Basically by the sounds of it you have a broken bolt that all ready has been drilled for a easy out First check to see if its loose . because the hex was the part tensioning it. if its not i would soak it with panther piss first leave it sit, hit it with some heat from a propane torch and soak it again. Ive always preferred the tapered square one as the cone shaped twisted ones tend too bind it tighter in the hole. never remove broken plug on a LT1 but Ive remove a few broken bolts and fittings have allso had to grind down a longer length of key stock to reach deeper areas. wont hurt to stick a magnet on it so if any chips are loose it will stick to the easyout. good luck
If it still seems realy tight stop and soak and heat it some more its faster in the long run
-- Edited by slim on Monday 9th of September 2013 09:00:41 PM
Thanks guys I really appricate the help.No the hex is gone and unfortunatly the threds are flush with the block. There are some good suggestions here .The only access I have is thru the wheelwell just over the upper A arm its tight but I will try some of these tricks an let you know how we did.I may try to do a little trim on the bottom of the wheelwell to get a little more room.If it works good old dad will look like a genious if not well he was driving when it broke.Good news is at least there is time to fix it before Armprop. Ed
-- Edited by flatblack55delivery on Monday 9th of September 2013 09:39:46 PM
We have something of a problem on an LT1 engine. while driving the Roadmaster home The Boy had it really get noisie but did get it home.We looked and found the #1plug wire and half the plug had fallen out.The plug is broken of just below the nut with the threds and electrode still in the head.Looks like a rust issue as this car sat for awhile with out being started.Anybody had any luck getting this out without pulling the head.There is no ceramic in the threded part and the entire center electrode is attached to the plug that is out.Any suggestions. Ed
ive broken a s-plug off in a head leaving just the threads and the electrode but it was on a 4cyl with the plug facing you when the hood was lifted. could not get an easy out to work so i ended up just drilling it out till there was nothing left but a bit of thread from the plug left in the untouched thread of the head. then just used a pick to unwind the remains. not hard to do because it was right in front of me and the hole in the center of the remains of the plug allowed me to drill straight. should be a lot harder in your situation unless you can remove the exhaust manifold and the inner fender and wheel. heres hoping the steering isnt in your way.
my issue was in an aluminum head and this way worked fine. lather the drill bits (meaning use many drill bits to ease your way up to the final size) in grease in hopes that a minimum of shavings end up on the piston (they will hopefully end up in the grease instead). tape some fuel line or something like that to the end of your shop vac hose then stuff the fuel line in the s-plug whole in hopes of sucking up any remaining shavings.
Here`s something that has worked well for me in the past. Heat the broken threaded part up and then melt some candle wax into the threaded portion and allow it to cool down completely. The melted wax will get in between the threads on the broken plug and the head and will generally turn out with very little effort. Also by heating up the threaded plug, it will cause the inner part to swell up and when it cools down it contracts, it will be smaller in diameter than the threaded part of the cylinder head.
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Make sure you don't break off the ground electrode in the process of inserting an ez out. Try a flat blade screw driver first between the threaded shell and the ground electrode, GENTLY see if it will turn out. Don't break the ground electrode off in the cylinder.
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Peeps that is what I am wondering.They didn't look any worse than most but then I have never seen this happen while driveing either.Dave I can see that electrode thru the hole,it seems to be well attached but we will have to watch getting the thred out.Got to figure out away to do the magnet thing.The only way to see to do that is to cut a bit of the wheelwell .We will work on it tomorrow.The part that pisses off The Boy the most is this is cutting into the time he is saposed to be working on the LT1avlin. Ed
We just got it out tonight.Soak, heat, repeat.Down to PartsSource for an easy out,two nights of gosh darnits and a few geewizes and The Boy and the plumcrazey purple Roadmaster are on the road again.He drove it to work tonight,sure sounded cool rumbling down the driveway.He will be at the Fall fair show so maybe if we all put our heads together we can figure out how to change the other 7 plugs cause it was too dark and wet tonight in the driveway to start on them.Gawd I love how simple my 55 is .Everything is easy to get to this Roadmaster is a mess of wires,cables and all kinds of brake lines,transmission lines and who knows what the other lines are for.There is no room for tools or hands and no direct site lines to the plugs everything is angles and ujoints.I didn't cut the fender wells but if I can't reach those burried passenger side plugs then I'm going to reach for the sawsall for sure.I have never lost so much skin just trying to change a simple spark plug.Anyway we took a little advise from everyone and got it done finally,so thanks everybody this site really helped. Ed
We just got it out tonight.Soak, heat, repeat.Down to PartsSource for an easy out,two nights of gosh darnits and a few geewizes and The Boy and the plumcrazey purple Roadmaster are on the road again.He drove it to work tonight,sure sounded cool rumbling down the driveway.He will be at the Fall fair show so maybe if we all put our heads together we can figure out how to change the other 7 plugs cause it was too dark and wet tonight in the driveway to start on them.Gawd I love how simple my 55 is .Everything is easy to get to this Roadmaster is a mess of wires,cables and all kinds of brake lines,transmission lines and who knows what the other lines are for.There is no room for tools or hands and no direct site lines to the plugs everything is angles and ujoints.I didn't cut the fender wells but if I can't reach those burried passenger side plugs then I'm going to reach for the sawsall for sure.I have never lost so much skin just trying to change a simple spark plug.Anyway we took a little advise from everyone and got it done finally,so thanks
good to see the spiral easy out worked, ive had many plugs fail like this, especially with my tow truck since i plow with it and the salt tends to eat the plugs up. i told kurt he wouldnt have any problems since the plugs are hardened and are pretty durable. this is the other reason you change spark plugs as they can rust out
All kidding aside, one of the things I like most about this old stuff is the tinkering. (checking dwell, setting 4 corner idle, playing with timing, etc. etc.) I can jump in my daily if I want the turn key and go part. More time spending in shop, keeps me out of the pool halls, just sayin
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