Dead truck up and running

Chevypkup66 · NIAGARA on the LAKE, ONT

Dead truck

Fordy Acres Car Farm · DORCHESTER, ONT

It would seem that the ignition switch is not providing 12 volts in the run and start positions. If there is an accessory position see if the radio has power. A multi-meter is your friend here.

Also, check for burnt fusable links, not just blown fuses.

-- Edited by Fordy Acres Car Farm on Saturday 6th of July 2013 06:17:51 PM

Beachcat · WASAGA BEACH, ONT

Bryan wrote:
Look for the fusible link in line It might be burnt

Good thought!^^^^^

-- Edited by Beachcat on Saturday 6th of July 2013 07:32:24 PM

Rustynuts · MAGNETAWAN, ONT

do the headlights work since they are I believe switched on the dash.

poncho62 · ADMINISTRATOR

If you have absolutely nothing...seems to me that juice isnt getting to the ign switch...I would look for a break in the wiring harness somewhere. I think on those, the 10 gauge main accessory wire is connected to the large starter lug...connector might have rotted off

Bryan · ST MARYS, ONT

Look for the fusible link in line It might be burnt

Chevypkup66 · NIAGARA on the LAKE, ONT

I have headlights. The connection at the starter is ok. All the fuses on the panel were good except heater fuse. I will check fusable links tomorrow and post how it goes. Thanks for the help.

Model A Guy · STROUD, ONT

If this still has the '76 or '84 steering column with the ignition switch in the column, check the blue and black connectors on top of the column under the dash. Make sure that these connectors are pushed in securely. If they seem secure and the problem still exists, disconnect the battery first, just to be sure, then squeeze the two tabs on the black connector and remove it first. Then do the same with the blue connector. Check for burnt spots on the terminals, which would show bad connections. Make sure that the wires are solidly crimped, and secure in their plastic connectors. Re-install in reverse order. These two connectors are the connections for the ignition switch.
It is possible, but unlikely, that the ignition switch itself [not the key switch] on top of the column under the dash, has come loose and is out of sinc with the key.

fatstax · COBOURG, ONT

check the ground connection on the alternator bracket, ive had this problem before

Mr Samis · BRIGHTON, ONT

I just went through this with my car. The battery checked out ok. I changed the battery cables, the starter cleaned all grounds and evan added another ground. Still had the same problem. I bought a new battery and now have no problems at all. I checked the old battery with a load tester and multi meter. Two weeks of chasing down electrical gremlins when all along it was a dang battery. Good luck and don't over think it like I did.

Bruce Rossiter · TORONTO, ONT

If all the above mentioned suggestions don't help you fix it, try pulling the bulkhead connector at the firewall and check for a corroded contact.

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

wiring diagram

http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/underhoodwiring.html

make sure its out of gear or in park and short the battery connector to the solenoid if it cranks check voltage to key switch follow it back to the solenoid . Dont forget the neutral safety switch

henrys57wagon · WOODLAWN, ONT

It sounds like the safety sw is may be causing your issue, on older cars we used to have to move the gear selector while turning the key, but be careful and keep your foot hard on the brake pedal. You can unplug the purple wire connector at the switch and put a jumper between the wires and if it starts adjust the sw or replace it. If you have a meter with a continuity circuit and buzzer you can test the sw and see if you get it to buzz and adjust the switch. Hopes this helps.

Model A Guy · STROUD, ONT

I'm sure the OP appreciates all of the suggestions from the people on here, it's great that everyone is taking the time to try to help!
Let's start from the beginning... he said "No click, no juice at all. key on and nothing works,gauges,wipers,signals etc.". He did say "I have headlights".
Yes, the battery could be shot, but if he has headlights the gauges should work as well, to me that rules out the battery.
The neutral safety switch has nothing to do with the gauges, signals etc.
If the headlights work, there should be enough of a ground for the gauges to work, because the headlights are probably just grounded through the sheet metal.
To me, the problem is either ignition switch, or as Mr. Rossiter said "the bulkhead connector".
I am not trying to slam anyone, just trying to look at it logically!

poncho62 · ADMINISTRATOR

Or a broken wire in the harness.....I have seen them break in the harness just behind the distributor a number of times on Chevy trucks

Chevypkup66 · NIAGARA on the LAKE, ONT

Thanks for the help guys. I have checked all connections, jumped starter and is good. I have power to firewall and inside truck. On acc the radio works intermittently. Gauges still do not work and still no click or anything. All wires on steering column seem good. None loose or corroded. (might be time to retire truck after 25 yrs) Just kidding. I appreciate all the help. I have tried moving shifter and starting still nothing.

Fordy Acres Car Farm · DORCHESTER, ONT

As I stated above, it seems you are not getting 12 volts in the run or start positions. This is either the switch itself or the incoming power to the switch. You said you are getting power in accessory mode, but it's intermittent- this makes me think it's the switch itself. To find out for sure, you can either
(1: check for voltage at the ignition switch plug by probing the terminals with a multi-meter using the voltage setting.
(2: check for continuity at the switch itself by touching the ground with the black probe and each of the 'ACC', 'Run', and 'Start' prongs with the red probe while turning the ignition switch to each position. If your meter is so equipped, you will hear an audible tone if the switch is good - be sure to check each position on the switch multiple times to verify if the the switch is working intermittently.

