You must be thinking of cunifer (cooper-nickel) been used for brakes and fuel lines in Europe for the last 30 years will give you the look and the safety and is a dream to work with.your local auto store may carry it but Ive been getting it from here
Copper has never been used in "modern" vehicles due to the fact that with vibrations it will work harden and crack. A single flare in copper will probably leak at some point, plus, try and put a double flare into copper tube
Why would you want to ? I really can't say that I have seen anything in the rule book that says you can't ,but wayne is right about copper it does get hard, although it is used commonly in propane work ..I used to do a lot of propane conversions eons ago and we used it.. Steel fuel line is just as easy to work with and actually we use a lot of plastic fuel line now-a-days ..most all of to-days vehicles use black plastic lines and when I say plastic I am not talking about clear plastic hose ..I do not know the chemical correct name for the "plastic" we use but it comes in rolls just like steel line andI have a tool-kit to put either barbed brass ends or plastic quick connects .. Things are changing all the time in to-days fast lane..it's is hard to keep up any more..
Im not flaring the copper tube . IM going to cut the stainless steel line and run the copper line inside the tube [ s/s braided line ] This line runs from my TBI to the frame I need to make this line longer SO can I use copper tubing or do I need steel line? why IM asking is copper is easy to work with this line run along the fire wall cross the floor and to the frame steel would be apita SO COPPER YES OR NO THANKS
The pressure isn't the issue . Soft cooper doesn't stand up at all to vibration or shock the failure would be more from external factors. That being said with careful planing lots of clamps and flex transitions it could be done but in the end its still a poor choice of material for the job.
The pressure isn't the issue . Soft cooper doesn't stand up at all to vibration or shock the failure would be more from external factors. That being said with careful planing lots of clamps and flex transitions it could be done but in the end its still a poor choice of material for the job.
a side note if i may, this line kind of stuck out. "Soft cooper doesn't stand up at all to vibration or shock"
many-many years ago, late 70's, i was driving for a company running torornto/vancouver. they ordered maybe 50 new freightliner tractors and the crossover fuel line between the 2 tanks ran along a bracket into the bottom of the tanks. only one tank feeds the pump so the line made the fuel levels equal. from new the 90 degree elbow at each tank was made of steel. at about the 6 month period the steel elbows were cracking and sometimes breaking right off making a hell of a mess usually in the middle of no-where. being a farm kid i would plug the line and the elbow with something and get in for a proper fix somewhere. the fix was a brass fitting to absorb the vibration whereas the steel ones just cracked or broke off. the company being one of the bigger multi-national outfits didn't respond real quick and thought it was just a case of isolated occurrences till there were 2-3 trucks at a time with broken lines all over canada.
being the farm kid i always got in for the repair but it was a teamster union company and a lot of these guys just pulled over at the next anywhere and phoned in and said call me when its fixed. 2 guys per truck at 17-18$ an hour each plus the cost of the lost fuel and the mobile repair bill. just west of kamloops, 20-30 miles i had one go and plug it and into freightliner in kamloops. it was a messy one and i called dispatch told them the situation and said i was getting a room for a shower. dispatcher says the room was on my dime. i flipped. back to toronto meet with the manager got my money and everything from there on was call me when its fixed. a year or so later they go on strike again, i head to florida for a month or so, came home and bought my own truck and the rest is history.
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what i am getting at is, wouldn't the brass or the copper have similar characteristics to absorb the shock/vibration? just asking.
more thought, as with the trucks having a braided rubber line between tanks to absorb movement if the jump from the frame or firewall was a rubber line to do the same. fuel only, not brakes. asking again.
-- Edited by shag766 on Thursday 30th of January 2014 04:29:43 AM
Shag I have a feeling whatever freightliner was using was so thin and poorly made it would of failed were ever you used it . Without a better description I would have to guess that the failure occurred at the root of the tread or it was put together from two peaces and induction welded or solderd . Most brass fittings are made from billet bar or forged as are good steel ones and you would have need a 10 Lb sledge with a good swing to damage one. Surprising that they would use a ridged connection from tank to tank for the amount of frame flex there is in a rig.
