Hey guys, I hope someone can help me out! I'm looking for a fuel tank that will fit in a 20"x 33" opening, maybe 6-8" thick. I mounted an s10 blazer tank(20 gal) and thought it was going to be perfect. Until I put the body back on and now the tank rides about 6" off the ground. Steep parking lot entrances will definitely have it dragging. I can raise it with no problems, but I don't want to lose any more trunk space unless I have to. Please throw me some ideas!
Or you could build your own. i built the one in my 29 and had a rad shop pressure test it for me. Worked out great especially when space is a real concern.
a 80's cutlass tank should work, i used a 70's chevelle tank in my buick, fit perfect, all i had to do was relocate the fill neck from the back to the drivers side to utilize the stock filler location. a blazer tank is too deep.
It will have to be made from 4 pieces for a rectagular tank. 2 end plates with the edges hammer formed with a radius and the body itself is made from 2 "L" shaped pieces. I used a sender from a mid 2000 GM but used the in tamk pump. If you're using a mechanical pump, I would still use the same unit, but would remove the in tank pump and replace it with a piece of tubing.
This is the type of unit I used because they are spring loaded and will vary if I recall 3-4 inches. After thinking about it, it wont work for your application because you need such a short tank. These are great, because they have the pump, sender, pressure line, return line and vent all in one.
This is the only picture I could find of a tank that I've built. I posted it so you can see what I mean by hammer forming the end caps. This is a 3 piece tank because it's round. Rectangular tanks must be made in 4 pieces because it's impossible to bend a square with a standard sheet metal brake.
-- Edited by hemi43 on Friday 1st of February 2013 09:02:09 PM
If I build my own, would you recommend folding one piece around for the top bottom and two ends, then cap the other two sides? Hemi 43, are those sending units from a particular vehicle? I'm using a mech pump on the engine so I only need to have the sending unit for a guage.
You're looking for a tank that's 6" thick !! You're not going to find an OEM one that will fit. IMO your only option is to fab one up, or try and find one that was used in a different application like a boat. Some of them had Poly tanks mounted under the floor and were not too deep!! Ya gotta make a decision soon, because in a few weeks it will be 70 degrees and sunny out !!
I built my gas tank cause i am too cheap to part $$ for fuel cells which are a great alternative and no doubt you could find one of the size you require. I later came across a marine fuel tank of the proper dimensions for my truck.,,it was $20.00
Go with the Mustang tank and get it over with, I used one in a 48 Pontiac and it worked very well. The top of the tank acts as the trunk floor ,if you have to do any cutting,so they install easily.If a clod like me can make it work anybody should be able to use it . Ed
I've been workin on the other end of the car lately but I think I figured out a solution. I need to c- notch about 2", so I'll be stepping up the frame and floor at that point. I'm going to raise the trunk floor behind the notch to the same level. I'll lose trunk space, but not as much as I thought in my original post. So I think I'll stick with the blazer tank, it clears my springs and shocks, and the filler tube lines up pretty good with the fender that it needs to come out of.
Follow this link for plastic fuel tank. Comes with fuel sending unit that utilizes Stewart Warner wiring pattern fuel gauge. Match your dimensions from more than 100 different tanks.
It will have to be made from 4 pieces for a rectagular tank. 2 end plates with the edges hammer formed with a radius and the body itself is made from 2 "L" shaped pieces. I used a sender from a mid 2000 GM but used the in tamk pump. If you're using a mechanical pump, I would still use the same unit, but would remove the in tank pump and replace it with a piece of tubing.
This is the type of unit I used because they are spring loaded and will vary if I recall 3-4 inches. After thinking about it, it wont work for your application because you need such a short tank. These are great, because they have the pump, sender, pressure line, return line and vent all in one.
This is the only picture I could find of a tank that I've built. I posted it so you can see what I mean by hammer forming the end caps. This is a 3 piece tank because it's round. Rectangular tanks must be made in 4 pieces because it's impossible to bend a square with a standard sheet metal brake.
-- Edited by hemi43 on Friday 1st of February 2013 09:02:09 PM
If you use the sending unit froma 1997 and older Chev truck, that sending unit comes with a pump that can be replaced on its own. Teh 1998 and newer truck come with sending units that have integral fuel pumps that cannot be easily replaced. The 98+ pump/sender can cost from $400-$600 while the older 1997 and back pumps can be had for $75 for just the Delco ppump itself. The 1997 pump I am talking about is the GM pump that is recommended by GM Performance pArts for its 350hp Ramjet 350 and its 500hp Ramjet 502 crate engines. But with the older 1997 and back sending units, you do lose that 3-4 inches of height adjustability that you get with teh above pictured sending units. GM did this so tha they can use teh same pump/fuel sensing unit in a variety of fuel ytanks.
This is the sending unit from a 1997 1/2 ton Vortec 350 truck GM part number 19111415
This is the pump from the same vehicle 25163473
this is a pump from a 2008+ GMT900 flex fluel truck. Guys are using this pump on aftermarket supercharged GEN 4 engines.