Used 220v machines command a high price. Look into Everlast in Burlington if you want a loaded AC machine for a fraction of the cost - it's offshore but supposedly has Siemens guts in them;
The 250EX is likely going to be my next machine - New Millers are retardedly priced
http://www.everlastwelders.ca/tig-welders/powertig-250ex.php

I'd also look into what Thermal Arc has for AC TIG's - I heard they were coming out with an all new machine. 

Alot of the older hydro sucking industrial transformer machines are still single phase, and can be run on 220v if they have the tap provision on the transformer. Just because someone lists it as 575v, or it has a heavy duty 575v rated plug on it,  does not mean that it is only 575v or 3 phase. you have to look at the rated input voltage of the particular machine.  Your looking for 208/230/460/575V for voltage, and you will see 1/60 which is single phase, 60 cycle. As long as you see 230v, single phase, 60hz ,  should be good.

My Precision Tig is rated 208/220V, and is delivered with the 220v plug attatched. There is a seperate version of it for 460/575v.  The Precision Tig is not an inverter machine.

hemi43 wrote:

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Any TIG welder in the 200 amp range will be 220volt !! Stick with Miller or Lincoln because they are the standard out there. You get what you pay for when it comes to welders !! Actually, that applies to anything !!
I have an older Hobart TigWave 250, and when it dies I will be buying a Lincoln Precision Tig 225. It's an excellent machine and I have had excellent luck with other Lincoln machines I've owned in the past.
This will be the last machine you will ever buy, so why not just buy a new one? I've seen used ones sell at Auction for about $1700, but it's used, and who knows how much it's been used and abused!

You may get lucky like DaveM and find one that's fairly new, but it will be a difficult find. IMO, keep away from no-name welders because It's nice to be able to go to your local welding supplier and buy consumables that are on the shelf.
If you plan on doing any aluminum other than thin sheets, the 225 amp is the lowest I would go. Even my machine rated at 250 has difficulty welding thicker aluminum without pre-heating.

My 5cents !! If I put my 2cents in it would rounded down to zero !!

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 Hemi, I was refering to used 220v machines being scarce is because the majority of AC Tigs out there are 575v. The 220's are sought after and pricy. I would I look at new over used myself because as you mentioned they can be run hard. I missed out on a deal of a lifetime on a 220v 250a synchrowave C/w cooler for $1k out of a cwb testing facility. The thing was virtually new. Missed it by 1/2 hour...

If you consider a new inverter machine, look into these. I'm hearing good things about them.

http://www.htpweld.com/products/tig_welders/tig201.html

or look into Thermal Arc - another solid product priced better than Miller & Lincoln.

http://store.cyberweld.com/tharc186tigw.html?gclid=CJ_gkf3hvbUCFcZFMgodgRUAUQ#pdItemDataTabs

Again, nothing against Miller or Lincoln. I own both as well as a Thermal Arc unit. When buying for my company, its usually Miller. The only reason I bought what I have is because I found well priced used machines. If my only alternative was to buy new (for play) It would only be HTP, Thermal Arc or Everlast for the dollars and sense of it

Gearhead wrote:

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Yes almost all modern machines are now multi voltage. The majority of the used machines that i see that have 200+ amps and AC capabilities are the old, hydro sucking transformer machines. If buying new, voltage is no issue

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 Hmmm !! Hydro sucking?  I don't think the newer machines are anymore efficient. Other than the resistance of the transformer windings in the older machines(which is minimal) I really don't see any difference as far as opperating costs.

IMO, the smaller size of the inverter machines is the only advantage of them . An older transformer machine will last much longer than the electronics loaded new ones.

It seems like the real heavy duty machines being sold today are still the transformer types, so that's gotta tell you something right there. Infact, welders are probably one of the few items that are almost 100% efficient. The energy you put in, is almost the same amount you get out.

Beachcat wrote:

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going to look at a lincoln precision tig 185 tomorrow.

