easy-street series heads for $959 for the pair! they have 2.02/1.60 valves, 70cc chambers and are good for hydraulic cams up to .500 lift.....
-- Edited by MADSCI on Monday 10th of December 2012 12:56:28 PM
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You dont like it?? Tough S$#t.... I didnt spend my money to make you happy....
I know of an old fart who lives in his shop and is semi retired that does good work cheap. Just don't be in a hurry...
He is located in thornhill and has tons of old engines and parts. Same guy has the 283 I am put up for sale for him. He still has several 283's laying around.
$800 is steep to go through a stock set of heads...hell you can go by a brand new set of Aluminum Edlebrock easy-street series heads for $959 for the pair! they have 2.02/1.60 valves, 70cc chambers and are good for hydraulic cams up to .500 lift.....
-- Edited by MADSCI on Monday 10th of December 2012 12:56:28 PM
Thats what i mean, i can't justify the cost for just little old 283 heads. I've been looking at the aftermarket aluminum ones online and might go that route......or just buy a crate 350/290hp and be done with it. Be nice to have an all new engine, but a 283 sounds so much better when talking about an old vehicle versus a 350 imo.
-- Edited by Jeep4752 on Monday 10th of December 2012 06:05:22 PM
I know of an old fart who lives in his shop and is semi retired that does good work cheap. Just don't be in a hurry...
He is located in thornhill and has tons of old engines and parts. Same guy has the 283 I am put up for sale for him. He still has several 283's laying around.
Any contact info on this guy if anyone is interested in having some machine work done?
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If at first you don't succeed you do have options ... lower your standards or just plain quit are the two I usually choose from :)
I know of an old fart who lives in his shop and is semi retired that does good work cheap. Just don't be in a hurry...
He is located in thornhill and has tons of old engines and parts. Same guy has the 283 I am put up for sale for him. He still has several 283's laying around.
Any contact info on this guy if anyone is interested in having some machine work done?
Wright engines - 905-881-4939
Do not be in a hurry. He is a 70 year old guy, who doesn't move very fast.
its not steep............. its reality ............ for a quality set ...... guides 3 angle....... new valves ,springs ,keepers ect ,maybe screw in studs ect.....
and yes aluminum is the way to fly today......... edelbrock performer rpm i buy em for little over grand and bolt em on and go ,,,,,, best value going on the market !!
also no sence rebuilding connecting rods either ........ scat pro i beam $275 set good for 650hp
