Registering a hot rod in Ontario

poncho62 · ADMINISTRATOR

Registering a hot rod in Ontario

poncho62 · ADMINISTRATOR

Gazoo

BADEN, ONT

Status: Online

Posts: 1060

Date: 38m ago

I have no idea when a certified mechanic, became certified to determine whether a weld was good or not. Best of my knowledge, is if there is no holes in the frame/uni-body, floor etc...it should pass safety certification. There's many certified mechanics out there, that wouldn't be able to tell the difference between a Mig/Tig/stick or even gas weld.
Like Hemi said, there is a grey area there between a kit Car and using a VIN.

__________________

Wish it was done, so I could go cruizin'.

MANCAVER

info@mancavestuff.ca

Status: Online

Posts: 410

Date: 36m ago

hemi43 wrote:
Using a VIN from an original car is one of the reasons it's preferred over a car labeled as a "kit car".
That's what I mean. You basically have to lie. Doesn't the VIN usually follow the frame? The only thing on Glen's car that is from the original car is a part of the cab. Or is that a gray area also. Could you use the VIN from a car that you only used the headlights from?

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slim

DUNDAS, ONT

Status: Online

Posts: 1048

Date: 35m ago


If it registered as a 28 then it would need brakes and lights and tire's that hold air . I think the upgrades will far surpass whats required. I also think any custom work should be banned in Quebec and save the rest of us from the suffering of having to look at whatever it is they think is custom. __________________ What a long strange trip its been

fatstax

COBOURG, ONT

Status: Offline

Posts: 1672

Date: 30m ago

MANCAVER wrote:
hemi43 wrote:
Using a VIN from an original car is one of the reasons it's preferred over a car labeled as a "kit car".
That's what I mean. You basically have to lie. Doesn't the VIN usually follow the frame? The only thing on Glen's car that is from the original car is a part of the cab. Or is that a gray area also. Could you use the VIN from a car that you only used the headlights from?

I was also told by my mechanic that if you use a body with an affixed vin you have to use that as the registration for the vehicle, so you cant call it a kit car in the sense of you are using a ford or dodge or chevy cab or body.

slim

DUNDAS, ONT

Status: Online

Posts: 1048

Date: 25m ago

I


To register a kit car it has to be manufactured by a company . this is not a kit . to register it as homemade . you have to make the entire body and frame I think Nick (invision) is the only one here that comes close to this . that leaves the original make as the closest and most accurate description of the car . __________________ What a long strange trip its been

Gazoo

BADEN, ONT

Status: Online

Posts: 1060

Date: 24m ago

fatstax wrote:
MANCAVER wrote:
hemi43 wrote:
Using a VIN from an original car is one of the reasons it's preferred over a car labeled as a "kit car".
That's what I mean. You basically have to lie. Doesn't the VIN usually follow the frame? The only thing on Glen's car that is from the original car is a part of the cab. Or is that a gray area also. Could you use the VIN from a car that you only used the headlights from?
I was also told by my mechanic that if you use a body with an affixed vin you have to use that as the registration for the vehicle, so you cant call it a kit car in the sense of you are using a ford or dodge or chevy cab or body.

So where does a Pro-Street car fall, with a full tube frame?

fatstax

COBOURG, ONT

Status: Offline

Posts: 1672

Date: 13m ago

1

Gazoo wrote:
fatstax wrote:
MANCAVER wrote:
hemi43 wrote:
Using a VIN from an original car is one of the reasons it's preferred over a car labeled as a "kit car".
That's what I mean. You basically have to lie. Doesn't the VIN usually follow the frame? The only thing on Glen's car that is from the original car is a part of the cab. Or is that a gray area also. Could you use the VIN from a car that you only used the headlights from?
I was also told by my mechanic that if you use a body with an affixed vin you have to use that as the registration for the vehicle, so you cant call it a kit car in the sense of you are using a ford or dodge or chevy cab or body.
So where does a Pro-Street car fall, with a full tube frame?
We are railroading Glenn's build thread. Maybe start another thread.

actually funny you mention it, I know a guy who has a pretty much full dragster he drives around, or used to which is a 63 corvette as registered but has stickers for head lights and could do an 8 second quarter. I think he got pinched eventually due to the lack of the road worthy-ness of his dragster.

hemi43

ONTARIO

Status: Online

Posts: 3496

Date: 23m ago

RE: Rat Rod Build-a-thon....O to Driver in 2 1/2 months

Most of our cars fall into the "hot rod" category, because it is a modified vehicle from an original manufacturer. _____________

34guy · MISSISSAUGA, ONT

My frame is riveted on my 34 chev truck and my 27 ford and my 33 3 window and my 34 5 window

How ever will I get a safety for any of these cars??

