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Post Info TOPIC: welding set\ up table


MISSISSAUGA, ONT

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welding set\ up table
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 So my uncle gave me a piece of 3/8's x 28 x 48 piece of steel to make a table out of

I have a 100 of 6 inch c channel  , 30 ft of 2x1 angle iron, 30 ft of 4x4 angle iron

40 ft of 1 1/4 tube .

Any good idea's of do's and don't's to build the table??



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 If you cant move it with a hammer

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info@mancavestuff.ca

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Make the top bigger.



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NORTH BAY, ONT

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Some sort of caster system to be able to move it if required instead of dislocating ones back?

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MISSISSAUGA, ONT

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Love to have a bigger top , but I only work in my garage.

It will be on wheels for sure ,



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 If you cant move it with a hammer

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ADMINISTRATOR

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Make sure they are lockable wheels

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S/W ONTARIO

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I made mine out of 1/2" thick 30"x60". When I welded the 2x2 angle to the under side the heat made the top warp a little .
I didn't put wheels on it but I did drill and tap a hole for a 1/2" eye bolt right in the middle so I can lift it with my engine hoist.
I screw the eye bolt in from the bottom when I don't need it.I thought that pretty good idea but then I bolted the vice to one end. Now it doesn't hang level.Nothing a little counterbalance can't handle.
TMJ

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NORTH BAY, ONT

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If i remember correctly possibly the "Miller" or "Hobart" sites had some very creative welding tables?
Another was called "The welders Network" or close to that. A whole topic was devoted to welding tables guys had built.

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NORTH BAY, ONT

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Joe, i found it.

weldingweb.com


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MISSISSAUGA, ONT

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Really cool site Thanks for posting



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 If you cant move it with a hammer

It must be an electrical problem

 



ST CATHARINES, ONT

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Make sure you put handles on it so we can load it into my truck......eh

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DUNDAS, ONT

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34guy wrote:

Really cool site Thanks for posting


 I think I found a new avatar on that site

 

 


88161n_18.jpeg



-- Edited by slim on Thursday 6th of March 2014 10:37:44 PM

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DORCHESTER, ONT

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There you go Slim, you just gotta draw a tooth on there and you're set!

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BRANTFORD, ONT

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All i can say Joe is

FOR SZHIT SAKE. DONT STICK WELD IT!



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ONTARIO

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To keep the table from rusting, paint the top Budweiser red and the legs Pepsi blue

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MISSISSAUGA, ONT

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I was going to bring it for paint to hemi's house ,but rumour has it he's out on a sleep over

Oh well maybe I can get glen to throw some 7018 s on it tomorrow .What he's on a sleepover too!!!!



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 If you cant move it with a hammer

It must be an electrical problem

 



FOXBORO, ONT

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i bought one some yrs ago at an auction up bancroft way. approx 5x4ft with vice attached and well made. it has troughs along the length sides welded on from the bottom that stick out about an 1.5" along each side, open each end. over the years they have saved many-many times of bending over to pick up small stuff ie; drill bits-screws etc off the floor.

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info@mancavestuff.ca

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Since your top is a little small, and you have lots of tube and angle, you might consider this

 

 

weldingtable.jpg

 

Don't paint it. That would be really stupid.



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MISSISSAUGA, ONT

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mancaver

that is a great idea the sliding part of course I would have to

put legs on there to stop it from tipping

great idea thanks joe

 



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 If you cant move it with a hammer

It must be an electrical problem

 



info@mancavestuff.ca

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And if you make that angle hinge up, you will have the makings of a makeshift/light duty/ 48" brake. You would just have to clamp or bolt a hold down on the table edge.

 

just another thought.

 



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FOXBORO, ONT

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34guy wrote:

mancaver

that is a great idea the sliding part of course I would have to

put legs on there to stop it from tipping

great idea thanks joe

 


 a thought, if the extension was attached with a piano hinge style and supported back to the main frame with a folding support rod it would take a fair bit of weight. when used it would be fairly flush on the surface. 1" box frame to bottom for top support. just thinking out loud.

seeing cavers idea started the thought process.



-- Edited by shag766 on Sunday 9th of March 2014 05:31:42 AM

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ETOBICOKE, ONT

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BRANTFORD, ONT

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Build it high enough that you don't get a sore back working for long periods - bellybutton height is very comfortable.

 

Leave a good lip around the edge so you can c-clamp stuff to the table

 

Build the framework then attach the top with good tacks only - continuous beads will distort the top.

 

Put casters on one end only and a crossbar low enough on the other end to get a floorjack under - use the floorjack to move it around.

 

WD40 on the top will prevent rust but still allow a good ground to the workpiece.



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info@mancavestuff.ca

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My table has a 4' x 5' steel plate top for hard fabrication. On top of that is a 4' x 8' x 3/4" high density poly top for softer fabrication. This is easily removable with 4 bolts. On top of the poly, I have carpeted foam tiles for super soft fabrication. These a 2' x 2' interlocking tiles which again are easily removable. So 3 different, interchangeable surfaces depending on what I'm doing.



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