Slip yoke rust clean up

Newagerod · OSHAWA, ONT

Slip yoke rust clean up

hemi43 · ONTARIO

If you must use it, remove the rust chemically so no metal is removed, then polish the surface with 400 grit in a lathe.

Newagerod · OSHAWA, ONT

What should I use? Suggestions?

DB Cooper · ONTARIO

Google molasses bath for rust removal.

hemi43 · ONTARIO

Molasses works, but it's slow as molasses.(sorry, I stole that joke from someone here)
Anything acidic will work. If you want it done quick, use muriatic acid, but do it outside because the fumes will attack anything made of metal. Vinegar will work too but will take longer.

58Chev · ETOBICOKE, ONT

7% Pickling Vinegar
10% Cleaning Vinegar both found in your local grocer.

Citric Acid will also clean it up but a bit slower.

As Hemi said fastest is Muriatic Acid or you could try to find a toilet bowl cleaner with a high % of hydrochloric acid

Home Hardware sells a potent one with 23%, they also sell muriatic acid

Gazoo · BADEN, ONT

Or get some Evaporust at CTC, it works good and reasonably fast. It won't remove any of the base metal.
But you will still need to polish it once the rust is removed. It looks like you might have a few deep pits in it.

Don't leave it in the solution overnight. You're better off dipping it, and checking on it regularly, every couple hours.

DaveM · ONTARIO

I've used Metal Rescue with good results. Just let it soak.

54vicky · OAKVILLE, ONT

you could fill the pits after with JB weld sand with emory cloth in gradually finer grit then polish with scotch brite if you have battery charge you could use with washing soda in tub with anode works very well dont need high amp charger I have used 2 amp and 10 more is better to a point

-- Edited by 54vicky on Wednesday 16th of April 2014 09:04:29 PM

hemi43 · ONTARIO

JB weld on a bearing and sealing surface? I don't think that would be very wise !

54vicky · OAKVILLE, ONT

the output shaft on tranny does not have bearing where yoke slides in but you do need smooth surface on yoke if done right it works no leak from tail stock seal.if money was no object you could have a machine shop make a stainless sleeve similar to crank snout sleeve

JohnnyBgood · ST CATHARINES, ONT

Hit it with a big Fn hammer and knock the rust off....

hemi43 · ONTARIO

54vicky wrote:
the output shaft on tranny does not have bearing where yoke slides in but you do need smooth surface on yoke if done right it works no leak from tail stock seal.if money was no object you could have a machine shop make a stainless sleeve similar to crank snout sleeve

A yoke does in fact run on a bearing surface. A bushing to be exact. The seal wouldn't last too long if the yoke wasn't supported .

Bruce Rossiter · TORONTO, ONT

54vicky wrote:
the output shaft on tranny does not have bearing where yoke slides in

It does have a bearing where the yoke slides into the tailshaft housing.

hemi43 · ONTARIO

JohnnyBgood wrote:
Hit it with a big Fn hammer and knock the rust off....

I thought that only worked on skunks?

saefifty · PORT PERRY, ONT

Glass bead it then polish it in the lathe.If its pitted its junk. Or at that point fill the pits and have it chromed like a crank journal or hydraulic ram shaft..

fatstax · COBOURG, ONT

ive encountered things like this before, I restored a sealing surface like that by machining it down and pressing on a sleeve to restore the surface. it is important as the slip yoke also rides in a bushing to keep it aligned not just sealed

54vicky · OAKVILLE, ONT

what I was trying to say that it did not have a bearing per se I know it has a bushing for support what I was talking more about where the seal area contacts it.if it was that badly pitted that it would tear up bushing then as I said then I would have it machined and sleeved.a simple job for a machine shop.that is problem not seeing it up close and offering advise over internet.lets hope it works out for him

DB Cooper · ONTARIO

Yeah, keep us posted on this. I'm interested to see if this thing ends up being usable.