Cat in the Hat · BRANTFORD, ONT

Joe

Stick weld the rivets

And find a mechanic that CWB Certified

That's what 1000s of hot rodders have done for years

Or better yet. Submit it for a CRASH TEST

if it passes then take it home and rebuild it

Your good to go!

What about body shops that quarter or half cars every day?

Anybody form a body shop want to jump in on that one?

BAJ · BRANTFORD, ONT

I wouldn't trust the work of some "certified" body shops. Even though the guys might have an auto body license, personal habits like alcohol and drugs get in the way. I have seen too many substandard patch jobs from certified bodymen over the years. I know it is safe when I build it. Stay the course Glenn, It will be 1000 times safer than the original Model A will ever be. How many people want the gas tank in their lap?

shag766 · FOXBORO, ONT

here is something i learned, back in febuary this yr for insurance renewal. i asked the question of what makes a car rodded just to see if maybe there was a saving somewhere. we went over each one separately.

"Most of our cars fall into the "hot rod" category, because it is a modified vehicle from an original manufacturer."
-
a brief example of what i got out of it,
my 69 coronet original 318ci has a hemi now and would not be considered rodded do to that engine was available and offered to the car in 69. i do pay the extra for rodded because of the headers and a couple of other things. if it was a stock set up no extra. i just found it interesting with the upgrade on the motor is allowed if it was available to that model in that year. the 5spd tranny and moser dana would be ok if the motor was the stock set up. you pay extra because of the value going up but not for power up.
-so, say a 64 biscayne 6cyl upped to a stock 409 set up, not rodded as it was offered to that model in that year.
this is the way i took it anyway. you should check if in doubt though.

MANCAVER · info@mancavestuff.ca

As far as I see, there is no VIN for Glen's build. I assume he is going to use the VIN from the car that the cab came off. In reality, the build has nothing to do with the original car, other than using a partial cab from it. Maybe the rear end came off it too, I don't know. I understand that this is what is done all the time. So my questions are:

1. Could you use a headlight off a car and then use that car's VIN for a scratch built car? It sounds like the answer would be yes because who would question it as long as you sign some kind of affidavit at the MTO office.

2: If you told the MTO and your insurance company that you built the car from scratch and you're using the VIN from a car that has little to do with your build, would they say OK, you're good to go?

3. Does this mean that any Joe can build a car and put it on the road as long as he can find a VIN and some drunk to certify it and basically lie about it's origin?

It seems like this is the way things are. Again, I am NOT commenting on Glen's build at all. Just using it as an example. He is obviously an experienced builder who's car will be safe on the road. But how many builders are there out there that aren't experienced but can do the same? Are there others who find this to be scary?

sasquatch · NORTH BAY, ONT

Interesting questions mancaver, but i doubt that they can be answered here.

fatstax · COBOURG, ONT

I would think that the vehicle for the most part has to resemble what you are calling it, for example you cant put a vin tag on a 90's s 10 cab from a 40's truck and call it a 40's truck. its would obviously still be a s 10. a head light is not enough of a car to identify it as what its suppose to be, theres no vin tag on a headlamp. you would not be lying about the truck since the cab is still from the truck in question and you have simply changed or modified the frame and other parts. now calling that project of glens a truck when it was a car originally I don't know what happens there since it was a car but is now a truck, it will be a passenger vehicle and have to have blue plate but since all trucks are considered commercial, as long as they have a box or cube or deck and have only two seats, he will have to have black plates. so if he registers it as the car that it was, he will get blue plates, if he drives it with those plates he will get pinched so that's another story.