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 whats the thickest material you want to weld?

185 amps on alum might be light at the top end depending on what you are doing. Generally speaking, you will be limited to 3/16" thick.

1/8" thick materials will be no problem

hemi43 wrote:

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Generally speaking, you will be limited to 3/16" thick.

1/8" thick materials will be no problem

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 Correct me if I'm wrong but you mean in a single pass right?  Could I not weld thicker with multiple passes? I'm not really getting the connection between thickness and amperage. Unless the thicker material is a bigger heat sink and therefore needs more amps to melt the pool . And if that's the case, would pre-heating help?

Beachcat wrote:

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Thanks guys! I won't be welding anything thicker than 1/8" or at least rarely. I do have my mig also.  And I'm looking at used because I have too much other stuff to spend money on. If I can get a decent one at 1/2 the price of new and NO TAX!! I'm in. Maybe it's false economy but at least it's doable.

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 I forgot you had the spoolgun. In that case, you are all set - a 185amp machine is plenty.

A rule of thumb I like is having 25% more power than required in vehicles and equipment. No need puting something to the wall every time. I use a foot pedal and control and like a hot start for pre-heat and tacking. (floor the pedal and idle back when I run the bead)

nothing like the stacked dime look!

Yes I think the 185 has pulse.

Thanks for all your advice guys!

Beachcat wrote:

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Where is the best place to buy welding rods?

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 Any welder supplier will have it. Praxair, Linde, air liquide etc..

Here's what you should have a bit of each  on hand IMHO !!

For steel and Chromoly tubing;

.062 ER-70-S2

.093 ER-70-S2

For welding 6061 Aluminum;

.062 5356

.093 5356

For welding cast or 3003;

.062 4043

.093 4043

For welding disimillar metals or stainless;

.062 308L

Again, this is just my recommendation !! Also you will need some tungsten. I use 2% thoriated (red) for 95% of my welding, but the purists will claim that only pure tungsten (green) should be used for aluminum. My favorite is 3/32 dia, but once in a while I will go down to 1/16.

If you want, I can show you how I converted a dremel tool to be used as a tungsten sharpener.

.

I paid $1000. I'm pretty happy with that figure. It looks in real good shape and I was given a demo of it in action. I will take a pic when I get it off the truck tomorrow. Too freekin cold today.

Gearhead wrote:

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If you are just getting started on TIG, you will be contaminating a lot of tungs. Try sharpening the whole box of tungs which saves you lots of tips to the grinder. NEVER sharpen tungsten by holding it on an upward angle to the wheel. ALWAYS sharpen down. Tungsten is brittle like glass and can break while grinding - the last thing you want is a broken shard going through your fingers

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 thanks. i've seen a couple of videos showing it being done pointed up and thought it looked dangerous.

here's a couple of pics of the unit.

I have a bottle for my mig. I was thinking of rigging up a "Y" so I could feed either one. Was thinking of getting a helium bottle too,

Beachcat wrote:

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I would like to see that.

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 OK !! Give me a day or so to take some pics and figure out what part numbers I used.

With the Tig you kinda have to lease the larger bottles because the smaller ones that you can own will cost way too much in the long run. I ended up leasing the largest I could get, because the price per cubic foot of argon for it was about 1/3 of the little bottles.

BTW, what is the helium for ?? I've heard of heli-arc, but always thought that you needed an air tight cabinet for that type of welding. Interesting !!

I heard that an argon/helium mix is the cat's meow for tigging aluminum. So I thought I would try it.

Plus I want to breath some in and talk like a munchkin.

This device came with my welder. I realize it takes the place of the foot pedal as a hand operation amperage control. Other than when just fusing without a rod, when would this device be helpful?

Of course! I can see why you get the big bucks.

Can't see myself ever using that. But who knows. Is it worth anything for trade? I would like to get a nice swivel head torch. My torch has seen better days.