the splined piece is what the wiper arm slips over then the nut to hold it all together.
I don't think that can be taken appart !! The ones I've seen, spline and shaft are machined from the same piece, then the other end is peened over to hold the lever. A picture would help !!
-- Edited by hemi43 on Tuesday 5th of March 2013 03:40:19 PM
I got all but the small ferrel splined piece that the wiper arm slides over off. Anyone know of a good way to get the last piece apart so I can slide the gear/drive shaft out for proper cleaning and lubrication ? I did soak it well with WD40 to free up the shaft from the corrosion that happens to most rear wiper motors. So far I saved over $130.00 thats the cost of a new motor by spending a little time and WD40.
Dennis
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if the time ever comes you can't see it, you can lay on your back and do it from underneath.
You didn't say which brand of rear wiper your working on..this link may be of some help..One thing I remember about when doing this is, those shafts are anotized to delay/prevent corrosion as they mostly suffer from washer fluid wicking down the shaft causing the shaft to corrode..i know that sanding and wire brushing will remove the coating that has not already been removed from the washer fluid and they will corrode a lot faster than they did before so make sure you lube them with a good product and anti-sieze is not a good product for that enviornment it will wash away very quickly ..I have never found anything that works for more than about a year..I have the best luck with wheelbearing grease..sounds silly but it has worked best for me..try this link to see if it might help you ..
this is on our 07 Trailblazer. I usually use antisieze but forgot this time. I'll do that the next time its in the garage or whenever it gets warmer outside.
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if the time ever comes you can't see it, you can lay on your back and do it from underneath.
I did an Uplander in January. I had to push pretty good to get the shaft out. The rubber grommet in the glass was torn, shaft and bushing where a mess with dissimilar metal corrosion. I don't remember having to remove a seperate splined piece, the tapered spline was part of the main shaft. could be different on a Trailblazer i suppose.
Got a picture? Might jog my foggy memory.
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I did the one in my wifes Uplander, probably the same as a Blazer........I dont remember if I had to take the shaft right out, but I did get it loosened up enough to get it lubed up......BTW, WD40 is crap. It doesnt really lubricate, just drys up moisture
the splined piece is what the wiper arm slips over then the nut to hold it all together.
I don't think that can be taken appart !! The ones I've seen, spline and shaft are machined from the same piece, then the other end is peened over to hold the lever. A picture would help !!
-- Edited by hemi43 on Tuesday 5th of March 2013 03:40:19 PM
Well Duh !! I didn't realize you were talking about the rear wiper motor, I thought you were talking about the front pivots that the wipers go on !!
-- Edited by hemi43 on Wednesday 6th of March 2013 09:11:10 AM
That's a parts store re and re. We're looking at fixing/cleaning the corrosion off of the part allready in hand. No expense
Take it off, remove the gearbox back cover, remove the main gear and shaft, clean the corrosion off, emery cloth, and lube, (I use good quality synth grease), re-assemble.
It was about a 20 min job on the Uplander.
The new WD-40 Specialist penetrant works really well, as a rust release and penetrant, but not as a long term lubricant.
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There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.”
Atf and brake fluid or acetone works well as penetrating oil try to keep it off paint
Ya, it's the best stuff I've ever used, and cheap too. Just make sure you shake it before using, cuz the ATF settles to the bottom. You also want to put this in a spray bottle like a old WD40. The acetone will disolve some of the cheap spray nozzles.
-- Edited by parklane on Wednesday 6th of March 2013 10:17:29 PM
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If brains were wire, some couldn't short circuit a firefly.
I call that mix weasel piss...I made some up and used it on a siezed triumph tr6 engine.....pulled the plugs and poured some down each cylinder then lightly screwed the plugs back in...next day I hooked up a battery and turned the key...it was all freed up.....then disassembled the engine.....then sold the car..!
yep weasel piss did the trick!
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if the time ever comes you can't see it, you can lay on your back and do it from underneath.