Cat in the Hat · BRANTFORD, ONT

There are SEVERAL threads on here about what your asking

This same topic comes up every few months

It must be OLDTIMERS OR ALZHEIMER'S. kickin in

fatstax · COBOURG, ONT

34guy wrote:
My frame is riveted on my 34 chev truck and my 27 ford and my 33 3 window and my 34 5 window
How ever will I get a safety for any of these cars??

riveting is fine as tons of trucks are still built that way, it was a factory made frame that passed whatever standards it had to pass. welding a frame up is easier then bolting one together I would think

MANCAVER · info@mancavestuff.ca

Cat in the Hat wrote:
There are SEVERAL threads on here about what your asking

This same topic comes up every few months

It must be OLDTIMERS OR ALZHEIMER'S. kickin in

Ya Poncho, why did you start this redundant thread? biggrin

Cat in the Hat · BRANTFORD, ONT

Thats funny.

IF i license it as a truck with a 5000 GVW

I THEN HAVE TO GET YEARLY CERTIFICATIONS

AND RUN A LOG BOOK

F'd up id say

But thats been talked to death also

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

1 - If you built the car fabricating all the parts of the body and the frame it would be considered home built and the Dot would issue you a vin starting with .....HOM and then first letter of the month you where born. No one that is born in October should do this.

2 - The term VIN never existed till 1988 in the eyes of the law so we are talking about Serial numbers. None the less if the number was originally affixed to the vehicle that is the number they will use. Last i checked swapping body tags was a federal offence meaning Criminal record and possible time in jail and forfeit of the vehicle to the crown .There a lots of Opinions on this but if you need to buy a clue something that is considered Illegal should not be discussed on a public form .If you have documentation on where the components came from but a body with no number they will issue a new vin with the body make . you will need to meet the emission standard s for the year of the motor as long as it isn't OB2 compliant you will need to pass a 2 speed idle test for drive clean.

3 - The correct answer would be Yes. If you take this route you roll the dice and take your chances It may or may not ever come back to Bite you. Something like posting a picture of yourself naked on the net no matter how much time passes its out there and can be linked back to you if someone cares to look.

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

fatstax wrote:
34guy wrote:
My frame is riveted on my 34 chev truck and my 27 ford and my 33 3 window and my 34 5 window
How ever will I get a safety for any of these cars??
riveting is fine as tons of trucks are still built that way, it was a factory made frame that passed whatever standards it had to pass. welding a frame up is easier then bolting one together I would think

Anyone that has ever removed a rivet will tell you that even when you grind off the head you will need to knock the remaining part out using some force because it expands and fills the area in the hole. simple inserting a bolt would let the parts float.If you had to bolt it the only thing that would come close would be to clamp the pieces together and run a tap through them. not as effective but close.

Cat in the Hat · BRANTFORD, ONT

Now thats funny slim

BORN IN OCTOBER.

CAUGHT THAT!

Bob T · BRANTFORD, ONT

These type of threads can cause a lot of problems. I can almost guarantee this site is monitored and COULD create new rules and laws that make it even harder to get a hot rod registered or insured in Ontario. The way some of these questions and comments are worded should be a concern. Or maybe I'm just paranoid.

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

Bob T wrote:
These type of threads can cause a lot of problems. I can almost guarantee this site is monitored and COULD create new rules and laws that make it even harder to get a hot rod registered or insured in Ontario. The way some of these questions and comments are worded should be a concern. Or maybe I'm just paranoid.

Its not like this is some guarded secret. Its been common Knowledge for years don't kid yourself .We can change the way we do things our self or we can wait for someone to ram change down our throats . No matter . Change is coming and no one can stop it . cover your ass now not latter .

hemi43 · ONTARIO

Bob T wrote:
These type of threads can cause a lot of problems. I can almost guarantee this site is monitored and COULD create new rules and laws that make it even harder to get a hot rod registered or insured in Ontario. The way some of these questions and comments are worded should be a concern. Or maybe I'm just paranoid.

Yeah, you're paranoid !! biggrin biggrin biggrin I really hope that this site is monitored, because it shows that most of us are concerned about registering our rides properly and making them emission compliant. As far as someone registering their pieced together car with whatever VIN number, I don't think is a bit issue because we're dealing with cars that are 60+ years old. Legal or not, the Government is not stupid and they know what goes on in the car hobby, and their main concern is VIN swaps with newer vehicles that are stolen.

