I'm partial to Canon myself, I have an SLR and a regular digital camera. They both work great. I've had Nikon, Olympus, Minolta, Kodak, Fuji, etc...and I found the Canon the most reliable, due to the amount of pictures my wife takes. All the other cameras lasted just over a year, before the zoom lenses started to lock up, due to wear, the Canon more then tripled that.
But most digital cameras today, take amazing pictures.
-- Edited by Gazoo on Monday 7th of April 2014 04:38:24 PM
Anything I've owned that had the Canon name on it has failed, so that's definitely not the brand I would buy. Anything I've owned with the name SONY on it has never let me down. Maybe it's just a coincidence, who knows.
There are a few photographers out there. I was all Olympus from my old OM-10 film camera to the last two D-SLRs, but recently switched to Nikon on both the D-SLR and the point and shoot which you've seen, that I would highly recommend. Mine is a 3500S which is outstanding on the end of a stick! Expect to pay right around $100 for that model, but shop around and if you want some more details and direction feel free to PM me.
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"If I could get back all the money I've ever spent on cars...I'd spend it ALL on cars !!!
Did wedding pics for a few years. Used a Nikon film camera. Bought a Nikon digital for $2900 including 2 lenses. Now I got a Nikon point and shoot. As far as pics go it's just as good if not better than the big buck camera. Payed about $200 for it.easy to use and light. Only thing my wedding camera does better is close ups with the macro lens but that alone was $800 you don't need to pay big bucks for good shoots any more. Wife had a cannon and we also had a kodak. All cheap cameras and all great shots. Seen shoots from most bigger name cameras and they are all very good.
That's very cool..if you look at the pic I put for look what they are building that is from my mini iPad. Same for my challenge posts. Great little camera, great little computer all in one. And you can send your pics instantly to fatstax....
I should point out that cameras used to be all about the lens and how fast it was, and although the lens is still important, it's the digital processor that is the game changer now. The processor can compensate for a lot of lighting shortfalls that are out of your hands like in indoor car shows where most of the challenges are. Any of today's camera should be able to take a decent shot outdoors with lots of light.
In summary, I would say if you are doing head to head comparisons, I would weight heavily towards the one with the highest low light performance. You've seen what my tiny Nikon can do, but I'm sure Cannon, Olympus, Sony and others are great too. You're a smart guy and I'm sure you'll research before pulling the trigger. I on the other hand bought mine mostly on price, but lucked out on the performance anyway!!!
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"If I could get back all the money I've ever spent on cars...I'd spend it ALL on cars !!!
I should point out that cameras used to be all about the lens and how fast it was, and although the lens is still important, it's the digital processor that is the game changer now. The processor can compensate for a lot of lighting shortfalls that are out of your hands like in indoor car shows where most of the challenges are. Any of today's camera should be able to take a decent shot outdoors with lots of light.
Very true, but the quality of the glass is still of huge importance. For snapshots any $80 digi will suffice nowadays. Digi's with high quality lenses can do almost anything a DSLR can now, but not always. Sony/Zeiss combos are unbeatable for P&S's
If you catch a good range of exposure from a digital camera and the camera has a decent processor, you can manipulate the image as much, after the fact in post as you could when you took the actual picture. If you can get a camera with HDR capabilities, go for it. This is a feature that does automatic bracketing on your shot to give you a full range of exposure. Even if you are not into photoshop, an HDR image is really cool to look at.
When I went shopping a couple of years ago, I was set on a mid-range non-dsl camera. I ended up with the Olympus EPL-1. Shoots great pics and HD video.
I think they are up to epl-5 now. Its allows lens changes if you get more into it, but the base has been great for me so far. I have bought a couple other lens, but sold them off after a bit of use.
They run in the $300-$500 range, but if you catch them on sale they drop about $200. If you pick up the "old" model even cheaper.
I have been extremely happy with this camera and do not see me buying another any time soon.
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Tbucket build pics:Build Tbucket build pics continued: Build And even more: Build
My neighbour has a "Sony H50" that he's had for a while but never uses it. He's willing to sell it at a good price, but I'm a little reluctant because it's used, and I'm not sure if they're a good camera or not. I'm in no rush anyway.
I should point out that cameras used to be all about the lens and how fast it was, and although the lens is still important, it's the digital processor that is the game changer now. The processor can compensate for a lot of lighting shortfalls that are out of your hands like in indoor car shows where most of the challenges are. Any of today's camera should be able to take a decent shot outdoors with lots of light.
Very true, but the quality of the glass is still of huge importance. For snapshots any $80 digi will suffice nowadays. Digi's with high quality lenses can do almost anything a DSLR can now, but not always. Sony/Zeiss combos are unbeatable for P&S's
" Digi's with high quality lenses can do almost anything a DSLR can now, but not always. Sony/Zeiss combos are unbeatable for P&S's"
Most P&S cameras DON'T have the options of a DSLR on purpose. All these companies sell both examples, but don't add every bell and whistle to keep costs down on a point and shoot, but also to 'upsell' the more expensive DSLR to you to get that option that you are missing on the P&S.
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"If I could get back all the money I've ever spent on cars...I'd spend it ALL on cars !!!
My neighbour has a "Sony H50" that he's had for a while but never uses it. He's willing to sell it at a good price, but I'm a little reluctant because it's used, and I'm not sure if they're a good camera or not. I'm in no rush anyway.
