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Post Info TOPIC: Molasses -take that rust!


CLARINGTON, ONTARIO

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Molasses -take that rust!
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As a follow up to the other thread that lurks here somewhere, I thought I would post an example picture that clearly illustrates the rust removing power of feed grade molasses.

This axel (yes, it's a tractor part) was put in the mixture about a month ago and forgotten...I never touched it until today when I pulled it out and rinsed it off. You can clearly see the section that was not submerged as it is still rusty. The clean side looks almost freshly cast.

image.jpg

 

 

I did give this a quick wire wheeling to get some of the crud and heavy rust off before putting it in the brew, but this was only a quick once over.

 

its an easy recipe, 7-9 parts water (I used well water) to 1 part feed grade molasses from our local Co-op for about $6 a gallon.

 

 

 



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NORTH BAY, ONT

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Agreed, i have never tried it yet, but i do see reports of this working fine, not expensive and relativly enviromentaly safe. Apparently it is a slower process, if you can elaborate on that?

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CLARINGTON, ONTARIO

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Well...you know what they say about molasses...

It takes about two weeks to do a thorough job on moderate to heavy rust. I take the parts out after a week normally and give them a light wire brushing (by hand). This part I did not do that but it was in a lot longer.



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WOODLAWN, ONT

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I have been using it since the spring when I read about it on the HAMB. It is slow but when not in a hurry it does wonders. I have some punched metal soaking in a container. I don't accurately mix it with water, just pour it in and add water. They say 8- 10 to one?



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CLARINGTON, ONTARIO

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I've done some experimenting with it over the summer, the more diluted the slower it seems to work. 7:1 has been ideal for me.

It gets into intricate shapes and places you can't get wire brushes and wheels very well.

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BARRIE, ONT

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Pour 2 gals of vinegar into an old bucket with a lid throw your rusty parts in wait a week, even after a day you'll be surprised, wallpaper tray for longer parts, cheapest way and it works!

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GTA, ONT

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hotroddonnie wrote:

Pour 2 gals of vinegar into an old bucket with a lid throw your rusty parts in wait a week.


 

 

i use vinegar to kill the weeds growing between my interlocking brick.



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ETOBICOKE, ONT

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hotroddonnie wrote:

Pour 2 gals of vinegar into an old bucket with a lid throw your rusty parts in wait a week, even after a day you'll be surprised, wallpaper tray for longer parts, cheapest way and it works!


 Which do you use?

Regular household vinegar - 5%

Pickling vinegar - 7%

Cleaning vinegar - 10%

I use cleaning vinegar to restore old Coleman lanterns, eats the carbon off all the parts.



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WEST PERTH, ONT

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OK. I have some parts I wanna try out with both the molasses and the vinegar recipes.

Went to TSC for some molasses and they looked at me like I was from Mars. Can't find cleaning vinegar @ 10% either.

Where are you guys buying this stuff ? Even the little farm town 10 miles from me, that has a gas station, a pizza joint and a Country Depot, where everybody wears overalls even to Church, has nothing.

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NIAGARA REGION, ONT

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Supernash, you should try a farm feed store, maybe W-S Feed in Tavistock? I've used the cleaning vinegar with good results. It's not always available but we got it at the local Food Basics store. Much stronger stuff.

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PETERBOROUGH, ONT

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Hello: I am currently removing (trying anyway) rust from a bunch of parts. I am using vinegar in a turtle pool and electrolysis in a bucket (plastic). I haven't checked the bucket in a couple of days but the pool seems to be working. I also used an old plastic eaves trough with the ends capped for the longer parts (with the vinegar solution). It is just vinegar from the local food store but it should work (I guess) over time. Seems to be so far anyway. With this weather I have to break ice on it from time to time. I didn't know I am supposed to cover the solution. Does it make a difference? It is protected from animals by being in the garage.

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Senior Member

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Just called the co-op Yesterday As would like to try this on engine blocks...etc...
They have it in stock at .70 cents a K.G.

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St THOMAS, ONT

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I used to buy it by volume, not weight.

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WEST PERTH, ONT

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OK, I found some. Ya, it's liquid and in 4 liter jugs. Thanks Timetrav.

Thought I'd ask of you guys that have used it before a couple questions.

I wanna pull the fuel cell and put the original fuel tank back in. I have lossa time for the soak.

There shouldn't be anything for fuel in the old tank, but I'm a bit worried about the varnish and crud in it over the years. I don't really want crap to get sucked/pushed up the lines/pumps and regulators/filters let alone into the carbs.

Should I use a richer mixture, maybe in the original tank with soak mode for a few weeks and maybe re-install and kick the pump in with a bunch of filters (to be disposed of) before I connect up front ? Filters are a dime a dozen when you think about the damage that could happen if I don't think this out.

I have my 'to do list' and I'm starting at the back of the car, prolly this week, cause heavy rain coming and I don't like boredom.

What say you ?







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St THOMAS, ONT

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Don't think you need a stronger solution. I've put stuff in my solution, and forgot about it until 6 weeks later. Don't forget that it will only go after rust, and nothing else. If you're worried about varnish etc., put some reducer/lacquer thinner in first, and slosh it around first.

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WEST PERTH, ONT

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Ah, I did not know that. Thanks John.

Automotive reducer and thinner I have. Old full tins of it.

This just got interesting, cause varnish in the Lawn tractors/Blowers/mowers I do daily has always been a problem.

I swear I couldn't scrape varnish from a tecumseh float bowl with a screwdriver if my life depended on it.

A double whammy might fix this.

Thanks

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supernash wrote:

Ah, I did not know that. Thanks John.

Automotive reducer and thinner I have. Old full tins of it.

This just got interesting, cause varnish in the Lawn tractors/Blowers/mowers I do daily has always been a problem.

I swear I couldn't scrape varnish from a tecumseh float bowl with a screwdriver if my life depended on it.

A double whammy might fix this.

Thanks


 Just a word of caution Super nash Paint thinner an reducer will eat/melt foam floats your idea will work on all carbs with brass floats...



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PETERBOROUGH, ONT

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I have been doing a 60/40 mix of regular vinegar & water with my parts in a turtle pool (my wife got nasty when I suggested the Jacuzzi) and it works fine. I would add some photos of just how well it works but not sure how to add photos here yet.



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PETERBOROUGH, ONT

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Oops!   Just found how to attach images.

 



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GTA

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parklane wrote:

Don't forget that it will only go after rust, and nothing else.


 

This is interesting.  I have a neighbour with a tiny Mercedes with a factory turbo and it won't build any boost.  The problem apparently is the waste gate (or whatever they call it).  If the valve in the waste gate ends up being seized due to rust/exhaust contamination, this molasses bath might be the perfect solution. 

I don't know that the neighbour will like the wait time involved but I'll be sure to mention it to him and he can decide.

 

Very interesting though, thanks for posting. 

 

 



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