Shag I have a feeling whatever freightliner was using was so thin and poorly made it would of failed were ever you used it . Without a better description I would have to guess that the failure occurred at the root of the tread or it was put together from two peaces and induction welded or solderd . Most brass fittings are made from billet bar or forged as are good steel ones and you would have need a 10 Lb sledge with a good swing to damage one. Surprising that they would use a ridged connection from tank to tank for the amount of frame flex there is in a rig.
they used a braided rubber line for the distance between tanks mounted to the bracket. the elbow's were into the bottom of the tanks with the braided line attached with a fitting to the fitting.
this is funny slim, when i read the part about the vibration i had a flash back to that incidence. it was the 70's, 2 wives and a brain aneurism ago. it just kicked in a flash back and i chirped about it. at this point i am glad i still get the odd flash back. there were no p!ss tests back then in the 70's. i agree with not using the copper. i used the plastic on the chevelle from the tank up and it was a treat actually. they are using plastic everywhere now. i had to run a water line to a tennant in my building and they used plastic for about a 50ft run through a wall, across a ceiling and back down in one pc. its allowed in a commercial app now. probably saved 2-3 hrs of labor time.
anyway i was just saying. thanks for the memory. lol lmao tky's rick
I,m new to the site and have been reading up on the posts. I came across yours where you used "rubber" hose for a fuel line. Rubber will work but use only hi-test gas with NO ETHANOL as ethanol will eat up rubber hoses. That is why most manufacturers have gone to Steel or plastic hoses. Gas pumps should have the Ethanol content posted by the octane rating.
51 styleline there is alcohol rated fuel line in rubber. We use it all the time and never have had a problem Ratings # is J1257 Type A1-16 designed for alcohol enhanced gasoline. Just Sayin
51 styleline there is alcohol rated fuel line in rubber. We use it all the time and never have had a problem Ratings # is J1257 Type A1-16 designed for alcohol enhanced gasoline. Just Sayin
I run a carb but use the 3/8" fuel injection rubber line purchased from Canadian Tire. Where can a person find alcohol rated fuel line (or is the stuff I buy already alcohol rated?).
Rubber fuel line just makes me nervous. Some years ago i had an engine fire on an engine with triples on it. The rubber hoses were a factor and since then i have never run rubber hoses. It,s not that hard to make your own steel fuel line even the ones used on the newer fuelie engines and they,re much safer.
Rubber fuel line just makes me nervous. Some years ago i had an engine fire on an engine with triples on it. The rubber hoses were a factor and since then i have never run rubber hoses. It,s not that hard to make your own steel fuel line even the ones used on the newer fuelie engines and they,re much safer.
The majority of the fuel lines on my car are steel. I did use two short lengths of rubber line on my car though (just like GM did in the 80's). One short section between the tank and the frame mounted steel line and the other between the frame mounted steel line and the fuel pump. Just wondering where I can buy alcohol rated rubber line so I can replace those two short sections.
Rubber fuel line just makes me nervous. Some years ago i had an engine fire on an engine with triples on it. The rubber hoses were a factor and since then i have never run rubber hoses. It,s not that hard to make your own steel fuel line even the ones used on the newer fuelie engines and they,re much safer.
The majority of the fuel lines on my car are steel. I did use two short lengths of rubber line on my car though (just like GM did in the 80's). One short section between the tank and the frame mounted steel line and the other between the frame mounted steel line and the fuel pump. Just wondering where I can buy alcohol rated rubber line so I can replace those two short sections.
Corn hole fuel has been out long enough that crappy tire or part source fuel line will be compliant seeing they don't like to be sued. If its labeled as fuel line it should be marked D O T approved . Unless you are running fuel injection pump in tank there is no pressure till the out side of the pump and even then most carb applications are under 10 psi .
SS braid will work it has a teflon core pricey and a pain to work with if you want swivel ends stop at any hydraulic fitting supply and they should have push lock connectors and hose good to 300 psi . or have them crimp the ends on too what you need or just use the right hose and hook it up the way its been done forever if its a standard carb set up fuel injection is a different story.