As far as Grump's car using the original serial number for the body, he's not going to have any problems even if he has turned it into a truck. They're not going to waste their time pursuing crap like this even if the law states he shouldn't do it. This is no different than emission BS we've been talking about for 2+ years. We know you can't run an emission engine in an older vehicle, but there's thousands of Guys out there that do. Not once have we heard of these Guys getting busted, unless the Guy got mouthy with the officer.

fatstax · COBOURG, ONT

i think its time to put on the tin foil hats there boys

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

fatstax wrote:
i think its time to put on the tin foil hats there boys

Thats ok the voice's are talking about you.

hemi43 · ONTARIO

fatstax wrote:
i think its time to put on the tin foil hats there boys

If you made a hat out of tin foil, you would need the whole friggin roll !! wink wink

fatstax · COBOURG, ONT

well duh hemi, the hat has to be extra thick to keep out the spy satellite signals.

34guy · MISSISSAUGA, ONT

fatstax wrote:
well duh hemi, the hat has to be extra thick to keep out the spy satellite signals.

ha ha ha ha ha ha ha

LMFAO

34guy · MISSISSAUGA, ONT

My model t fords 1926 1927 are regesterd

bt the serial numbers off the engine blocks

that is the correct way to do the model t's

The roadster pu and the touring car both

have flathead 60 hp engines in them now,

but I have both original engines tucled away

If ever questioned about the vin number

Both are rebuilt and running motors

Bob T · BRANTFORD, ONT

My tin hat [triple thickness] is securely fastened. L.O.L. I recognize there aren't many secrets to get a car registered but by rubbing their nose in it ,loopholes get closed and laws get changed. I.E. Quebecs B.S. law regarding frame modifications. That wouldn't be to popular in Ontario. Don't forget how we used to be able to put a car in our name without the 1 page appraisal. I know that got changed because of internet chatter. Anyho I hear a drone over the shop. Over and out.

fatstax · COBOURG, ONT

34guy, werent many older cars registered from the engine numbers? i do recall someone else telling me about this in regard to really old cars

fatstax · COBOURG, ONT

Bob T wrote:
My tin hat [triple thickness] is securely fastened. L.O.L. I recognize there aren't many secrets to get a car registered but by rubbing their nose in it ,loopholes get closed and laws get changed. I.E. Quebecs B.S. law regarding frame modifications. That wouldn't be to popular in Ontario. Don't forget how we used to be able to put a car in our name without the 1 page appraisal. I know that got changed because of internet chatter. Anyho I hear a drone over the shop. Over and out.

remember to not use the alcan glide foil, the one side is not reflective, i dont want to even think of what could happen.

DavidP · BRADFORD, ONT

The early 50's Cadillacs used the serial number stamped on the block ... at least in the case of my '54 ... and probably fairly common on the 50's GM cars ...

BAJ · BRANTFORD, ONT

My experience in the past with a '51 Thames panel that had the firewall cut out and no serial number.

I tried to get a number from the DOT, but ended up with a one hour conversation with a guy in their Kingston office. He informed me that the panel did not have a number so my only option was to scrap it. It's no longer a vehicle. He also told me that if you make any modifications from the factory (his example was putting a Camaro fender on a Mustang), you have changed the car from how it came out of the factory and your ownership in now null and void.

If this is the opinion of the DOT then I suggest we all scrap our cars.

I was so frustrated after talking to this guy, I sold the body hoping someone else would have better luck. Would you scrap a good '51 Thames body because it had no serial number?

It's important that we all must realize how important it is to not give big brother any excuses to end our hobby. Believe me, they will use any loophole to pass legislation to stop hot rodding in any form.

Fordy Acres Car Farm · DORCHESTER, ONT

And it's only become more fuzzy with the privatization of the Service Ontario kiosks. It seems each one has their own idea on what is the correct procedure. If there is a rule book, it seems not too many refer to it.

For a random example, both my Rancheros have blue car plates on them - it is vaguely a truck, but based on a car platform with no frame(uni-body). I've had people from all over Ontario ask me how I got the car plates and bitched about how they were stuck with black truck plates.

