Any special techniques you use when you 1st 'Start Up' your car after a long winter slumber ?
One tip I read online ... probably from the H.A.M.B ... was to take a few minutes to dribble an ounce of fresh gas through the vent holes in the carburator prior to starting ...
Its worked really well for me the last few years ... having my car (1954 Cadillac) start up right away, as if it was parked the night before ... rather than 1/2 draining the battery to pump up enough gas from the tank to fill the bowl in the carb to get it running ...
It seems to take a lot of strain off the starter and electrical system on 1st Start Up ... and its pretty satisfying to hear it start up right away after all those months ...
Now on to all the usual 'stuff' ... making sure all the fluid levels are UP ... changing the oil ... everything I can think of before taking it out on the road for a new year ...
I do the same I take off breather fill carb through the vent tube.before doing that I usually crank engine over to let oil pressure build.then fill carb with a small funnel I made pull choke hit key fire it up let idle slowly push in choke as it warms up.
I actually prefer it to crank for a few seconds at first start up to allow oil into all the places it hasn't been all winter. Watching the guage after a car has been sitting for long periods, it shows that it takes a surprising amount of cranking before reaching full pressure - especially if it's chilly in your storage area and you're using "Summer" oil grades.
__________________
"If I could get back all the money I've ever spent on cars...I'd spend it ALL on cars !!!
I actually prefer it to crank for a few seconds at first start up to allow oil into all the places it hasn't been all winter. Watching the guage after a car has been sitting for long periods, it shows that it takes a surprising amount of cranking before reaching full pressure - especially if it's chilly in your storage area and you're using "Summer" oil grades.
I like to just sit in the seat for a couple min and have a little chat with her, thank her for all the great times we had last year, promise to be good and clean her up, a little fore-play to lube her up slowly and carefully slide her winter night-gown down off her Till I have her completely exposed and naked in front of me..
Then slowly and carefully open her up and remove her aspiration filter, and give her a wee sip of fresh nectar..gently roll her starter till she is ready and then after a little more gentle caressing and soft words in her ear..Made sure she had fresh oil in her before she was tucked in bed for those cold lonely winter nights.., Then get comfy and ease into her till we are down the lane and then we turn up the tunes and get it on...
I actually prefer it to crank for a few seconds at first start up to allow oil into all the places it hasn't been all winter. Watching the gauge after a car has been sitting for long periods, it shows that it takes a surprising amount of cranking before reaching full pressure - especially if it's chilly in your storage area and you're using "Summer" oil grades.
I should note that once I've got pressure from cranking and if it still doesn't start, I will help it along with a little sip of gas - No point in killing the battery or starter unnecessarily.
__________________
"If I could get back all the money I've ever spent on cars...I'd spend it ALL on cars !!!
I actually prefer it to crank for a few seconds at first start up to allow oil into all the places it hasn't been all winter. Watching the guage after a car has been sitting for long periods, it shows that it takes a surprising amount of cranking before reaching full pressure - especially if it's chilly in your storage area and you're using "Summer" oil grades.
I don't understand this at all.
By using the starter to turn the engine over to build oil pressure, you are still spinning the crank, rods, and cam in (what are potentially) dry bearings. If you aren't going to pre-oil the engine correctly (by bringing the oilling system up to full pressure with a pre-oiler that only spins the oil pump), I just don't see the point. I really don't see the benefit to cranking it without the chance of ignition.
What is a carb and choke that you're talking about?
I just turn the key !!
-- Edited by hemi43 on Thursday 3rd of April 2014 07:05:51 PM
ancient technology thank goodness Kettering invented electric starting saved a lot of people suffering from broken limbs.nowadays when people hear the word carb their first thought is a dietary term as to choke they assume that it is related to the Heimlich method.I also do not use the term carburetor as their first thought is that thing attached under their sink.there was a time when the term cranking the engine over to start was a given.fuel injection would have probably meant a visit to the doctors.pointless ignitions would have conjured thoughts of black magic.things now taken for granted by you young people was too buck rogers for us old goats
I actually prefer it to crank for a few seconds at first start up to allow oil into all the places it hasn't been all winter. Watching the guage after a car has been sitting for long periods, it shows that it takes a surprising amount of cranking before reaching full pressure - especially if it's chilly in your storage area and you're using "Summer" oil grades.
I don't understand this at all.
By using the starter to turn the engine over to build oil pressure, you are still spinning the crank, rods, and cam in (what are potentially) dry bearings. If you aren't going to pre-oil the engine correctly (by bringing the oilling system up to full pressure with a pre-oiler that only spins the oil pump), I just don't see the point. I really don't see the benefit to cranking it without the chance of ignition.
cranking the engine over does not expose the bearings or other parts to the severe pressures they endure while the engine is running.
I actually prefer it to crank for a few seconds at first start up to allow oil into all the places it hasn't been all winter. Watching the guage after a car has been sitting for long periods, it shows that it takes a surprising amount of cranking before reaching full pressure - especially if it's chilly in your storage area and you're using "Summer" oil grades.
I don't understand this at all.
By using the starter to turn the engine over to build oil pressure, you are still spinning the crank, rods, and cam in (what are potentially) dry bearings. If you aren't going to pre-oil the engine correctly (by bringing the oilling system up to full pressure with a pre-oiler that only spins the oil pump), I just don't see the point. I really don't see the benefit to cranking it without the chance of ignition.
cranking the engine over does not expose the bearings or other parts to the severe pressures they endure while the engine is running.
Not only are the pressures low from cranking, but the speed they are turning will be much slower too. There is still a film of oil there, trapped by the bearings, but it isn't all it could be. I don't think it's worth pulling the distributor out to spin the pump alone, only to have to re-time it afterwards. Even spinning the pump alone requires turning the crank, either by hand or off the starter to allow the oil to reach all the surfaces. That being said, I wouldn't prime a fresh engine build by cranking it off the starter!