The H50 is a fantastic camera for a non dslr. Big zoom is hard on batteries but that Ziess lens is worth it. Equiv of a 435mm or so. uses same batt as most other Sony point & shoots
My neighbour has a "Sony H50" that he's had for a while but never uses it. He's willing to sell it at a good price, but I'm a little reluctant because it's used, and I'm not sure if they're a good camera or not. I'm in no rush anyway.
The H50 is a fantastic camera for a non dslr. Big zoom is hard on batteries but that Ziess lens is worth it. Equiv of a 435mm or so. uses same batt as most other Sony point & shoots
It's not a very popular camera from what I'm finding. Have you ever used one?
I should point out that cameras used to be all about the lens and how fast it was, and although the lens is still important, it's the digital processor that is the game changer now. The processor can compensate for a lot of lighting shortfalls that are out of your hands like in indoor car shows where most of the challenges are. Any of today's camera should be able to take a decent shot outdoors with lots of light.
Very true, but the quality of the glass is still of huge importance. For snapshots any $80 digi will suffice nowadays. Digi's with high quality lenses can do almost anything a DSLR can now, but not always. Sony/Zeiss combos are unbeatable for P&S's
" Digi's with high quality lenses can do almost anything a DSLR can now, but not always. Sony/Zeiss combos are unbeatable for P&S's"
Most P&S cameras DON'T have the options of a DSLR on purpose. All these companies sell both examples, but don't add every bell and whistle to keep costs down on a point and shoot, but also to 'upsell' the more expensive DSLR to you to get that option that you are missing on the P&S.
Hey, Hemi, I think I still have one of those cameras in the yellow box ,you know the kind you take to Shoppers and leave the whole thing to be developed. Just not sure of the best before date. I'll check the top of the fridge at the shop if you want. Ed
Hey, Hemi, I think I still have one of those cameras in the yellow box ,you know the kind you take to Shoppers and leave the whole thing to be developed. Just not sure of the best before date. I'll check the top of the fridge at the shop if you want. Ed
Thanks Ed !! But how are you going to be able to get to the fridge?
My neighbour has a "Sony H50" that he's had for a while but never uses it. He's willing to sell it at a good price, but I'm a little reluctant because it's used, and I'm not sure if they're a good camera or not. I'm in no rush anyway.
The H50 is a fantastic camera for a non dslr. Big zoom is hard on batteries but that Ziess lens is worth it. Equiv of a 435mm or so. uses same batt as most other Sony point & shoots
It's not a very popular camera from what I'm finding. Have you ever used one?
A buddy of mine who is a sony die hard lent me his when I needed a backup. I was traveling light and didn't feel like lugging all my lenses or switching them out constantly. I admit I scoffed at it being a Nikon guy, but he insisted. He laughed at me and told me my Nikon likely had Sony guts inside So I took the challenge. I was totally surprised with that little camera could do aside from anything manual. It really doesn't surprise me seeing a Sony is the world's best electronics R&D company. They're the ones the world follow, camera companies not excluded except for maybe Canon
My neighbour has a "Sony H50" that he's had for a while but never uses it. He's willing to sell it at a good price, but I'm a little reluctant because it's used, and I'm not sure if they're a good camera or not. I'm in no rush anyway.
The H50 is a fantastic camera for a non dslr. Big zoom is hard on batteries but that Ziess lens is worth it. Equiv of a 435mm or so. uses same batt as most other Sony point & shoots
Too bad he doesn't like the Canon SX50 HS, it has 50X zoom lens for 1200mm, full HD, and ISO 6,400.
Don't fall to the high MP hype. Even 10mp is plenty. If you shoot raw or high mp jpeg you will not only fill your hard drive for no reason but also make your post processing cumbersome. High ISO is only needed in dim or indoor light. All new cams have excellent ISO capabilities now. Both lens size and aperture are where it's its important for indoor, handheld shots without a flash, though most cams new ISO capabilities can overcome most situs now. A kit lens will be more than adequate at outdoor shows.
-- Edited by Shop_Rat on Saturday 12th of April 2014 11:30:50 AM
The higher ISO numbers are very usefull when taking multiple shots of a Formula one car at full speed on a straighaway or a drag car at the finishline - lots of light is required, but most still work is better done at the lowest ISO on a tripod. It allows more time to gather the information needed for a very high resolution image. Any of these ratings you see on a camera are described as "Up to" 16.1 Mega Pixel - ever notice how the size of your pictures is different from frame to frame? ...even though the settings on the camera were the same?
One other point I'd like to make is regarding memory cards. On higher end cameras there is a built in memory that is like a buffer - it allows the user to hold down the shutter and click off a few dozen photos in seconds. There is no way the memory card can write the information fast enough so it stores it in the camera until the card catches up, kind of like "short term memory". Most of the smaller cheaper cameras don't have this feature, so you need to buy a high perfomance card with a fast write speed, measured in Mb/sec. The read speed is not really important, but they usually go hand in hand. I've heard many people complain about how slow and unresponsive their camera is, and I ask to see the memory card - it's usually a dollar store card
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"If I could get back all the money I've ever spent on cars...I'd spend it ALL on cars !!!
Good point on the memory card. I realize now the ISO number is speed, because I rber that from the old film days. What determines how low of light will still give an adequate picture? Isn't that F rating on lens?