Your guess is as good as mine. It seems if you've hit a road block the answer might be as simple as taking it to the kiosk in the next town. Your issue might not be an issue there!

sasquatch · NORTH BAY, ONT

BAJ, figures! Years ago there was a Thames pannel running around this area "Plated".

fatstax · COBOURG, ONT

Fordy Acres Car Farm wrote:
And it's only become more fuzzy with the privatization of the Service Ontario kiosks. It seems each one has their own idea on what is the correct procedure. If there is a rule book, it seems not too many refer to it.

For a random example, both my Rancheros have blue car plates on them - it is vaguely a truck, but based on a car platform with no frame(uni-body). I've had people from all over Ontario ask me how I got the car plates and bitched about how they were stuck with black truck plates.

Your guess is as good as mine. It seems if you've hit a road block the answer might be as simple as taking it to the kiosk in the next town. Your issue might not be an issue there!

that is odd cause any el camino ive ever seen has had the black plates, I haven't seen any rancheros on the road that I can recall but im sure I have.

Bruce Rossiter · TORONTO, ONT

All Model A Fords from 1928 to 1931 were registered by using the stamped engine number as a serial number.

toomuchjunk · S/W ONTARIO

Fordy Acres Car Farm wrote:
And it's only become more fuzzy with the privatization of the Service Ontario kiosks. It seems each one has their own idea on what is the correct procedure. If there is a rule book, it seems not too many refer to it.

For a random example, both my Rancheros have blue car plates on them - it is vaguely a truck, but based on a car platform with no frame(uni-body). I've had people from all over Ontario ask me how I got the car plates and bitched about how they were stuck with black truck plates.

Your guess is as good as mine. It seems if you've hit a road block the answer might be as simple as taking it to the kiosk in the next town. Your issue might not be an issue there!

Mine has BLACK truck plates on it and the sticker on the front

TMJ

Fordy Acres Car Farm · DORCHESTER, ONT

See what I mean? Wishy washy, no set single answer - although the El Camino and Ranchero are a grey area, they should all be the same either way. I think that they should use the car plates based on the fact that they are made on a car platform. Also, they all have a pathetic payload capacity. Others will argue the other way - it has a bed, therefore it's a truck.

My full sized Bronco was another grey area. When I had my 1992, it had passenger car plates, but when I replaced the '92 with a '95 they wanted me to use commercial plates. So inconsistent! Same vehicle!

TIME TRAVELLER · NIAGARA REGION, ONT

sasquatch wrote:
BAJ, figures! Years ago there was a Thames pannel running around this area "Plated".

I remember that car, Olds 394 powered if I recall.

Boots · MISSISSAUGA, ONT

My 1960 Ranchero from Flint, Texas had ''Truck '' embossed on the plate. I believe Dent has it hanging in his garage. Regarding registering a vehicle, hopefully VIN checks don't happen soon as they are just starting to occur in many states and causing havoc with SEMA and individual state laws. Register your vehicle now with an assigned VIN before they bury us in paperwork. Good luck with your build and let's enjoy our rides as we may be the last generation to do so. Boots

Sacotu · COBOURG, ONT

talkin about serial numbers on different parts of the vehicle got me thinking about a 67 BSA chopper i had build. I had wanted to build a chopper and was nervous with regulation and such about trying to register the bike with a proper registration. I didn't want a registration like i had on a 1973 z1 kawasaki that i assembled from wrecking yard parts but was registered as a 1985 rebuild. it was interesting in that the frame was a factory replacement frame and didn't have a serial number stamped in it. now i lucked in because i had acquired 67 bsa rolling chassis with engine and they at that time used the engine as the serial number. not sure what year they changed probably early 70's but the bike was registered. i got a santee chopper frame from california with bill of sales but no serial, sold the rolling chassis with bill of sales and wah-lah legal 67 bsa chopper.