Personally, I'd do both tests. If you've got reliable power at the plug, but intermittent no or continuity at the switch, replace the switch.
If you've got good continuity at the switch and intermittent no or power at the plug, you've got more work to do. Look for the obvious fusable links first, then just trace the wires back to the power source. Wires can break inside the insulation and make it hard to find the bad spot, but usually there will be tell tale signs of dry brittle insulation, abrasion, burnt or stretched wires. You can probe along the length of the wire every foot or so by probing through the insulation, but keep in mind, every perforation through the insulation is a spot for water/corrosion to set in later.

P.S. : If both tests are good, it was probably a bad connection at the ignition switch - if the plug seems to slide on and off too easy, you can use a small screw driver to close the terminals slightly at the plug.

Hope this helps! I sure hope you don't retire the truck before at least trying a few tests first!!!

Chevypkup66 · NIAGARA on the LAKE, ONT

Taking a break from it for rest of day. I have power in but that seems to be it. I have the factory clock in the gauge cluster and it should be running all the time but it doesn't run at all. It like power comes into cab and stops. I am going to ask a friends mechanic about it. Thanks for all your help guys and I will keep all this info for future use. I will let you know what happens. I couldn't retire truck if I wanted to...means to much to me...it will be fixed :)

dualquadpete · BLACKSTOCK, ONT

Check the pink wires down at the main connector on starter, using a wire probe test light, move up each wire [these are the fuse links] I'm sure you'll find a dead wire as you move up each one, they usually 'blow' part way up from starter!! If thats not it then a broken wire somewhere else as said earlier!!!

Rustynuts · MAGNETAWAN, ONT

so did you fix the problem?

Chevypkup66 · NIAGARA on the LAKE, ONT

unfortunately not :( I have checked all connections to fuse block...all good...tested all under hood red wires and all have power. I have power inside cab but still not all. Clock not working and still nothing at ignition. May have to find someone to make a house call to trouble shoot. Looks like I will be driving 66 truck and motorcycle till problem fixed.

Beachcat · WASAGA BEACH, ONT

You could trade it in on a Mopar. biggrin

hemi43 · ONTARIO

Beachcat wrote:
You could trade it in on a Mopar.

What He said !! ^^^^^^^

Fordy Acres Car Farm · DORCHESTER, ONT

A non running Chev for a running Mopar sounds fair -LOL!!

Molten · CAMBOURNE, ONT

Yeh, pretty even biggrin biggrin biggrin

poncho62 · ADMINISTRATOR

hemi43 wrote:
Beachcat wrote:
You could trade it in on a Mopar.
What He said !! ^^^^^^^

Just dont trade it for a pre 90s MOPAR....If it slightly rains or a dog pisses against the tire, that ignition system wont work for sure.....lol

Fordy Acres Car Farm · DORCHESTER, ONT

M O P A R:

Mostly Obsolete Parts And Rust wink biggrin biggrin

-- Edited by Fordy Acres Car Farm on Friday 12th of July 2013 06:01:40 PM

Beachcat · WASAGA BEACH, ONT

Fordy Acres Car Farm wrote:
A non running Chev for a running Mopar sounds fair -LOL!!

throw in a couple of fords, running or not, and I think we had an even swap LOL

Chevypkup66 · NIAGARA on the LAKE, ONT

Thanks guys. :) Have only owned GM products. My beast will be fixed. Just going to take weekend off. Still have a couple suggestions from you guys to try. Will keep you all posted. Fords and mopars are ok but I would never trade my GM for either. :)

34guy · MISSISSAUGA, ONT

Don't know much about chev truck wiring but did have a ford van with the same problem.

It was one of the big square main fuses in the panel under the hood.

oldkoot · BROCKVILLE, ONT

poncho62 wrote:
hemi43 wrote:
Beachcat wrote:
You could trade it in on a Mopar.
What He said !! ^^^^^^^
Just dont trade it for a pre 90s MOPAR....If it slightly rains or a dog pisses against the tire, that ignition system wont work for sure.....lol

My Old Pig Ain't Runnig

hemi43 · ONTARIO

Move Over People Are Racing

Beachcat · WASAGA BEACH, ONT

hemi43 · ONTARIO

Fordy Acres Car Farm wrote:
M O P A R:

Mostly Obsolete Parts And Rust

-- Edited by Fordy Acres Car Farm on Friday 12th of July 2013 06:01:40 PM

I laughed at that, but mainly because it was posted by a Ford owner. biggrin biggrin

Fordy Acres Car Farm · DORCHESTER, ONT

I can say this because there are 6 (!) 'MOPARs on the farm. Any buyers?

hemi43 · ONTARIO

Fordy Acres Car Farm wrote:
I can say this because there are 6 (!) 'MOPARs on the farm. Any buyers?

Yeah, but if you sell them. how will you be able to get around??

Fordy Acres Car Farm · DORCHESTER, ONT

hemi43 wrote:
Fordy Acres Car Farm wrote:
I can say this because there are 6 (!) 'MOPARs on the farm. Any buyers?
Yeah, but if you sell them. how will you be able to get around??

none of them run.

hemi43 · ONTARIO

Fordy Acres Car Farm wrote:
hemi43 wrote:
Fordy Acres Car Farm wrote:
I can say this because there are 6 (!) 'MOPARs on the farm. Any buyers?
Yeah, but if you sell them. how will you be able to get around??

none of them run.

Still better than a Ford IMO !! LOL

Chevypkup66 · NIAGARA on the LAKE, ONT

Dead truck up and running

Fordy Acres Car Farm · DORCHESTER, ONT

Great news!!! Glad you got it sorted!

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

Thanks for letting us know . Enjoy

Ziggy · TRENTON, ONT

Beachcat wrote:

you're with us or behind us????? more like, do I really have to push again????

Ziggy · TRENTON, ONT

Glad to hear that you got it figured out!