Aluminum is crack checked with a dye kit. I have done lots of it with cyl heads etc. Eastwood used to sell a small dye kit. The part is sprayed with a cleaner, then a red dye penetrant and then a developer. The crack stands out like a Nun in a short skirt with fishnet stockings. You couldn't miss it. If you straighten it, it would be with one good hard smack or shock. If it didn't go then chuck it. Aluminum while 1/3 stronger then steel at the same weight has some funny characteristics. Having cast lot of it out of fun and curiosity that would be my suggestion. One good smack, dye check it. If it comes through good , if not make one up as suggested from steel. The Dye check kit for aluminum was not particularly expensive. $30 to $35 I think.
Don
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SR Dragster because old people need to have fun too!
I did not bend it and I did not straighten it. I was just seeking some knowledge on an expensive part that I did not want to throw away if it could be fixed. Got a lot of good talk on this thread and I learned from it. The part will now be re-classified as wall art.
To be honest, I think I asked the right guy. But I enjoyed all the other responses too!
As an afterthought, I'm thinking that the lower control arm has the pushrod connected to it and it does most of the grunt work. The upper basically maintains wheel camber and has less performance demands on it.