Boots · MISSISSAUGA, ONT

Still have my 1967 BSA Lightning chopper and the frame and cases have matching numbers. Took it apart when I got divorced in 1984 and there she sits. Maybe this year, as age passing me by and I probably only have a few kickstarts left in me. It is only going to get tougher as they mandate new laws and insurance restrictions on us. As I said before, let's enjoy the freedom we have now. Register that baby and drive it as much as you can........Boots

Gazoo · BADEN, ONT

It seems that most of you are not understanding the difference between SOLID and SAFE, so here's a few examples,

,

And this one,

,

Now having said this...you can look far and low, to find actual Ontario requirements, as to how low and how strong a frame can be. wink

For those of you with an engineering degree, the Tensile strength of Gr. A steel tubing is 45,000 lbs, Gr.B is 58,000lbs. Tensile strength is the braking point of pressure.

The Yield strength is 33,000 lbs for Gr.A, and 42,000 lbs for Gr.B. Yield strength is were the material starts to deform.

A bit more calculations here> http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/carcr.html.

OK, so now I move on to the frame height and impact zone (this is what you're all concerned about, isn't it?).

Well...I'm not going there (sorry to disappoint), but it would take me over 40hrs (and then some), to draw this all up in Catia, and let it generate the simulation for me.

You want to know what Catia is? http://www.inceptra.com/pages/catia.html.

Sooo, if you were making even a dozen or so of these beasts...

What are your odds to be in an accident? One in 30 million?

Make your own decision/calculation.

Bottom line is, they are cool/fun to drive, look at, etc...

My Loonies worth.

Fordy Acres Car Farm · DORCHESTER, ONT

Those videos have always impressed me, but where newer cars fall way short is in the ultra low speed fender bender and very high speed stuff. It's a trade off.

Old days at 5mph: chain the bumper to the tree and bang out or swap the fender and you're down the road sometimes for $0.00 - I've done it a few times in my younger day!

Nowadays at 5 mph: $1000s of dollars and often if the airbag goes off, it's a write off. Case in point: a teacher at a school I was working at had her Honda Civic backed into in the parking lot by another teacher. Nowhere near 5MPH, but just over $1400.00 in damage to 1/4, tail light, rear fascia and paint. Bad day for the other teacher. Both teachers I guess. I think the newest cars have a system in place to prevent the airbag from going off at lower speeds, potentially allowing the car to be fixed.

It seems that they're engineered to a particular speed range these days, beyond 80 to 100 kmh you're pretty much toast anyway. I'd take a fabricated tube chassis over crumple zones for higher speeds anyday. There is a reason they're used in NHRA and NASCAR rules - it doesn't ALWAYS prevent death but it's got to be safer at elevated speeds.

Bottom line: I guess the crumple zones are a good trade off for the masses, but it's a shame when a minor Deer hit becomes a write off and contributes greatly to our "Throw away society".

Gazoo · BADEN, ONT

Fordy Acres Car Farm wrote:
Those videos have always impressed me, but where newer cars fall way short is in the ultra low speed fender bender and very high speed stuff. It's a trade off.

Old days at 5mph: chain the bumper to the tree and bang out or swap the fender and you're down the road sometimes for $0.00 - I've done it a few times in my younger day!

Nowadays at 5 mph: $1000s of dollars and often if the airbag goes off, it's a write off. Case in point: a teacher at a school I was working at had her Honda Civic backed into in the parking lot by another teacher. Nowhere near 5MPH, but just over $1400.00 in damage to 1/4, tail light, rear fascia and paint. Bad day for the other teacher. Both teachers I guess. I think the newest cars have a system in place to prevent the airbag from going off at lower speeds, potentially allowing the car to be fixed.

It seems that they're engineered to a particular speed range these days, beyond 80 to 100 kmh you're pretty much toast anyway. I'd take a fabricated tube chassis over crumple zones for higher speeds anyday. There is a reason they're used in NHRA and NASCAR rules - it doesn't ALWAYS prevent death but it's got to be safer at elevated speeds.

Bottom line: I guess the crumple zones are a good trade off for the masses, but it's a shame when a minor Deer hit becomes a write off and contributes greatly to our "Throw away society".

Fordy, You're already screwed at a 50 mph collision! What makes you even think you'd be better off at a higher speed?

And what front end collision damage of any car could you replace (not doing the work yourself), for under $1,500. not including paint and labor.

The main question in this topic, has yet still to be answered... And I believe it's a safety concern.

I'm not concerned personally, 'cuz I'm building one, and I can't wait to drive it. But then again, I won't commute with it. So I'm really not all that concerned about my odds.