__________________
"If I could get back all the money I've ever spent on cars...I'd spend it ALL on cars !!!
Engine is all over the garage floor, it'll be weeks yet till it's back together. Waiting on powder coating, Summit, NPD, sunshine and the energy to get busy. That's my sons car and mine won't be out till it's done.
I remember for years having to crank the engine over until the battery nearly died, now I just turn the key to the on position, electric fuel pump runs for a few seconds, kit the key and it's running. Sorry Dan but a properly tuned carbureted engine will run as well as FI, I just never run ethanol.
Sorry Dan but a properly tuned carbureted engine will run as well as FI, I just never run ethanol.
As well?? Never , but that could start a whole debate. The bonus of fuel injection with certain systems is the adjustability of your ignition timing. That alone is worth switching over.
I actually prefer it to crank for a few seconds at first start up to allow oil into all the places it hasn't been all winter. Watching the guage after a car has been sitting for long periods, it shows that it takes a surprising amount of cranking before reaching full pressure - especially if it's chilly in your storage area and you're using "Summer" oil grades.
I don't understand this at all.
By using the starter to turn the engine over to build oil pressure, you are still spinning the crank, rods, and cam in (what are potentially) dry bearings. If you aren't going to pre-oil the engine correctly (by bringing the oilling system up to full pressure with a pre-oiler that only spins the oil pump), I just don't see the point. I really don't see the benefit to cranking it without the chance of ignition.
cranking the engine over does not expose the bearings or other parts to the severe pressures they endure while the engine is running.
Not only are the pressures low from cranking, but the speed they are turning will be much slower too. There is still a film of oil there, trapped by the bearings, but it isn't all it could be. I don't think it's worth pulling the distributor out to spin the pump alone, only to have to re-time it afterwards. Even spinning the pump alone requires turning the crank, either by hand or off the starter to allow the oil to reach all the surfaces. That being said, I wouldn't prime a fresh engine build by cranking it off the starter!
I kinda thought that. I've never had a problem just firing stuff up after a winters rest. I understand what you guys are saying though, just don't see it as being an issue. If I was truly worried about dry bearings, I'd go the distance and pull the dist (I've already got a gutted dist on hand for when I fire up fresh engines). Just a difference of opinion is all . Cheers
I do just like most have already said. I turn the engine over (coil disconnected), to get some oil flow before firing it up.
Typically, most carburetored engines with mechanical fuel pump will require some fuel poured in the carburetor to get it running.
I do the same as a cold start in summer ,key on let the [electric]pump build pressure for a couple of seconds 2 pumps, crank an fire, warm up, the neigbours quarter mile away know when we go out for eary breakfast,,ha ha
I do just like most have already said. I turn the engine over (coil disconnected), to get some oil flow before firing it up. Typically, most carburetored engines with mechanical fuel pump will require some fuel poured in the carburetor to get it running.
If it cranks long enough to build oil pressure then you have cranked it long enough to fill a dry carb. Maybe its time for a new fuel pump if you have to go through all this malarkey to get the thing to prime.
Appears that I'm in the minority here with my failure to spin the engine over with the coil disconnected
Guess I can assume I won't have much luck selling a used engine that I've been using, to any members of this site
I don't disconnect the coil on first start up. Almost all my cars are carburated and I just crank it over 'til I get oil pressure. If it starts up, no big deal, but I don't help it out any by adding gas to the carb or pumping before/during cranking. Once I've got pressure, then I'll try pumping it and add a sip of gas as a last resort. I definitely don't think cranking it over is hurting anything on a used engine. I don't think you should need a bunch of tools and an afternoon to start up a car, but matbe that's just me. Been doing it this way for over 30 years with no drama - anyone else?
A new engine is a whole new ball game.
__________________
"If I could get back all the money I've ever spent on cars...I'd spend it ALL on cars !!!
with the choke tied open I just turn it over till it starts. That gives it lots of time to build oil pressure.
If the battery is starting to lose too much before it starts I give it a shot of WD40. Sounds crude but I've done it that way for years.
TMJ
I too, like to crank it over until I see oil pressure and the fire it warm it up for fifteen minutes or so and then change the oil and filter to keep out the moisture from the garage getting warm and cold ..............then drive the snot out of it!
I do just like most have already said. I turn the engine over (coil disconnected), to get some oil flow before firing it up. Typically, most carburetored engines with mechanical fuel pump will require some fuel poured in the carburetor to get it running.
If it cranks long enough to build oil pressure then you have cranked it long enough to fill a dry carb. Maybe its time for a new fuel pump if you have to go through all this malarkey to get the thing to prime.
Well the fuel pump is over 40yrs old. It's still the factory original.
I also prefer to fire it up with fresh gas. I don't need to turn it over much to get oil pressure.
You Guys really like over complicate stuff !! Our cars have been sitting for 4-5 months. Big deal !! Turn the key and drive em !! 4-5 years then it's worth discussing.
that seems rather incredible, 40 year old pump still working, how has it lasted so long?
It's not a Chevy.
It has 70,000 miles, and unlike people that just fire up their cars and go. I think a little bit of extra "fuzzing" and such goes a long way in preserving stuff.
Just like I dump the oil, every spring, I don't care if it only has 300 miles on it. You have condensation in the engine and once you fire it up, that condensation gets in the oil.
I had figured it was low miles but 40 years you would have thought the diaphragm would have dried out or at least failed from fatigue. I have some NOS fuel pumps in the hoard and some are brand new but so old the internals are too hard and have lost suppleness. interesting though.
Oh my!^^ Long winter Chuk? 