Newagerod · OSHAWA, ONT

I've got it in some Evaporust, so I'll see how it turns out. You don't get much in a bottle tho

54vicky · OAKVILLE, ONT

to help try cleaning worst of rust with wire wheel or wire brush.that would let evaporust work on remaining rust another thing is to clean any grease with varsol or mineral spirits as any rust removal solution you use will not work where the grease remains.the washing soda method I suggested works without dangerous fumes and no embrittlement problems.if you like I will post what you need if you like.or search rust removal

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

54vicky wrote:
to help try cleaning worst of rust with wire wheel or wire brush.that would let evaporust work on remaining rust another thing is to clean any grease with varsol or mineral spirits as any rust removal solution you use will not work where the grease remains.the washing soda method I suggested works without dangerous fumes and no embrittlement problems.if you like I will post what you need if you like.or search rust removal

The bubbles coming off using electrolysis are hydrogen gas and are flammable. I never worry about a low amp source but if you hook it to something big like a dc welder do it outside.

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

You never said why this part is so hard to get a new one Without any information about its impossible to tell .

Driveline Components Catalog Slip Yoke Assemblies

54vicky · OAKVILLE, ONT

slim wrote:
54vicky wrote:
to help try cleaning worst of rust with wire wheel or wire brush.that would let evaporust work on remaining rust another thing is to clean any grease with varsol or mineral spirits as any rust removal solution you use will not work where the grease remains.the washing soda method I suggested works without dangerous fumes and no embrittlement problems.if you like I will post what you need if you like.or search rust removal
The bubbles coming off using electrolysis are hydrogen gas and are flammable. I never worry about a low amp source but if you hook it to something big like a dc welder do it outside.

do a search on use of anode I said no benefit to higher amps 2-10 is enough.if you do it using proper anode NO hydrogen gas.read up on it.I tried 50 amps with no better or faster results generally.been doing it for years results speak for themselves.if you research it will explain when hydrogen gas comes into play

54vicky · OAKVILLE, ONT

54vicky wrote:
slim wrote:
54vicky wrote:
to help try cleaning worst of rust with wire wheel or wire brush.that would let evaporust work on remaining rust another thing is to clean any grease with varsol or mineral spirits as any rust removal solution you use will not work where the grease remains.the washing soda method I suggested works without dangerous fumes and no embrittlement problems.if you like I will post what you need if you like.or search rust removal
The bubbles coming off using electrolysis are hydrogen gas and are flammable. I never worry about a low amp source but if you hook it to something big like a dc welder do it outside.
do a search on use of anode I said no benefit to higher amps 2-10 is enough.if you do it using proper anode NO hydrogen gas.read up on it.I tried 50 amps with no better or faster results generally.been doing it for years results speak for themselves.if you research it will explain when hydrogen gas comes into play should have added key words reverse electrolysis

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

Most people just trying this are going to grab a couple rusted bits of steel some washing soda and hook it to whatever dc power supply they can get their hands on. Epic fails normally happen at this stage of the game. I have also had decent results using this for years . Just throwing out a word of caution because its not a lot of fun if your heads on fire biggrin

hemi43 · ONTARIO

And yet another simple task beaten to death !! Just soak it in acid and be done with it. I would have had the part back on the car already.

54vicky · OAKVILLE, ONT

slim wrote:
Most people just trying this are going to grab a couple rusted bits of steel some washing soda and hook it to whatever dc power supply they can get their hands on. Epic fails normally happen at this stage of the game. I have also had decent results using this for years . Just throwing out a word of caution because its not a lot of fun if your heads on fire

no problem thats why I said do a search or I would post for him.I did not want to scare people from trying it when you said about hydrogen gas thats all.I know what you mean what some would try thats why I said small low amp charger.typical reaction of most I agree if a little works a lot has to be better and faster same thing with acid they try in the house or garage then wonder why in the world every thing is taking on a patina it did not have earlier.burning eyes and trouble breathing when near it or they put in a metal container.I am glad you tried it done PROPERLY it is cheap and safe way to save money on a difficult problem..big BUT they need to read about proper anode use.acid is another thing they should read up on hydrogen enbrittlement etc.have a good long weekend

Newagerod · OSHAWA, ONT

It's for a w58 toyota transmission, it's a 21 spline slip yoke, you can't buy it new anywhere and used its impossible to fine. I cleaned it up, but it was pointless because it doesn't fit. So I sold the engine and transmission (sold fast I was surprised) and now I'm going with a different ending.

-- Edited by Newagerod on Friday 18th of April 2014 08:57:38 PM