Had a few minutes so I start perusing KIJIJI and find a metal lathe for sale, a little bigger than the one I have. Cool, email the owner, still have it see it on Saturday. Of course it has to rain all day.
Standard Modern 11 X 20 good shape, new 1 HP motor and some tooling including 6 quick change tool holders. Agree on a price and he loads it into my trailer with his tractor.
Get it home. Now how do I get a 1200lb top heavy lathe out of my trailer by myself. Very carefully. Rig up a sling to go around the bed and roll my gantry crane in. Hoist very carefully and place on shop floor. Spend the next couple of hours cleaning my new lathe and old lathe to put up for sale.
Good find Mike. Standard Modern made good quality stuff, and the nice part of it to me , is they were made in Canada. Great that you got that tooling with it also.
Wondering, what is the hole through the headstock ID?
Not sure but thought i heard last year they had moved to ?? possibly the lower US , and relocated there?
The headstock through hole is 1.375"
I think they are still Canadian but to get parts for it you have to go through a US company and pay "oh my" prices. The guy I bought it from replaced a couple of brass threaded lead screw parts. The price he paid for them I think I would have gone over to Hemi43's place with a case of Budweiser and had them made.
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Geez nice through hole at 1 3/8, those brass threaded lead screw nuts would be the half nuts that close around the lead screw to start it travelling.
Good that they were changed as usually they have wear/slop in them.
The headstock through hole is 1.375" I think they are still Canadian but to get parts for it you have to go through a US company and pay "oh my" prices. The guy I bought it from replaced a couple of brass threaded lead screw parts. The price he paid for them I think I would have gone over to Hemi43's place with a case of Budweiser and had them made.
Might be 2 cases cross feed etc.are smaller acne tread for the smaller sizes its a lot essayer to just tap . 2 stage tap and brass is sticky so the first run trough will be tight. I like to finish with the matching nut and screw using fine valve lapping compound you end up with a really nice fit with no backlash.
Mike ,that looks far too bulky and complicated to have laying around your shop,besides,it was born the same year as I was so I'll pop over and get it out of your way. I can bring my 4" angle grinder,should do anything you need to do as far as machining anyway....
Great find,would love to have one ,of coarse,wouldn't know what to do with it after being out of the high school machine shop for so long...
The only thing I recall from then was "don't leave the chuck key " in the chuck...
Chris.
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Might be 2 cases cross feed etc.are smaller acne tread for the smaller sizes its a lot essayer to just tap . 2 stage tap and brass is sticky so the first run trough will be tight. I like to finish with the matching nut and screw using fine valve lapping compound you end up with a really nice fit with no backlash.
Acne thread !! Sorry I had to laugh at that one.
FYI, the last thing you want to do is try and lap it all in with "lapping" compound. Lapping compound if fine for lapping in valves because both the valves and seat are made of steel. Try that with a bronze (not brass BTW) acme nut, and the lapping compound will imbed itself into the soft material and will never come out. There will always be backlash in a screw thread , because it's designed in the thread. Even the best new lathe in the world will have backlash of at least a few thou unless it uses ball screws. Sorry, I had to say something when I see wrong information posted.
Might be 2 cases cross feed etc.are smaller acne tread for the smaller sizes its a lot essayer to just tap . 2 stage tap and brass is sticky so the first run trough will be tight. I like to finish with the matching nut and screw using fine valve lapping compound you end up with a really nice fit with no backlash.
hemi43 wrote:
Acne thread !! Sorry I had to laugh at that one.
FYI, the last thing you want to do is try and lap it all in with "lapping" compound. Lapping compound if fine for lapping in valves because both the valves and seat are made of steel. Try that with a bronze (not brass BTW) acme nut, and the lapping compound will imbed itself into the soft material and will never come out. There will always be backlash in a screw thread , because it's designed in the thread. Even the best new lathe in the world will have backlash of at least a few thou unless it uses ball screws. Sorry, I had to say something when I see wrong information posted.
go back and reread the post hemi, he said 'acne TREAD' ... what you just described has nothing to do with acne tread. sheesh
Done it a few times and it has never been an issue. I could see course lapping compound being a problem . have also lapped hundreds of brass/ bronze piston shoes , valve plates, barrels and never had an issue. at 6000 psi turning 1800 rpm it would show up fast if there was a problem. Plane and simple you will never get down to a few micron finish with chunks of stuff stuck in the material. You want to see something really funny send me your brake rotors Ill lap them for free for you.
Done it a few times and it has never been an issue. I could see course lapping compound being a problem . have also lapped hundreds of brass/ bronze piston shoes , valve plates, barrels and never had an issue. at 6000 psi turning 1800 rpm it would show up fast if there was a problem. Plane and simple you will never get down to a few micron finish with chunks of stuff stuck in the material. You want to see something really funny send me your brake rotors Ill lap them for free for you.
We lap Safety valve seats that are brass to a mirror finish for a metal on metal(brass on brass) seal. No problems with compounds. These are set for "air", Water" or "Steam" and tested under certain set pressures. It's not threading ...but still brass and lapping compound.
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We used to rebuild our machines in house, I have made new cross nuts by grinding a tool bit and silver soldering it onto a steel shaft and boring the bronze and threading in a lathe. We did nuts from 1/2' and up(some as large as 4"), including triple start threaded nuts for paper cutting machines. You can also make your own tap by machining a thread onto a shaft and then grinding slots along the thread to cut into the bronze or brass nuts.
Mike, i was just looking up another Standard modern lathe, (different model,) and found your'e lathe on this site, good pics and info here about the company etc.
Hey Mike, did you get a 127 tooth gear with that machine? I'm trying to figure out a way to cut metric threads with my standard lathe, and it seems that a 127 tooth gear will allow it.
I don't think I did. I did do a little bit of reading on my lathe and it says that I can cut metric threads with a gear change too. Just don't know if I have the right gears for it though.
Will have to look into it, inquiring minds want to know.
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That lathe site has an incredible "For Sale" and "Wanted" section, plus manuals, etc.
Must have taken the guy, (Tony) a long time to put that site together !
That is the "Bible" site to go to for info for Collectors/restorers,and anyone contemplating buying an old machine.
Amazing site,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Only on the internet eh??? Lol