For arguments sakes...I would've been impressed with a car from the '60's/'70's or even '80's to run 300 k's, today it's really not that unusual. The bodies in the '60's/'70's/'80's,... you'd be lucky to get 7-8 years before rust through.

Just Sayin', depends where your priorities are, or what you are willing to over-look.

I personally have no issues, I'll build/ride them, and I love it, but for those who'd like to know, well... it's up to them to make an informed decision.

Fordy Acres Car Farm · DORCHESTER, ONT

Let's reverse engineer this puppy. How many cars built today will still be around in 80 -85 years like the Model A is now and how many of those will be made better with upgraded frames, suspension, brakes and -power plants- /drivetrains -Hotrodded? Too much plastic on these new cars that actually breakdown over time. They are using more and more plastic and foam to attempt to keep up with increasing crash standards and they do work when new, obviously. What happens in 20 or 30 years when all that plastics becomes brittle and the foam breaks down, even if you meticulously maintain the car, that plastic is compromised by age alone. Older cars are compromised by rust, but that's about it. The newer cars use this plastic, foam, crumple zones and airbags working together as a system. If one or more of the pieces of that puzzle fail.....????

I do agree about the increased mileage before the car is thrown away though. Technology has come so far that production tolerances and materials are so much better. BUT! You could rebuild way more stuff on older cars and not have to throw it away like today.

We could debate this stuff for hours and hours, but I'd like to sum it up like this:

New cars suck! ....but they're awesome!

Old cars are awesome....but they suck!

fatstax · COBOURG, ONT

ok I will break this down as easy as I can

hot rodding is as follows

build some sh!t box that goes fast

the more undriveable and impractical it is the better

whatever you can get away with, rock on

the mto, cops, gas prices and the Canadian tire custom section is your enemy

you are smarter then the MTO, cops and the MOE so flex your brainQ

reflect on the day you didn't die driving ur heap

Gazoo · BADEN, ONT

fatstax wrote:
ok I will break this down as easy as I can
hot rodding is as follows
build some sh!t box that goes fast
the more undriveable and impractical it is the better
whatever you can get away with, rock on
the mto, cops, gas prices and the Canadian tire custom section is your enemy
you are smarter then the MTO, cops and the MOE so flex your brainQ
reflect on the day you didn't die driving ur heap

Not anywhere near anyone's, want to do list.

fatstax · COBOURG, ONT

Gazoo wrote:
fatstax wrote:
ok I will break this down as easy as I can
hot rodding is as follows
build some sh!t box that goes fast
the more undriveable and impractical it is the better
whatever you can get away with, rock on
the mto, cops, gas prices and the Canadian tire custom section is your enemy
you are smarter then the MTO, cops and the MOE so flex your brainQ
reflect on the day you didn't die driving ur heap

Not anywhere near anyone's, want to do list.

so in other words you don't have any fun doing anything then?

watch this then tell me the secret of the universe

-- Edited by fatstax on Saturday 22nd of March 2014 09:52:49 PM

Gazoo · BADEN, ONT

Not xactly, but I mean, it's not on my wish list.

PS. You watch too many video's!

-- Edited by Gazoo on Saturday 22nd of March 2014 09:58:08 PM

fatstax · COBOURG, ONT

Gazoo wrote:
Not xactly, but I mean, it's not on my wish list.

PS. You watch too many video's!

-- Edited by Gazoo on Saturday 22nd of March 2014 09:58:08 PM

its never sharp enough

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flatblack55delivery · PORT HOPE, ONT

I see it this way. When I go to Armdrop drags just about every new vehicle there ,cars and trucks can probably get down the strip faster than me. Hell my daughters mini van is probably faster. My shop van is probably more comfortable,Radio,a/c,cupholders etc and probably safer,belts,air bags,crumple zones and stuff I don't even know about. But none of them can do what my 55 can. When I look out over those round fenders and hood thru that wraparound windshield and listen to the rumble of the motor nothing at that moment can whipe the smile off my face. Its a zone you get into weather you are racing or cruising that gets you away from the everyday and into another place and time. I suppose in reality newer cars are are better in so many ways but my old clunker is better in the only way that really counts, smiles per mile. Ed