Just for ****s and giggles I attempted to weld a crappy tire vise that I had snapped an it seems to be holding. I tried to weld the cast iron foot lever on my shear, (apparently 16 guage is too heavy, who knew) with no luck whatsoever.
Im pretty sure the vise wont last but so far so good, 1 year and counting. My question is, is it possible to get a reliable weld on cast iron with a MIG?
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The axle tubes that go into a cast iron center section are plug welded in place (think GM 10 and 12 bolt). I remember hearing the weld itself is stainless. I've never looked into it but I wonder if you can even buy stainless mig wire.
What is "missal rod" (pretty sure that's for stick welding but what material is "missal?").
I've toyed with the idea of removing the axles tubes from an 8.5 ten bolt and pressing in shorter axle tubes from an 8.2 but the welding of the cast to steel has me bothered a bit. Anyone want to share tips on the correct way to weld cast? (mig, arc, tig, whatever)
What is "missal rod" (pretty sure that's for stick welding but what material is "missal?"). Just a high nickel content, yes it is a stick, that's what they called it at the shop I was at.
I would try to get your hands on some "72 Cast Iron Weld" rods from Muggy Weld. http://muggyweld.com/cast-iron-welding-rods follow their directions for prep, pre heating and slow cooling.
On non- structural parts like exhaust manifolds, I have done two driver side cast iron exhaust manifolds that split radially between the first 2 and last 2 cylinders by brazing after prepping and preheating and bolting it onto an old scrap head. One I did recently, but the other is on it's 10th year as I welded it in 2004 just before the Hot Rod Power Tour!
The "72 Cast" rods will allow you to weld your axle tubes to the housing with no trouble too and is machinable.
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Like Slim said, high nickel rod. I avoid welding cast like the plague, but if I have to, I heat the part to let it expand and use inconel 82 filler rod. If the part cracks when cooling, I scrap it. Another safer way to fix a casting is to braze it . Cast aluminum on the other hand is very easy to repair, as long as the material is clean and has no zinc in it.
i had to repair a big water pump casing where i work since it froze and broke the bottom of the housing, i spent hours heating the whole thing up and welded it using Softweld 99Ni, a pretty pricey rod meant for welding cast. it seemed to work pretty good and didnt leak
Got a very nice old cast iron garden seat. All fancy . Looks like grape vines. Anyways guy says I can have it for scrap. I bring it home and wife loves it and wants it fixed. Got the mig out and welded it up. Didn't look at the settings but I was welding 18 g. sheet metal before that. Started on one spot and kept on going. Didn't start and stop. Sitting out back for almost 2years now. We used it for the first year as a seat now we got about a 40 lb flower pot on it. I most likely got lucky with the welds because I can't weld worth a crap but it's still holding......
There is a weld I use for stick that contains copper. It is for welding cast iron to steel in so called dirty conditions. I haven't bought any in a long time but it is Blue in its flux coating. Welds very well and machines nicely. I bought it several times at my Miller dealer. Have even used to to fix cylinder heads (busted valve cover seating rail on a set of very rare heads) Once cleaned up I cant even see it. Dumb thing is I cant remember what dealer it was by name , just where they are. I am thinking Praxair but may be wrong. Anyway it is blue. In Belleville across from Brafasco. Same place I bought my Scratch tig set up for my Miller AC/DC. Now there is a device everyone should have. Less then $200 and for Steel works perfectly.
don
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